Rubbing out a finish

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JohnsonMBrandon

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Brandon Johnson
I have a table top that i need to rub out to make it nice and smooth and get rid of dust specs in the finish. I think I can rub it out with 0000 steel wool. The steel wool leaves to dull of a finish though. Should I wax it out after or do you guys have any other suggestions. It think if I use wax refinishing is a real pain. Any suggestions are appreciated. I am up for anything.
 

DaveO

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DaveO
To start what kind of a finish are you using? What I have done to get rid of the dust specks and subtle brush marks is to rub it out with 0000 steel wool and then apply a final wipe-on coat of whatever finish you are using after making sure you shop is really clean or in another room. Rubbing out a finish to maintain a high gloss is going to take much finer "grit" than 0000 steel wool. You need to get into automotive polishing compounds, rotten stone and things like that. Waxing your finish to improve sheen shouldn't cause great problems with refinishing later as the thin wax coat can be removed well with MS, it's silicon that is the PITA. Also depending on your finish a coat or two of spray lacquer dries very quick and can be done very dust free.
My.02, Dave:)
 

JohnsonMBrandon

New User
Brandon Johnson
Dave O,

I have done as you described with the finsih. The final coat is waterlox gloss. for some reason it specks up. Even after rubbing out and wiping on a final coat. I even took it in the house to wipe on the final coat. At this point I just need to rub it out, and it sounds like maybe micromesh it or something like that.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
BTDT, Waterlox is great but it takes a very long time to dry, hence picking up airborne dust. I have not tried it, but have read about using brown paper grocery bag paper to remove the dust nibs and not de-gloss the shine. Or like I said some pumice, rotton stone or other polishing compound will buff it back to high gloss. If micromesh is fine enough it would work also. I think that you can top coat Waterlox with Lacquer, so that might be a way to go also, but that will defeat the benefits of the easy of re-newing the Waterlox finish. Maybe some other folks will chime in with some advice now that I moved this to the Finishing forum.
Dave:)
 

JohnsonMBrandon

New User
Brandon Johnson
I had no problems with waterlox original at all. I am guessing the consistency of the gloss had something to do with it. I will giv ethat stuff a shot and see how it works out.
 

J. Fred Muggs

New User
Fred Ray
Here's my method - it don't get much easier. For use on lacquers, poylurethanes, shellacs, water based polys and lacquers, etc. I wouldn't use it on penetrating oil type finishes.

Get yourself some Abralon abrasive pads lots of folks sell them, they're made by Mirka abrasives. They come in 360, 500, 1000, 2000, and 4000, grit. They come as 6" hook and loop disks for use on your ROS. Go to the BORG and pick up a spray bottle of Orange Glo furniture cleaner and polish. Spritz the orange glo on the surface you're rubbing out. I start with the 500 grit Abralon on the sander and hae at it. Keep the surface wet, but not all runny drippy with the orange glo. All you need is one good going over with each grit of the Abralon. Wipe down the surface between grits and rewet with OG. I've not found a simpler faster method. After the 4000, you'll have a mirror like finish.

The Abralon will las for quite a while if you keep it from getting contaminated. I store mine after the first use in ziploc bags - each grit separately.

Here's one site that sells a box of 5 disks - one of each grit - for $18.25. You might find them cheaper, but about $4 -$5 each is typical.

http://www.woodworkersshop.com/Abralon_Sanding_System.htm

I know that Highland Hardware carries them in a 2" disk also for rubbing out smaller stuff or irregular shapes like turned bowls etc.;-)
 
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