pore filling success!

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merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
After giving up on the wet-sanding-danish-oil-fill-pores-with-sawdust approach, I decided to try filling the pores with shellac. The process involved many coats of shellac. After every 3-4 coats, I would cut back the finish on the surface (leaving it in the pores), and then more coats of shellac, followed by more leveling of the surface. I think I put at least 12-15 coats on. Fortunately, you can apply many coats of shellac in a few hours. Flexner recommends leveling with sandpaper, but that seemed slow, so I put a slight hook on a card scraper and used that. It is definitely faster. But leveling quicker means there is a higher risk of cutting through to the wood, which I did on more than one occasion. Nevertheless, I eventually did get the majority of the pores filled on my test piece. If you look in the reflection of the lamp over my workbench, you can see there are only a few pores left unfilled in that area. I managed to get large areas that are now completely smooth. After wet-sanding through 2500 grit and then some rubbing compound, I have nearly achieved a mirror finish :banana:

And the QS figure really jumps out at you!

It doesn't have quite the same impression of depth as a dark wood such as walnut. I'm not even sure I'll want that level of gloss on my coffee table. Taking the gloss back down to a satin sheen should be pretty easy at this point. One thing I do know - is that I want that nice smooth surface for this project. Finishing has always been a weak spot for me, so I'm pretty excited about this result. I'm going to try to perfect this sample piece and then attack the table tops.

BIG CAVEAT: AFAIK, this approach will only work on shellac and lacquer. These finishes, regardless of how many coats are applied, bond to form a single layer. With most other finishes I'm aware of (poly, varnish) each coat is a distinct and separate layer - so cutting back the finish will likely cut through the top layer into the next, leaving little rings and waves in the finish. Unless, I suppose, you could put on one really thick coat? Anyways, you've been warned and my conscience is clear now :>


OakShellacFilledPoresRubbedOut.jpg
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
Chris, thanks for the info on how you filled the pores w/ shellac. Sounds like a lot of work, though. :wsmile: Are you concerned about a shellac finish on a coffee table, considering it's vulnerability to alcohol?

Bill
 

merrill77

Master Scrap Maker
Chris
Chris, thanks for the info on how you filled the pores w/ shellac. Sounds like a lot of work, though. :wsmile: Are you concerned about a shellac finish on a coffee table, considering it's vulnerability to alcohol?

Bill

I don't know about yours, by MY coffee doesn't have alcohol in it! Maybe I should try that? :rotflm:

No, I can't say I'm really concerned about it. Most beverages don't have much alcohol in them. Shellac is far easier to repair than almost any other finish (as I've learned in this process). That plus all the other advantages make shellac my favorite finish. I'm more concerned about water rings. Ask me again in 5 years!

Not sure what I'd do for a kitchen table, probably lacquer, but I don't have to solve that problem today :>
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
My experience with shellac on end tables - no alcohol involved!

My experience with shellac on end tables - no alcohol involved (well except to cut back the first coats of shellac!)......

Chris - I like you thought that shellac would be a usable repairable finish. Within days of moving pieces in the house, a wonderful funky metal rack had scratched up the shellac finish. Ironically the metal rack was for coasters, you know coasters to put under your cup and to PROTECT the end tables. :BangHead:

While the theory is that the shellac finish is repairable, in practice I don't get out to repair it, so that really makes it non-repairable ( for me).

I guess this is simply to say yes it is repairable, but shellac may not be as tough as other finishes (for funky metal posts on a rack for coasters).

Henry
 
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