That's been my experience also. 'Similar' is the best you can hope for.Practice and repetition are just the best way to get good at it.
I have one of the Penn State duplicators and it's better than the others I've tried, but like some have said, they result in similar profiles and tear up the grain a lot. I've not perfected my use of it enough to be happy with it. I guess I could try again at some point, but I've not been encouraged with the results yet. the pictures at the beginning of the post are far better than my results have been. Makes me kinda jealous of the resultsYou could make a small stand the connect to the lathe so the piece you are duplicating is behind the one you are turning. I have seen other designs where it is a platform resting on the lath body. There are products sold for this as well, like the link below for one sold by Penn State Industries designed for pens and small items (which has surprisngly good reviews). Holding the finished one to the current one being worked on is still an options. Practice and repetition are just the best way to get good at it.
Universal Duplicator Mechanism
Universal Duplicator MechanismThe Universal Duplicator Mechanism will mount to nearly anysmall lathe. You must provide a mounting bracket to position the duplicator at the appropriate height. Not compatible with large latheswww.pennstateind.com
Bob, do you have experience in Sales & Marketing? Hairball Approximator a great product name!...
The gadgets I've used that were sold as "duplicators" are more like: Hairball Approximators.
Mark has nailed it. I started turning on a Shop Smith and had the same problems with duplicating profiles. Over the decades I got more comfortable with turning and eventually got into duplicating spindles for people. At one time I had a five gallon bucket filled with 1/4" plywood story sticks showing various profiles. Below is an example of a small story stick that I've been using for over 10 years to make screwdriver handles. A thin piece of plywood with notches filed for a pencil. I'd rough a spindle then get the story stick and make my marks. Often when the profile was complicated, I'd do as others have suggested. I'd rig up a way to clamp the sample behind the turning so I could get a visual reference.
This has been the method used for years mark your low spots, cut down to those diameters using a parting tool and work between those points to fill in the rest.
Thanks! As long as they look OK, I'll call that success.Nicely done. They look perfect.