Polycrylic

[jeff...]

This is now the 2nd time I've used water based Polycrylic as a top finish and I must say I really like it (alot).

Minwax

Couple of upsides:
* Each coat dries in 2 hours, so you can finish a piece quickly :-D
* Can achieve smoother than babies butt by rubbing out the final coat with 0000 steel wool (easy)
* Sprays great with my low pressure spray gun (no thinning required)
* Cleans up easy with warm soapy water (big plus !!!)
* Is tough, Kid tested tough (my kids).
* Is easy to repair - sand out surface scratch and re coat, once dry blend to surrounding sheen with steel wool.
* Cleans with soap and water.

Down sides:
* I don't think I would use it as a sealer for bare wood (water based = grain raise)
* Have not tried it over oil based stain (I don't stain wood), but have over oil based poly. just need to scuff up the oil based poly with some 220 grit sand paper and polycryic adheres great.
* Because I seal bare wood with oil based poly and have only one gun - I have to be very careful I clean the gun thoroughly and ensure it's dry of acetone, before loading it with water based polycrylic. Acetone and polycrylic don't mix - don't ask me how I know
* Little costly in comparison to other finishes, but not that much more.

It should be noted, I have not brushed as per the directions, I have only sprayed it with my low presure spray gun.

Anyone else tried this product? I really like it, it's easy to use and I'm getting great results.

Thanks

 

[chris99z71]

I used it on my bar (pics in my gallery). I even used the spray polycrylic on the black steel legs. That's the only clear finish that I intend to use in the future.
Your assessment is right on the money, Jeff. Super easy to apply. My only issue is that it isn't super water resistant - a cold glass will leave a hazy ring. The ring fades as it dries though. But then again, I don't know anything that won't to some degree.
Minwax says not to use steel wool on any water based finishes...they're afraid of rust. I've always used 320 grit paper between coats.
Read the FAQ here.

 

[jeff...]

Chris, Thanks for the link, I've been steel wooling in between coats with single 0 , I blow the surface off with an air hose and then wipe with tack cloth before I apply the next coat. I could see the possibility of rust, should a strand of steel wool be left on the surface though. Thinking being water based, it was wise of Minwax to say not to use steel wool. Maybe I should listen to them :slap:. Think I'll go out and by a 220 grit sanding sponge or some synthetic steel wool and use that instead.

I did a little more research, it's actually polyester and acrylic resin, so it seems it's about the equivalent of what my wife uses to paint her finger nails. Hence why it's so smooth and tough but being water based it doesn't stink near as much and cleans up easy. I'm really liking this stuff, it's so much better to work with than oil or even water based polyurethane, even the quick drying kind. Oh did I mention how much I really like this stuff? :-D

 

[NZAPP1]

I also like it for ease of application and clean up and dries tough as nails
:icon_thum

 

[Howard Acheson]

Let me make a couple of points.

First, it's best to aviod using steel wool as the steel shards can get into the finish and cause rust specks at a later date. In addition, it's best to use sandpaper for between coat abrading. Mount 320 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. This flattens the surface which goes a long way toward getting a professional looking finish. An abrasive pad just rides up and down over an uneven surface without flattening it. If you want to use an abrasive pad use a non-woven abrasive pad like scotchbrite. The gray scotchbrite is equivilent to 4/0 steel wool and lasts much longer.

Second, if you want to seal the surface, use a dewaxed shellac rather than an oil based poly varnish. The shellac will dry within an hour or so allowing you to sand it flat and get to you waterborne coats. Oil based stains can be overcoated within 2-3 days providing that the excess has been wiped in accordance with the label direction. Oil based varnish and poly varnish finishes should be allowed to dry for 4-6 days before scuff sanding and overcoating with a waterborne finish. Also, denatured alcohol quickly and easily cleans your equipment with no chance of contamination of your
waterborne finish.

 

[NZAPP1]

Howard
Thanks for the info:icon_thum

 

[MikeF]

I used Polycrylic on the TV Stand I just built. As mentioned previously in this thread, it dries quick and is very easy clean up. The finish turned out great (even though I do say so myself.:eusa_danc) Used #0000 steel wool to finish though.:eusa_doh: We'll see how that looks in 6 months.

I had never used water based poly before and just thought I would give it a try because of the quick dry time. I always equated water based to Diet Coke or Skimmed Milk (Can't possibly be good) Guess I was wrong.
I'll try skimmed milk next. 8-O

 

[JimThomasson]

Instead of steel wool, try bronze wool. You won't have to worry about rust. The finest is 00 but is fine for initial and middle rub-downs. Then 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper and finish with linseed oil and rottenstone.

Bronze Wool - Pads and Reels - Grades:Fine - Medium - Coarse

 

[jeff...]

Let me make a couple of points.

First, it's best to aviod using steel wool as the steel shards can get into the finish and cause rust specks at a later date. In addition, it's best to use sandpaper for between coat abrading. Mount 320 grit sandpaper on a sanding block. This flattens the surface which goes a long way toward getting a professional looking finish. An abrasive pad just rides up and down over an uneven surface without flattening it. If you want to use an abrasive pad use a non-woven abrasive pad like scotchbrite. The gray scotchbrite is equivilent to 4/0 steel wool and lasts much longer.

Second, if you want to seal the surface, use a dewaxed shellac rather than an oil based poly varnish. The shellac will dry within an hour or so allowing you to sand it flat and get to you waterborne coats. Oil based stains can be overcoated within 2-3 days providing that the excess has been wiped in accordance with the label direction. Oil based varnish and poly varnish finishes should be allowed to dry for 4-6 days before scuff sanding and overcoating with a waterborne finish. Also, denatured alcohol quickly and easily cleans your equipment with no chance of contamination of your
waterborne finish.

Hey Thanks for the tip and tricks there Howard, greatly appreciate your time and knowledge sharing.

Seeing that I work at the speed of a pack desert turtles in search of a water hole. I was thinking more like atleast a week for oil based poly to dry enough to scuff sand :rolf:

 

[NCPete]

What settings do you have your gun set at? What size needle are you using?

Using the Husky gun, with what I am sure is the 1.4mil tip. Is that too small for this material? Last time I shot anything it was my car, and I frankly recall absolutely nothing about gun settings from that body-shop class, just technique itself....

 

[DavidF]

I would agree with everything said about about WB finishes, although I use Target Coatings" products. Watch out for that Tack cloth too Jeff, they don't recommend those on WB either. 1.4 needle/tip works great on the WB I use, just adjust the material flow for a "just wet" coat.

 

[jeff...]

Little update on this finish, I have now used it as a sealer / toner and top coater. In other words I have finished wood exclusively with polycrylic. Use this stuff sparingly, mist coats only. On bare wood it takes 2 or 3 mist coats to seal the wood. when used as a sealer, sand each coat with 220. Toner coats can be mixed with powered pigments. Clear topcoats can be rubbed out with a scotchbrite pad for sheen adjustment and a smoother than babies butt finish. Ok I admit was skeptical of water based finishes at first, but now I'm sold. The finish is tough and nails, finger nails that is (read above).

This stuff is great :-D I now consider it a good general purpose finish. I'm tossing out what little poly I have left and will use polycrylic exclusively from here on out. At least till I find something else better and easier to work with.

Thanks