Question about applying sanding sealer?

[knb226]

Just wondering when and really how do I need to apply sanding sealer. I am going to try and turn some Spalted Red Oak. With being the open grain ScottM suggested getting some sanding sealer. So I got this from Woodcraft.

It doesn't really give much direction as how to apply. It says apply with a cloth and it's kind of vague, do I need to have the lathe off and turn the lathe using my hand and apply in the open parts of the grain and then once dry do I then sand down the excess? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[boxxmaker]

First off,I have never used that brand,so I can't help on that part,but what I do use is a water based sealer that I get from Ace hardware.I sand the piece down to 80 grit,then just set the piece out where it will dry and just slop it on and let it dry,about a day or so.or when I get around to finishing it.Then return it to the lathe and finish sanding.BTW the water based from Ace is about 30.00 a gal and will last quite a while.Plus its water cleanup.I just don't care for the oil based sealer,but I'm sure it works just as well,just takes longer to dry to where you can sand it.

 

[FredP]

sand the piece as much as you need it and apply the SS with a paper towel or rag. thin coats. I usually use 2 coats. then sand lightly with 220 or higher grit and apply your finish. what you have is lacquer based so I would use a lacquer based finish [top coat] the mylands sanding sealer dries in a few minutes so 2 coats is quick and easy.

 

[knb226]

First off,I have never used that brand,so I can't help on that part,but what I do use is a water based sealer that I get from Ace hardware.I sand the piece down to 80 grit,then just set the piece out where it will dry and just slop it on and let it dry,about a day or so.or when I get around to finishing it.Then return it to the lathe and finish sanding.BTW the water based from Ace is about 30.00 a gal and will last quite a while.Plus its water cleanup.I just don't care for the oil based sealer,but I'm sure it works just as well,just takes longer to dry to where you can sand it.

sand the piece as much as you need it and apply the SS with a paper towel or rag. thin coats. I usually use 2 coats. then sand lightly with 220 or higher grit and apply your finish. what you have is lacquer based so I would use a lacquer based finish [top coat] the mylands sanding sealer dries in a few minutes so 2 coats is quick and easy.

Thanks and thanks, do I need to put the bowl in a brown paper bag and let sit for a couple of weeks before applying the SS? And I've got some of this stuff

I guess that is for my topcoat?

 

[CaptnA]

If the wood is fairly solid but is soft, i use a foam brush and dab it on. Let it dry then turn -(low speed sharp tools light touch).
As I get close to what I want, I reapply as needed. The wood tells me when I need it by its action. Be proactive with the sealer.
Foam brushes are often a dime apiece or less. I don't bother cleaning them. If I need more within a few hours I put the brush in a bag, get the air out, and usually have no problem reusing them

 

[FredP]

is the wood wet or dry? if it is wet you will want it to dry first. if it is already dry then sand it seal it and finish it. friction polish works ok for small stuff like pens and bottle stoppers. for bowls I would use something else. you apply it and turn up the speed and burnish it in. it is heat activated so faster is better. for bowls I use deft clear gloss lacquer in the spray can. it is almost fool proof and works well with the mylands SS you have. do not wrap the rag around your fingers when polishing.:no: If it grabs it's gonna hurt....

 

[knb226]

is the wood wet or dry? if it is wet you will want it to dry first. if it is already dry then sand it seal it and finish it. friction polish works ok for small stuff like pens and bottle stoppers. for bowls I would use something else. you apply it and turn up the speed and burnish it in. it is heat activated so faster is better. for bowls I use deft clear gloss lacquer in the spray can. it is almost fool proof and works well with the mylands SS you have. do not wrap the rag around your fingers when polishing.:no: If it grabs it's gonna hurt....

Thanks for that tip good to know. Not really sure if the wood is dry or wet yet, I roughed out some blanks last week and sealed the ends with a cheating way to seal (wood glue and water mixture, I am cheap). I don't have any other polish though....hmmm I'll figure something out. When turning I'll be able to tell if it's wet or dry, like if it is wet there will be long shavings and not much dust, right?

 

[Gunslinger]

I don’t know if it makes any difference but the Mylands High Build Friction Polish is shellac base, not lacquer based. I do use Mylands but would not buy the sanding sealer again due to the cost.
My Mylands sealer is shellac based, not lacquer base as your "cellulose" is. I don’t know if you can use shellac on top of lacquer or not.
The reason I would not buy the sanding sealer is shown below (not many solids in the sealer bottle). I can buy a quart of shellac and a gallon of DNA for about $30. That’s three quarts of sanding sealer with two quarts of DNA left over.
Mike

View image in gallery​

 

[Robert Arrowood]

If the wood is fairly solid but is soft, i use a foam brush and dab it on. Let it dry then turn -(low speed sharp tools light touch).
As I get close to what I want, I reapply as needed. The wood tells me when I need it by its action. Be proactive with the sealer.
Foam brushes are often a dime apiece or less. I don't bother cleaning them. If I need more within a few hours I put the brush in a bag, get the air out, and usually have no problem reusing them

I have even put the used brush in a ziplock bag and put in the freezer.I've left them for a couple days and reused them with no problem.