New workshop build
- Thread starter Bas
- Start date
The panel has enough amps, and it had just enough slots open for all the required circuits (including 2x220V). I could have made room with some of the skinnier breakers, but luckily that wasn't required
Time for some finish! I finished half of my previous set of cabinets with Waterlox, and the other half with GF Enduro-var. I liked the Enduro-var better, spraying oil-based finishes is always messy. But of course there was sanding/ vacuuming/ cleaning between coats. Not only a lot of work, but time consuming. So I wanted to try something different with these cabinets.
I never used a hard wax oil before, but certainly heard good things about it, including how you only need 1-2 coats and don't have to sand in between. Plus, I like the idea of a low sheen, easy-to-repair finish. Mark Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) recently did a review of competitors to Rubio Monocoat, so I decided to give the Rustic Lumber furniture oil a try. It's one liter, shipped for $50. That's pretty darn good.
Application was pretty straightforward but not simple. It appears to work better on solid wood than plywood, although the very poor quality of the plywood panels may have had something to do with it. Also, you really need to work it into the wood, which I think is easier with a larger piece such as a table top. You also have to be really careful not to accidently get any of the finish on the other (still unfinished) side of the cabinet door, because things are not going to blend in. Since I was wearing gloves that was tricky, having a helper who takes care of moving the parts really helps.
The biggest challenge was finding enough places to put all the doors and drawer fronts. You can't really do this in small batches since whatever finish you mix has to be used within a few hours. I ended up putting a couple of doors on top of some ladders, trash cans, etc.
You do need two coats for this for nice, even coverage, but the second coat goes on really quick. There is of course an oil smell (keep the doors open...) but it dissipated within a week or so. I found some hardware for a very good price on Facebook Marketplace, these pulls were essentially new. And I've got lots of spares.
The color is rather uneven, but that's because the cabinets had every shade of maple. Some of it was riftsawn, some flatsawn, some was almost white and some looked more like red oak. But it looks great, and it's wood - it's not going to be uniform.
Next in line is setting up the table saw and dust collection, and we can actually start building something....like more shelves for the cabinets
I never used a hard wax oil before, but certainly heard good things about it, including how you only need 1-2 coats and don't have to sand in between. Plus, I like the idea of a low sheen, easy-to-repair finish. Mark Spagnuolo (the Wood Whisperer) recently did a review of competitors to Rubio Monocoat, so I decided to give the Rustic Lumber furniture oil a try. It's one liter, shipped for $50. That's pretty darn good.
Application was pretty straightforward but not simple. It appears to work better on solid wood than plywood, although the very poor quality of the plywood panels may have had something to do with it. Also, you really need to work it into the wood, which I think is easier with a larger piece such as a table top. You also have to be really careful not to accidently get any of the finish on the other (still unfinished) side of the cabinet door, because things are not going to blend in. Since I was wearing gloves that was tricky, having a helper who takes care of moving the parts really helps.
The biggest challenge was finding enough places to put all the doors and drawer fronts. You can't really do this in small batches since whatever finish you mix has to be used within a few hours. I ended up putting a couple of doors on top of some ladders, trash cans, etc.
You do need two coats for this for nice, even coverage, but the second coat goes on really quick. There is of course an oil smell (keep the doors open...) but it dissipated within a week or so. I found some hardware for a very good price on Facebook Marketplace, these pulls were essentially new. And I've got lots of spares.
The color is rather uneven, but that's because the cabinets had every shade of maple. Some of it was riftsawn, some flatsawn, some was almost white and some looked more like red oak. But it looks great, and it's wood - it's not going to be uniform.
Next in line is setting up the table saw and dust collection, and we can actually start building something....like more shelves for the cabinets
Your shop is looking good! I might have to give the Rustic Lumber Oil a try. We moved into a new house in June, and I've been trying to get the garage ready for moving tools in. Garage door insulation and wall insulation cleanup took way longer than I thought it would, but it's mostly done. Now I'm working on lighting and then hopefully a mini-split and some additional electrical circuits. Do you have any plans for flooring (mats / tiles / etc)?
Bas I can only imagine how nice it will be to finish building and refitting the space so you can build! Appreciate the way you explained the issues you ran across and how you addressed them, especially the existing issues with drywall bowing and cross tapering floor. Nice write up. Thank you for sharing your adventure~
Everything always takes longer, doesn't it? For flooring, what I'm really looking for is 500 sq ft of used LVP for cheap. There were a couple of posts on Facebook Marketplace a couple of months ago, but I wasn't quite ready to pull the trigger. I'm sure something will pop up soon enough. LVP would be much more comfortable to stand on, easier to clean, and also provide some insulation.
How far are you willing to drive. I have a friend that has flooring left from some jobs. I don't recall now what it is. Might be prefinished hard wood. It's in shelby. If you are willing to drive this far I'll willing to drive to his shop and see what it is and get back to you later today after I finish a repair job.
Well it is ugly, but waaaaay easier to access than clambering into my crawl space in the dark! Thankfully I have not had to shut off water very often.
I just cant believe how far weve fallen as far as tradesman. I see no pride in anything newly built anymore. Its sad
Jim, thanks for the offer! Shelby might be a bit too far to drive I think unless it's a really good price, no point in saving money on flooring and spending it on gas
Not sure how well hardwood would do over a concrete slab with the occasional moisture from outside, then again it doesn't need to last forever either. Appreciate you checking.
I can look tomorrow, keep in mind, at least in Charlotte, habitat restore always has a bunch of flooring donated.Jim, thanks for the offer! Shelby might be a bit too far to drive I think unless it's a really good price, no point in saving money on flooring and spending it on gas
Made quite a bit of progress the past couple of months, but have neglected to post updates. Bought myself some nice tools toyls to replace the tools I sold when I moved a couple of years ago.
Getting the SawStop installed was relatively easy, Klingspor delivered it straight into the garage so the only difficult part was moving it upright into the mobile base. Not too bad with one extra set of hands.
I decided to go with the industrial mobile base since it's easier to maneuver. That was a good decision. The only problem is that the folding outfeed table doesn't quite work with this combo: It can't fold down all the way because the bars hit the base. It's not a showstopper, but it bothered me enough to shorten some of the bars to fix it. Only mistake I made was not realizing these bars were steel, not aluminum. Good thing I had an old miter saw blade to sacrifice. A little filing, sanding, and a touch of black spray paint and it all comes together. The saw is extremely nice, but this is something that should have been noted in the documentation.
Next up was dust collection. I went with the Oneida V-3000, since the footprint is somewhat smaller than the Grizzly. Overall a very nice machine, although the Shop Fox W1809 (Grizzly G0441) had a lot nicer fit and finish. Performance seemed to be about the same. The bin overflow sensor is included in the V-3000, which is nice, but the rolling bin on the Grizzly is easier to manage. I printed a simple adapter that fit into the V-3000 opening and accepts the 6" PVC S&D pipe. I've used my 3D printer for many different projects, but it absolutely excels at creating dust collection adapters.
I wish I had a bit more room to make the initial run into the cyclone a bit longer, but this was the best I could do. So far, I've only ran one leg to the table saw, to help keep the mess under control. I need to extend the run at the ceiling to the other side of the garage for the router table and band saw, and split the table saw drop so I can also hook up the jointer/ planer without having to constantly switch hoses.
First order of business with the new table saw was to cut some 3/8" strips of plywood to reinforce the drawers. These are cut to fit exactly and epoxied into place. It's not the most elegant solution, I would have preferred some sort of joinery or mechanical fastener, but these cheap drawer slides make it quite difficult. The first one I did appeared to be plenty strong, so I decided to suppress my overbuilding instinct for a change. It was a LOT of plywood to cut, and with 5-minute epoxy, you can really only do one drawer at a time.
Next up is countertops.
Getting the SawStop installed was relatively easy, Klingspor delivered it straight into the garage so the only difficult part was moving it upright into the mobile base. Not too bad with one extra set of hands.
I decided to go with the industrial mobile base since it's easier to maneuver. That was a good decision. The only problem is that the folding outfeed table doesn't quite work with this combo: It can't fold down all the way because the bars hit the base. It's not a showstopper, but it bothered me enough to shorten some of the bars to fix it. Only mistake I made was not realizing these bars were steel, not aluminum. Good thing I had an old miter saw blade to sacrifice. A little filing, sanding, and a touch of black spray paint and it all comes together. The saw is extremely nice, but this is something that should have been noted in the documentation.
Next up was dust collection. I went with the Oneida V-3000, since the footprint is somewhat smaller than the Grizzly. Overall a very nice machine, although the Shop Fox W1809 (Grizzly G0441) had a lot nicer fit and finish. Performance seemed to be about the same. The bin overflow sensor is included in the V-3000, which is nice, but the rolling bin on the Grizzly is easier to manage. I printed a simple adapter that fit into the V-3000 opening and accepts the 6" PVC S&D pipe. I've used my 3D printer for many different projects, but it absolutely excels at creating dust collection adapters.
I wish I had a bit more room to make the initial run into the cyclone a bit longer, but this was the best I could do. So far, I've only ran one leg to the table saw, to help keep the mess under control. I need to extend the run at the ceiling to the other side of the garage for the router table and band saw, and split the table saw drop so I can also hook up the jointer/ planer without having to constantly switch hoses.
First order of business with the new table saw was to cut some 3/8" strips of plywood to reinforce the drawers. These are cut to fit exactly and epoxied into place. It's not the most elegant solution, I would have preferred some sort of joinery or mechanical fastener, but these cheap drawer slides make it quite difficult. The first one I did appeared to be plenty strong, so I decided to suppress my overbuilding instinct for a change. It was a LOT of plywood to cut, and with 5-minute epoxy, you can really only do one drawer at a time.
Next up is countertops.
Thanks Howie! I actually saved all my DC pipe and fittings from the last shop, including the blast gates. If I were to buy new again I'd definitely go with metal duct work, but only because of the price. I still think plastic fittings are easier to handle overall, the biggest challenge was finding blast gates that fit (which is why I printed my own...).
I have about 1.5" between one of the rows of cabinets and the wall due to a small curb. This posed to be a bit of a challenge since a standard countertop wouldn't be wide enough. I went back and forth on making some custom ones using particleboard/ laminate, or finding some 36" ones. Then I saw these black laminate ones for sale at Lowe's, for all three segments it was $150 out the door. Yes, there's a gap behind the backsplash. I find that I'm much less OCD about this these days. It's nice when it looks good, but it's a shop, and it's already overkill as it is.
These countertops were somewhat warped and bowed though, I had to reinforce the cabinets a bit with some strips of plywood along the top so I could screw them down and flatten them into submission. My fiance is quite good with the Kreg pocket hole jig so that went pretty quick.
The gap between the cabinets is for the miter saw. I glued up two pieces of 3/4" plywood and mounted it between the cabinets. Since this is 1/2" particleboard I screwed on some 3/8" plywood on the inside for some extra support. I was able to reuse the existing dust enclosure after some trimming (this setup is slightly smaller than my previous shop), and it's all starting to fall into place.
The last bit of cabinetry was to add some toekicks. This is just 3/4" plywood tapered to account for the slope in the floor. A little pecan golden stain and it's a decent match. Hopefully this will keep sawdust, screws, etc. from sliding underneath. I will eventually move this shop again so I didn't want to nail the toekicks. My OCD wanted me to use dowels for invisible fastening, my relaxed state of mind drove in a handful of 1 1/4" drywall screws and called it a day.
These countertops were somewhat warped and bowed though, I had to reinforce the cabinets a bit with some strips of plywood along the top so I could screw them down and flatten them into submission. My fiance is quite good with the Kreg pocket hole jig so that went pretty quick.
The gap between the cabinets is for the miter saw. I glued up two pieces of 3/4" plywood and mounted it between the cabinets. Since this is 1/2" particleboard I screwed on some 3/8" plywood on the inside for some extra support. I was able to reuse the existing dust enclosure after some trimming (this setup is slightly smaller than my previous shop), and it's all starting to fall into place.
The last bit of cabinetry was to add some toekicks. This is just 3/4" plywood tapered to account for the slope in the floor. A little pecan golden stain and it's a decent match. Hopefully this will keep sawdust, screws, etc. from sliding underneath. I will eventually move this shop again so I didn't want to nail the toekicks. My OCD wanted me to use dowels for invisible fastening, my relaxed state of mind drove in a handful of 1 1/4" drywall screws and called it a day.
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