PC Dovetail Jig driving me crazy!

[Frank Berry]

Today I finally got the adaptors for my Bosch router so I can install the PC bits and collets and start learning the new Jig.
Well, after having to come back in the house and watch more videos and try to read the confusing manual some more, I am still half crazed trying to figure this thing out. I finally got to do a few blind dovetails, but they are still not perfect by any stretch. Not sure I even want to take on the box joints or through Dovetails until I can get some kind of schooling on it.
I consider myself a somewhat intelligent person, and have been able to install many items from instruction manuals but this thing is just plain ridiculous to me.
If anyone knows of any classes or maybe some information I have not yet found, I would greatly appreciate it very much.
My wife asked me today if I had gotten the hang of it and all I said was I learned how to put the dovetail jig back in the carton and ready to ship back to Amazon! I am serious guys, I am really at the end of this thing. I need some suggestions.
Frank

 

[Joe Scharle]

Frank, if it were me, I'd start with the simplest functions of any machine or jig. Due to the geometry of dovetails, a small change in the setup creates a dramatic change in the result.
So, in the case of this jig, I'd learn box joints first. In doing so, the manual may become easier to translate for more complicated functions.

 

[Cato]

I have that jig and though I have only used it for through dovetails, it has worked very well. I have found it much easier to use two routers set up identically than switching back and forth. Makes dialing in adjustments a snap for me. I use a 1617evs and a PC 690. Might be worth a try to see how that would work for you, and possibly cut down on the learning curve and frustration?

 

[Frank Berry]

Thanks Joe and Bob. Having so much on my plate right now I think I should not have even taken the jig out of the box yet. Only 6 weeks into the recovery of shoulder surgery and working PT three to four times a day has already got the head spinning. I am trying to get a distraction from all that and thought by digging into the dovetail jig would really help with that and it is only causing more frustration on me. Maybe taking a step back for another couple weeks might help out. In the meantime I can keep reading the manual and look for a few more videos on using the jig will help me get the thing in perspective.
I only have the one router at this time so changing over the bits is the only option I have right now. I was working on the blind dovetails and almost have it down now, but still need a little more polishing to satisfy me. I guess between the new band saw, new router and new dovetail jig it is all a bit much on me while juggling two physical therapists trying to rip my arm out of the socket! Time to take a breath I guess.

 

[KenOfCary]

With a single router you are going to want to make some simple jigs - something like well marked thicknesses of wood to help zoom in to the correct depth of cut - once you find it of course - for each bit. This will allow you to go back and forth between bits with minimal re-set up.

 

[JGregJ]

I don't have a jig, but looking at Bob and Joe's comment suggest that one factor is getting the bit depth setup properly. So once you get a joint that does work, perhaps you can figure out how to turn that working joint info a guide/jig to setup the router for the future. I'd also second Bobs comments of starting with box joints as they are simpler -- still requires setup and accuracy in bit depth, but the geometry isn't 'compounded' by the angled bit. Good Luck and have some patience with yourself -- it's nice when things just work, but sometimes we have to learn through making mistakes.

 

[Frank Berry]

With a single router you are going to want to make some simple jigs - something like well marked thicknesses of wood to help zoom in to the correct depth of cut - once you find it of course - for each bit. This will allow you to go back and forth between bits with minimal re-set up.

Ken, Isn't the depth gauge on the side of the PC jig supposed to be for setting the depth of the router each time you change bit or thickness of the wood?

 

[KenOfCary]

You're probably right. I don't use a jig for dovetails (have one new in the box to sell one of these days when I can get some pics made) so I've no experience with any jig, let alone yours. I hand cut my dovetails. Guess I should have just kept quiet since I obviously don't know what I'm talking about exactly.

I just find metal bars or pieces of wood to use to set depth of routers or saw blades very convenient. And repeatable. I felt repeatable was the key with such a jig. Glad to hear they have that issue covered already.

 

[Frank Berry]

I appreciate all the advise you give me. I find every bit of it helpful too. As you can see, I am not afraid of asking questions and I love to learn new things.

 

[JimD]

I'm glad it is starting to make sense. I think most people have problems with dovetail jigs until it clicks and then not so much. I keep mine, a HF, on a little stand that has a drawer for setup jigs. The key one is a U shaped piece of 3/4 plywood with a drywall screw in it that is my depth gauge. My jig only does half blind dados. My jig stops the router with a bar across the back of the jig. Your's stops when the guide on your router base bottoms in the slot of the jig template guide. The PC way of adjusting this looks better to me. I took a look at the instruction manual and I think it only takes one setup in one router to cut half blind dovetails. That is the way mine works. I find half blind dovetails to be so quick to make I often use them for both the front and back of drawers. I use them in some of my shop drawers. They are not hard but figuring out the setup can be frustrating.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Grizzly sells a HF clone and has an excellent user manual on-site for free download.
What I like about the HF model is the ability to move that little 'bar' as you call it, a little deeper and cut offset blind dovetails. I wont go into it here, but you can cut variably spaced AND use longer bits than shown in the manual.

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And when you get tired of eating all that dust and chips, knock one of these together.

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[junquecol]

The stock bits that come with the jig are nothing to write home about. They work, but others work better. Woodcraft sometimes had Whiteside bits for jig on sale. There are several youtube video's on this jig, which are worth watching. Bushing has to be absolutely centered, or you will have problems. I would look for an old PC 690, and set it up for use on jig only. Once it's set, forget it.

 

[CrealBilly]

Simmer down and drink more sweet tea

 

[Frank Berry]

The stock bits that come with the jig are nothing to write home about. They work, but others work better. Woodcraft sometimes had Whiteside bits for jig on sale. There are several youtube video's on this jig, which are worth watching. Bushing has to be absolutely centered, or you will have problems. I would look for an old PC 690, and set it up for use on jig only. Once it's set, forget it.

If I could find a PC 690 reasonable, I would get it and dedicate it for the jig.

 

[Bryan S]

Woodsmith produced a very good podcast on machine cut dovetails featuring the 4210 porter cable jig. I knew it would take me a while to find it but I did.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/2007/04/30/podcast-20-machine-cut-dovetails/

It has been a while since I used mine and it did take a bit of time along with plenty of descriptive words to get it set.

Here are a few things I do remember that should help

- Are you using the right bit? It has to be a 17/32" 7 degree dovetail bit. Others will be very difficult if not impossible to setup.

- The depth gauge is to get you close. Once you get your depth of cut setup, you then set the depth gauge to where you have your router set. This will change every time you change the thickness of the stock you are working with.

- You cannot work with just any width of stock. You are limited to certain widths of the stock you can work with. The jig is designed to work with dimensions that end in 1/4 inch. 3 1/4", 4 1/4", 5 1/4" and so on. There is an adjustment on the left front that centers the work pieces. That is a set it and forget it and spaces the 2 work-pieces 1/2 inch apart.

The podcast explains this much better that I probably can along with many other details. Her is a pic of the first dovetails I did with this jig.

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[Frank Berry]

Thanks Bryan. yes, I have the depth gauge correct as well as the correct bit and dim of wood. What I needed is more time when my shoulder is not bothering me as well as the 100 degree heat in the garage right now. Everything was an irritant to me and causing my patience to run extremely short. Usually I am a very laid back person, but like I said, my shoulder is now into 6 weeks since the rotator cuff surgery and I am trying to deal with the physical therapy as well as my new band saw that I can't use and the new router and jig I can't use. I am going to put everything on the back burner for at least another two or three weeks until I can get further into my therapy and hopefully will regain full use of my right arm. I was shocked when I was able to tune up my table saw with minimum movement of the right arm. That all went very well and the new sled I built only needed one adjustment to get me dialed in. After that I thought I would be able to do anything until the physical therapist got a hold of me a couple times. I have to spend a lot of time under ice after the visits.
Thanks for the advise and tips.

 

[Bryan S]

Frank it do sound like that you might have said some of those same expletives that I said. :gar-Bi

Take a breath and watch some of those podcast. They have not posted any new ones in some time, but there are plenty of great podcast posted in addition to the one I linked to. You can stream them or download and watch any time.

 

[JimD]

Joe, you are more creative than I am with the HF. Mine wears a Grizzly 7/16 template guide and I cut the same joint all the time. Maybe someday I will experiment a little. Your joints look nice.

Bryan, the video you posted a link to is great - but really long. But for anybody having problems, it would be very worthwhile. It would be more enjoyable if he would just set the thing up for a joint and cut it instead of talking about every variation as he goes. But he moves right along.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Jim, those pics were from a workshop I gave. I did the first corner and the attendees did the others.

I use a Woodrat for serious work but for utility drawers (kitchen, vanity) I grab the HF. Here's a pic of what I call serious work. I like to mix 'em up.

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[Frank Berry]

Bryan, just finished watching the video you gave me the link for. Very good information. Wish I had a better copy of the video though. I also wish I had a copy of the plans for the work station for the jig. I really liked that!