Router Table

[Luckbox72]

I am planning to build a mobile router table with drawers. I was looking around today in Home Depot and came across a some 36" x 80" x 1-3/8" Solid Core Doors for $55 and was thinking I could get one cut it in half and use it for the router top and for a good solid base of the cabinet to attach casters to. I could cut a nice hard wood border for around the top. Has anyone done this? I was thinking of cutting the opening closer to one side so I could possibly attach an Incra router fence, and adding a couple t racks on the top and possibly a t track in the vertical face of the table. I was also wondering how well will the veneer of the door hold up as a router table top.

 

[Canuck]

That would probably work fine for a base and top, but personally I think that it is a little expensive.

You could laminate a couple of pieces of 3/4" plywood for a base. Then laminate two pieces of 3/4" MDF, add some formica and edge banding to the top and you will have a nice flat and durable RT top.

I made my drill press table using this method, and remains solid and flat.

The veneer on a solid core door may not take as much abuse as a Formica top.

If you do decide to for the solid core door router, check Craigslist regularly for used ones and save a bunch.

Just my $0.02 worth.

Good thought though!:icon_thum:icon_thum

Wayne

 

[Gotcha6]

Most solid core doors sold today are particle board core. Keep that in mind if you cut it. The exterior edges are seldom more than 1" thick and the veneer is butterfly wing thick over MDF that's ~1/16". Not saying it can't be done. but you're probably better off with a nice piece of BB plywood that can be laminated together for an 1 -1/2" thick top with a cutout below for your router and a dado for your miter fence.
JMTCW

 

[Glennbear]

Most solid core doors sold today are particle board core. Keep that in mind if you cut it. The exterior edges are seldom more than 1" thick and the veneer is butterfly wing thick over MDF that's ~1/16". Not saying it can't be done. but you're probably better off with a nice piece of BB plywood that can be laminated together for an 1 -1/2" thick top with a cutout below for your router and a dado for your miter fence.
JMTCW

I used solid core doors to make tops for two of my benches and I can vouch for everything Dennis says. I can see where attempting to route out a countersunk opening for a router plate would be VERY problematic. :confused_

 

[merrill77]

IMO, you want your top nice and smooth to reduce friction during routing operations...the wood surface probably won't be nearly as slick as laminate. If I was going to spend $55, I'd buy some high-grade stable plywood and cover it with laminate.

That said, my router table (and bandsaw table) are made from a laminated particle-board desk I saved from a dumpster. I added oak trim to cover/protect the raw laminate edges. Works great! Saved both time and money.

 

[Bigdog72]

I built my Norm (old style) router table using a solid core door. Mine is covered with hardboard. I built the table 13-14 years ago and the top has remained flat and I keep it waxed. If I remember correctly, it was easy to cut the hole out for the router. The BORGS usually have an area where they keep damaged inventory and you can find a SC door with a damaged corner or edge for a discounted price. That's how I bought the one I used for my work bench :icon_cheers

 

[Luckbox72]

Thanks for the info. I have been watching craigslist for a while and nothing really has caught my eye. I might try Habitat for Humanity and see what they have, might even pick up some used cabinet for under the table. I am in no rush so I can look around for some other options.

 

[gator]

I made my router table from the wing of an old desk I got from dumpster diving. I raised the legs on one end and added legs on the other. I enclosed the knee hole for a DC plenum. I added a switched outlet on the front where I ran the router cord to and then connected the outlet to a cord for the wall outlet. I can turn the router on/off with the switch and unplug the router there to change bits. I can even use the outlet for other tools if need be. The desk wing even gave me three drawers for storage. Between the desk wing and scrap for the fence, I have, maybe, $20 tied up in costs.

View image in gallery

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View image in gallery​

I ran a 4" outlet from the plenum for under table DC and a small outlet from the fence tee'd in to the 4".

My fence pivots on one end so I don't have to move both sides to adjust. I just set the distance to the bit and clamp the other end. I have multiple pivot holes around the top so I can get a wide range of distance adjustments.

GO GATORS!!!!!

George

 

[Wolfpacker]

Look around and see if you have any cabinet shops near you. I have gotten some nice size pieces of laminated wood/particle board from one in my area. I check back with them periodically and pick up scraps that I can use for my "tinkering" projects.

Brent

 

[BrianInChatham]

Would a solid surface material such as Corian be a good choice? When I put granite in my kitchen I saved the old Corian countertops with worktable surfaces in mind, but haven't seen this done before so wonder if it's a bad idea for some reason.

If it's a viable idea and you happen to know someone with a granite shop or who installs countertops you might be able to pick some up for next to nothing- I asked my neighbor who has a granite shop and he said they often just throw the old solid surface stuff out.