pre finish question

zapdafish

Steve
Senior User
I am doing a dry fit before glue up and am wondering if it's ok to apply finish now. About 2-3 inches around the joints while I have everything clamped up. The sides/legs are all glued up. The dry fit are for the two horizontal boards

Plan to use tried and true varnish oil.



184460




overall project


184461
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Take it apart so it’s easy to get to easily. Tape off the glue joint areas.

I finish as much as possible before glue, makes it a lot easier.

Usually will do one final finish coat after it is all together.
 

zapdafish

Steve
Senior User
was kinda hoping to be able to apply some finish now around the joints when they are clamped tightly together before I glue it. I'm assuming the squeeze out wouldn't stick to the varnish..

Are you saying to finish the whole thing before glueing?
 

Graywolf

Richard
Corporate Member
Yes, if you disassemble the piece, tape off the areas that you do not want any finish on, you can apply the finish sand and apply any additional coats. Then do the final assembly. Any squeeze out will easy be cleaned from the surface.
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
wish I had prefinished the legs/sides first before glueing them up
Why? I'm a fan of prefinishing but sometimes it's not needed on certain pieces of the total construction. I've used Tried & True Varnish Oil. Wipe on and wipe off several times. Kind of a PITA in my experience.


I'm trying to figure out your design for the table and the pictures are helpful to some extent. Did you post the design and dimensions of the pieces in another thread? It looks like you're using dowel joinery and not mortise and tenon.
 

zapdafish

Steve
Senior User
ugh, went pretty badly taping, the capillary action bled quite abit under the tape. I used blue painters tape. I sanded it off the flat surfaces, getting ready to do some practice runs with my shooting board this weekend for the end grain, lol.
 

zapdafish

Steve
Senior User
This is what I am building. I wanted to use dominos but I have the 500 and I think they are too short and wasn't about to pay 1500 for the big brother so am trying dowels.

https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/adjustable-desk/

I didn't post anything about this in another thread but I did upload all the pics of taken so far to an album but didn't know how to bring a gallery pic into my post. Discovered I could just drop in pics from my drive without having to upload first.

For whatever reason I selected reply to Jeff and the quote blocks are empty.

 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
Don't fret about a little capillary bleeding under the painter's tape. You'll still have lots of gluing surface.

Thanks for the plans. Your using dowels instead of angled tenons in the plan. Why? The purchased plans have the dimensions and hardware sources?
 

zapdafish

Steve
Senior User
It wasn't a little, I'd say a third of the glue area was affected.

For dowels, just lazy. Projects take so long between when I stop and pickup there is a really good chance I'd forget what I was trying to do and make a major mistake. For the same reason anything handtool related I need to do practice runs first and there have been many times when all I accomplish are the practice runs and when I come back to the project have to restart with some practice runs.

The plans do come with dimensions and hardware sources but I discovered I could have bought a motorized lift desk for the same amount I paid for hardware and wood. I still prefer the look of this one, just kinda assumed it would be cheaper.


Don't fret about a little capillary bleeding under the painter's tape. You'll still have lots of gluing surface.

Thanks for the plans. Your using dowels instead of angled tenons in the plan. Why? The purchased plans have the dimensions and hardware sources?
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
What kind of wood are you using? Taping off the joints: after putting the tape on go over the edges with a wood block to really press those down on the wood and minimize seepage under the tape.
 

TENdriver

TENdriver
User
ugh, went pretty badly taping, the capillary action bled quite abit under the tape. I used blue painters tape. I sanded it off the flat surfaces, getting ready to do some practice runs with my shooting board this weekend for the end grain, lol.

Steve, Firstly, that’s a good looking project!

Any chance you could post some photos of what happened with the masking and finish bleeding?
 

Graywolf

Richard
Corporate Member
Oops never mind I just went back to your original post and read, and now I have to ask how much did you put on in one coat, I generally use really thin coats at a time when using that finish.
 

zapdafish

Steve
Senior User
sorry, I already removed the bleeding so too late for pics and did the glue up this weekend

Tried and True says to use very light coats so thats what I did. I did 3 layers since I planned 4 layers as the final and was saving the last layers after everything was done.

Side note, I knew oil has a gold tone to it and on oak its great but it happened to turn my ash a light gold color. I really like it but would love the white a whole lot more, lol. Just wasn't so apparent on a little test piece.
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
Side note, I knew oil has a gold tone to it and on oak its great but it happened to turn my ash a light gold color. I really like it but would love the white a whole lot more, lol. Just wasn't so apparent on a little test piece.
How is a gold tone different from your light gold color on the ash? You could have used Zinsser ClearCoat shellac (clear and dewaxed) if you wanted a clear water white finish instead of an oil based finish. Nonetheless, we're all waiting for your pictures with the Tried & True Varnish Oil finish.

KenOfCary likes the Tried & True finish and he made a white oak piece several years ago using T&T.

Prairie Settle


Prairie Settle

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zapdafish

Steve
Senior User
I got turned on to Tried and True by Ken. Stopped by his shop for something else and saw that settle in progress. Before I was using the watco danish oil where the instructions basically say to flood the piece and let it sit for abit before wiping it off! I'll check out the Zinser, also got a can of Osmo. If I can remember I'll snap a pic of it tonight.
 

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