Router Lift?

[AnotherJim]

I've been told this is way in the weeds, but I've pretty much settled on everything else. With no experience, I'm unlikely to notice small imperfections for a long time, I know. I'm intending to buy a Sawstop PCS with a router table on the right side. The router lift: a Sawstop, an Incra MasterLift II, a What? Those two are highly rated, slightly different in operation. Any problems with either?

 

[JimD]

Comments from another Jim. I have a Sawstop PCS and like it a lot. But I did not put a router on it because I tried that with my previous table saw and I did not like it. I could be better organized but I found it aggrevating to be switching back and forth between the saw and the router table seemingly all the time. If you are really space challenged or have done this before and it worked for you, ignore my comment. But if this is your first time with this setup, I recommend you reconsider the router table part of this.

My recommendation always is that you make a router table, instead of buying it. Mine is sized and arranged like Norm Abrams from New Yankee Workshop. Router in the middle, drawers for bits on both sides of the router and another large drawer below the router compartment. I built a lift into the table based upon plans from an old American Woodworker article. It uses two machined steel bars, 1 inch diameter, supported by the 3/4 inch plywood back of the router table. The router is on a carriage that slides on these bars using oilite bearings. I piece of 5/16 all thread raises and lowers the router and carriage. 1 revolution raises or lowers by 1 inch. The top of the router table tilts up for bit changes. I think my router table is better than any commercial unit I have seem and it costs a lot less.

If you want to try having a router table setup in your accessory table before you buy a bunch of stuff, you could easily do it. Just route out the under side of the accessory table to get it down under 1/2 inch thick in the shape of a router base for one of your routers. Bolt the base to the accessory table, drill a hole for the bit to come through and either put an extension on the table saw rip fence for the router or make a separate fence with slots and secured to the accessory table by knobs going into t-nuts in the table through the fence slots. Minimal cost and would tell you if you really like that arrangement. You could still add a lift if it works for you.

 

[Martin Roper]

Here is a nice review of the INCRA Mast-R-lift II:

 

[AnotherJim]

Comments from another Jim. I have a Sawstop PCS and like it a lot. But I did not put a router on it because I tried that with my previous table saw and I did not like it. I could be better organized but I found it aggrevating to be switching back and forth between the saw and the router table seemingly all the time. If you are really space challenged or have done this before and it worked for you, ignore my comment. But if this is your first time with this setup, I recommend you reconsider the router table part of this.

My recommendation always is that you make a router table, instead of buying it. Mine is sized and arranged like Norm Abrams from New Yankee Workshop. Router in the middle, drawers for bits on both sides of the router and another large drawer below the router compartment. I built a lift into the table based upon plans from an old American Woodworker article. It uses two machined steel bars, 1 inch diameter, supported by the 3/4 inch plywood back of the router table. The router is on a carriage that slides on these bars using oilite bearings. I piece of 5/16 all thread raises and lowers the router and carriage. 1 revolution raises or lowers by 1 inch. The top of the router table tilts up for bit changes. I think my router table is better than any commercial unit I have seem and it costs a lot less.

If you want to try having a router table setup in your accessory table before you buy a bunch of stuff, you could easily do it. Just route out the under side of the accessory table to get it down under 1/2 inch thick in the shape of a router base for one of your routers. Bolt the base to the accessory table, drill a hole for the bit to come through and either put an extension on the table saw rip fence for the router or make a separate fence with slots and secured to the accessory table by knobs going into t-nuts in the table through the fence slots. Minimal cost and would tell you if you really like that arrangement. You could still add a lift if it works for you.

Thank you; I'm convinced to not put a router table onto the saw. I'll try one of the alternatives you suggest; likely a good learning project. Makes me feel a tiny bit virtuous, too, being less ambitious at the start.

 

[AnotherJim]

Here is a nice review of the INCRA Mast-R-lift II:

Thanks.

 

[tvrgeek]

I use a Triton router as it is sort of a lift in it's self. In a SS iron top which I like, but mine is mounted on the left outfeed side, not as a wing. Everyone's shop layout is different. My saw is against the right wall. I wish the power switch did not block the lift full height as it is a slight pain to either reach under and turn the switch off or push the plunger by hand. ( Plugged into a magnetic switch)

There are lots of lift reviews. Ones that the user actually used the lift that is, not the ones that give ratings based on add copy.

PCS is an excellent choice. I almost did myself, but went Harvey. I am more set in my ways and comfortable with my sleds, blocks and what cuts are the most dangerous, so a riving knife was my top priority. I now use my band saw more for some things that made me nervous on the table saw. I believe band saws are terribly underrated by beginners.

 

[Tim Sherwood]

I use the Triton router with it's built in lift and micro adjustments. Mine hangs in the middle of my home built router table. That is a standard 30" high work table, When I'm not using the router, I cover the top with a piece of !/4 hardboard. This is my main worktable. I do most of my routing while sitting at the table. It's not a problem to reach under the table and adjust the hiegth. Of course the Triton has a crank that can be inserted through the table top also. I've never needed an auxiliary router lift.

 

[Rwe2156]

I have the Jessem lift and like it a lot. My only peeve is the plastic inserts.

Had to do over, I'd get the Incra only b/c of the magnetic inserts.

I had a Triton and it developed backlash in the height gears to the point that when you unlocked the collet it would drop by almost 1/8". This became a huge issue when trying to micro adjust.

My response from Triton was "its the nature of the beast" they offered to send to a repair shop which I declined. They may have fixed the issue, I'm guessing it's plastic gears. There's a lot of weight hanging there.

I also agree on a router table. The only reason I would put on int the table saw would be lack of space and then I would want a 52" extension table and I would have to opt for a separate fence.

On the PCS, you won't regret that decision. I had a close call a couple months ago - enough to scare me into calling my local Woodcraft that day to discover they actually had a 3HP PCS in stock - the last one expected for a while - and I picked it up the next morning. I sold both my Jet table saws within a week and have never regretted the decision.

That was more for my wife's piece of mind than me worrying about a lost digit.

It does take a little getting used to only having 1 saw, and the extra steps to use a dado blade.

 

[bainin]

I have Jessem MasterLiftII (iir) .

The lock nut ate away the aluminum housing which it "interferes" with to hold it in place. This nut resides on the underside of the table such that I need to put a wrench on the nut
under the table to tighten.

Not a huge inconvenience, but annoying.

Was I overtightening ? Probably.
Should the design be able to withstand me overtightening? Yes, I think so

Jessem does offer a replacement lock nut/screw/housing assembly. Maybe not the first one this has happened to...

b