Round Aggrivation Board

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cjh

New User
chris
Hi all,

I'm making an aggravation board and I need help figuring out how to create the recesses for the marbles to sit in. The board is round, which makes it so I don't have an easy and obvious reference point when locating the spot where the depression will go. I used a graphics program to determine where I want the spots, but even if I mark the locations on the board, how do I get close enough that the rows will look straight?

I don't have a ton of tools now, but I have a plunge router with a bit that will work for this. If anyone has a suggestion for doing this, I'm all ears. The only thing I have thought of was marking the spots and then maybe clamping 2 pieces of mdf or something parallel on either side of the row I am working on and using a bushing to try and get a straight line. Is there an easier/better way?

Someone suggested first making a template out of MDF or something else, but it seems like the only thing easier about that would be that I could use a piece of square material. How do you generally deal with precision placement on round materials?

Thanks,
Chris
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
start out square. draw your circle for reference. lay out all your lines and holes while it is still a square. then you can cut it round or route the recesses in whatever order you choose. I would cut the circle last.:icon_thum
 

cjh

New User
chris
Unfortunately, what I'm working with is already round :/ But I guess that still applies to using the mdf as a template.
 

gator

George
Corporate Member
Can you use hot glue to mount your circle on a square piece of hardboard and use the hardboard edges as a reference?

George
 

FredP

Fred
Corporate Member
Unfortunately, what I'm working with is already round :/ But I guess that still applies to using the mdf as a template.

Find center of the circle and draw a strait line through it. then use a compas to get the rest of the angles. all lines go through the center line. use these lines to set the template you're going to make. :wwink: assuming you have a drill press you can make a jig to use to make a line boring jig. set the fence to the center of some scrap wood or mdf. drill one hole. then slide the scrap the distance you want between the holes and drill another hole and clamp the scrap to the DP table. [these holes will be the same size as your router collar. stick a dowel in the first hole. now take another piece of scrap and drill one hole near the end. slide that hole over the dowel and drill another hole. repeat untill you have all the holes you need. now you have a template you can clamp to your reference lines and rout the divits. clear as mud?:gar-Bi
 

sushinutnc

New User
Mike
I used a graphics program to determine where I want the spots, but even if I mark the locations on the board, how do I get close enough that the rows will look straight?
So, you are able to transfer the proper locations to the board? (I would print it out, then tape or tack glue to the work piece).

Do the marble depressions need to be rounded (like with a roundnose bit)? If not, I would maybe try a drill press and a forstner bit (giving a depression with straight sides and a flat bottom) or a large diameter drill bit (giving a more rounded contour, but not perfectly round). At least the drill press allows for more precise alignment than plunging a roundnose bit that has poor center reference (visually).
 

sushinutnc

New User
Mike
It looks like this guy uses a spade bit.... or maybe a forstner. I don't have my glasses. LOL. That would be VERY easy to line up to a paper template on your board. If you don't mind hoofing it to Holly Springs, I can set you up with a drill press and appropriately sized spade bit. Just PM if you're interested in the help.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Looks like they're called "Aggravation Boards" for more reasons than one. :gar-Bi
Chris, we'd like to take the opportunity to welcome you to the site and ask that you visit the Who We Are Forum and tell us a little about yourself. It'll only take a few moments and as you can see, we are a friendly bunch! :icon_thum
 

cjh

New User
chris
I do want the depressions to be rounded, if possible. The forstner bit doesn't look bad, though. I think I might have an appropriate bit in storage. The board has a 24 inch diameter, it's going to be for up tosix players. My fiance's family plays all the time on an old 4 player octogonal that their grandfather made, but having a board of our own and more players would be nice.

I was able to use Gimp to figure out where all of the holes go and I can print out a paper template to use. I don't have access to a drill press right now so I may you up on your generous offer, sushinutnc. It would be easier to be accurate with that than a plunge router.
 

farmerbw

Brian
Corporate Member
Chris, welcome aboard. Game boards are fun projects. :icon_thum

Not sure if you plan on making more than one of these or not but I use a Rocker marble bit and plexiglass template to make Chinese checker boards like this 12"x12" one.

LightHouse01.JPG



The bit works well in a drill press but the small dp I have requires that I do a couple of the inside holes with a hand drill. A spake or forstner will work as well, depending on your boards thickness. I've been wanting to try a four or six player aggravation board but haven't found time to layout and make the template.

HTH,
Brian.
 

cjh

New User
chris
I would probably make just the one, so I won't invest in that bit. I wasn't thinking last weekend when I visited the Fab Lab in Durham. They probably would have let me use their CNC to do this, though I don't know how long it would have taken me to get it set up(http://fablabscarolinas.org/).

We got to see the laser cutter in action and they had almost finished building a makerbot for NC State.
 

sushinutnc

New User
Mike
I wasn't thinking last weekend when I visited the Fab Lab in Durham. They probably would have let me use their CNC to do this
If I had to do the project, I definitely would have done it on the ShopBot at TechShop (but I'm a member... not something you can just walk in and do).

Re: the round bit-- I was going to suggest also trying it in the drill press. Glad to see it worked for Brian. Probably would want to test on a scrap first.

A lot of folks here are willing to offer shop time/assistance.... very generous group of people here. Really no problem at all, if you want to use my drill press.
 

smitty62

New User
Dick
I made three of these back in the early 60's. Layed it out with a ruler on a Formica sink cut out and drilled it on a drill press and a regular 1/2" bit using only the tapered part of the bit. Painted the holes black. I didn't have many tools back then (still don't) but after all, it is just a game board. It played just fine.:wink_smil
 

Flute Maker

Mike
User
Take a square board that is bigger than the round one you have now...Cut a round hole in the square one using the round board as a template .Then place the round board inside the square one and then you can get your reference pints from the square one.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
Best of luck with your project Chris, it is refreshing to see that there are still folks around who enjoy playing games that do not involve a power cord or internet connection. :gar-La;
 
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