Here is a picture of a recent project. It is a Poole and Williams scratch beader. I got it without the blade of course. Made one along with a few blanks. It looks a little happier now.
Poole and Williams Windsor Scratch Beader
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Finding the documentation was just a stroke of that good ole *Reed luck*. The Kansas City Tool Works guys did a repop of this very tool and had lots of info on their web site. I did not like the sizes of the original beads, so I made mine a 3/16, 1/4, 3/8 combo. It seemed better suited for my woodworking. Here is a picture of it ready to go to work.
As far as I can tell, the semicircle parts function is to protect your fingers from the sharp parts of the cutter that are not in use. It kinda reminds me of a big paddlewheel riverboat.
Jim,
I bought one of the repros from KCTW and it works great. My only reserve is that the fence that came with it isn't long enough to keep the tool from twisting as you finish the stroke at the end of a board. I contacted Kevin and asked if a longer fence could be made and have yet to receive a reply. It is my understanding that others have asked for the same thing. Maybe one day he will offer it as an upgrade. The design of the face plate doesn't lend itself to fabbing a fence since it sits lower than the body where the fence is registered. Possibly a spacer of sorts could be made to make up for the distance the fence sits proud of the body / handles. I still might have to wrangle something together when time permits. What are your thoughts?
Mike
I bought one of the repros from KCTW and it works great. My only reserve is that the fence that came with it isn't long enough to keep the tool from twisting as you finish the stroke at the end of a board. I contacted Kevin and asked if a longer fence could be made and have yet to receive a reply. It is my understanding that others have asked for the same thing. Maybe one day he will offer it as an upgrade. The design of the face plate doesn't lend itself to fabbing a fence since it sits lower than the body where the fence is registered. Possibly a spacer of sorts could be made to make up for the distance the fence sits proud of the body / handles. I still might have to wrangle something together when time permits. What are your thoughts?
Mike
Well you are a lucky guy to have one of their beaders. Looks like a nicely executed tool.
The fence is mia on my beader and I need to make one. The original was pretty small and I think the repro had one very close to the original. I have used a Stanley #66 beader with a short fence and never had a problem with it. Others find it too short and have made larger fences. I think it is all in how you use the tool. I like to work from reference surfaces, so when I use the beader I first put down a reference mark. Then I let the cutter follow the mark. To me, the fence is only a backup for the reference cut. It does lead to irregularities, but then, I am an irregular kind of guy. If I wanted it straight and machine precise I would have used a router.
All you have to do on the P&W beader is clamp a long straight stick between the fence and the cutter. A few 2" C clamps would probably work. At least that would be my starting place. Good luck.
The fence is mia on my beader and I need to make one. The original was pretty small and I think the repro had one very close to the original. I have used a Stanley #66 beader with a short fence and never had a problem with it. Others find it too short and have made larger fences. I think it is all in how you use the tool. I like to work from reference surfaces, so when I use the beader I first put down a reference mark. Then I let the cutter follow the mark. To me, the fence is only a backup for the reference cut. It does lead to irregularities, but then, I am an irregular kind of guy. If I wanted it straight and machine precise I would have used a router.
All you have to do on the P&W beader is clamp a long straight stick between the fence and the cutter. A few 2" C clamps would probably work. At least that would be my starting place. Good luck.
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