jointer plane

[daver828]

As a hand tool user, er ... beginner .... I have come to realize that I "need" a jointer plane. I had a Record #8, but didn't like it. Was thinking of having a wooden one made, either Japanese or Western. But as I began to look at different makers, the money thing hit me. Unfortunately, the money tree needs more Vigoro and not doing well. So I've had to research a little to spend wisely. Here is what I've come up with so far:

Ishihisa Brand Joiner Plane (Hida Tools) 196.00
Yokosaka Brand Tengyosei Joiner Plane: 398.00 Jointer Plane by E.C. Emmerich 169.95
Lie Nielson No. 8 Jointer Plane $475.00
Clark and Williams Jointer 425.00
HNT Gordon Try Plane 375.40


Or I could look into older Stanley's and tune them up myself, etc etc etc. Or find one already tuned and ready.

Now obviously from the standpoint of price alone, the ECE would be a good buy, or the Japanese, (I have a Japanese smoother which I like). From the standpoint of name, certainly the Clark and Williams or Lie Nielson would be good. I'm not really into tuning up an old Stanley, as I am leaning heavily toward wooden planes. But I guess one should never rule out a Lie Nielson. Of course if I won the lotto, I'd be knocking on Wayne Anderson's mailbox.

My thought process is going something like this: Should I spend the money on a really top notch jointer that will give me superior service? Or should I save money on a really top of the line smoother, since that would be the step after the jointer?

Maybe my thoughts are out of tune. Any thoughts from others?

Thanks in advance?

David

 

[Travis Porter]

Do you still have the Record? If you do, I would recommend buying a new blade for it (say a hock) and tuning it up a bit. I had a record #5 for ten years before I figured out what I was doing wrong and what was wrong with it and now I wouldn't trade it.

 

[Threejs]

You should be able to tune up the record plane. If it is chipped (around the mouth, cracked, badly pitted or warped, I would probably not mess with it. Otherwise, you "should" be able to tune it up.

 

[daver828]

the record was sold several months ago

 

[Travis Porter]

Of the models you listed I am only familiar with Lie Nielsen. Every tool of theirs I have purchased has been a pleasure to use and ready to work right out of the box. They aren't cheap, but the quality is superb.

 

[PeteQuad]

I am no expert, but I love my Blum Jointer plane. They are competitively priced, beautiful to look at, and great to use. They have some striking differences to other planes; for example their tiny blades and thick frogs. Take a look at them here:

www.blumtoolco.com

 

[froglips]

Wohoo, someone asked for my opinion! Well, not me specifically.....

There are some other western mfg to look at. Lee Valley/Veritas, Clifton, and Knight Toolworks all fall in your range.

From my experience and excessive research, a jointer is more critical than a smoother. Mostly has to do with wanting a long flat sole. The idea is the jointer does a lot of heavy work and the smoother makes as few passes in the end as possible.

You'll also find a jointer has more uses beyond flattening faces and edges during stock prep, whereas a smoother has a more specific job.

Flattening a long sole on an antique metal plane can be quite the undertaking. Depending on your personal interests, this could be a fun way to spend hours and hours The key to remember is you need it to be flat enough to take at least a 4 to 5 thou shaving.

You may also consider an antique transitional plane (wood body, metal mechanicals). Those offer a good compromise while the "ease" of working with a wooden sole.

One totally different approach, Bill Anderson is teaching a "make your own jointer plane" class in the October.

Good luck!

Jim

 

[Nativespec]

I have the Lie Nielson #8 and the Lee Valley #7 (low angle). The LV is priced well and they sell a fence for it. They are both good for me.

David

 

[4yanks]

If money is an issue I would buy an old iron plane like Stanley, Record, etc, etc... Additionally, there is no real need to completely flatten the sole of one. I own quite a few and only ever flattened one, that was enough. My jointer planes can all outperform (except for speed) my Jet 6" jointer. It is true that a badly twisted or warped one will never really work well. You can avoid most of that by sticking with earl 20th century models. Simply true up the mating surfaces and replace the original iron with a premium one from Hock or LN (well honed of course) and you're off to the races.

 

[mkepke]

Assuming a budget of a couple hundred bucks, I too would buy a used Stanley. There are - or at least used to be - several used tool dealers that would sell their planes "pre-tuned": fettled, adjusted and sharpened.

I've bought from Sandy before:
http://www.sydnassloot.com/index.htm

..and Patrick Leach:
http://www.supertool.com/oldtools.htm

And I'd highly recommend you, or any handtool afficianado check out the OldTools mailing list. There are regularily tools for sale:
http://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html

-Mark

 

[fsdogwood]

If you want metal plane, the Stanley #7 has a practical length, I had a
Stanley #8, then a Keen Kutter #8, but I knew that I wanted a #8 first
for the Stanley, then ran into the K8 since it was cheap ($20). I still use
my #7 more.

If you are after the wooden planes, they could be made longer (30" ?),
then you'll have to take care of the wood. I also have an ECE jointer,
have to say, the handle is not comfortable, even if the blade is good.

The idea of making your own wooden jointer plane is attractive, the easier
one would be the Krenov style, should be manageable, and worth a try.

Hope this helps.

Pinwu

 

[Gofor]

If you "Need" a #8, then you need a #8. I, too, will have one some day. If I recall, one of the members on here raved about how well the #8 he borrowed flattened his workbench top (a couple years ago). However, that particular #8 could get .002" shavings.

However, comparing my 'Needs" to my priorities, and adding in the budget factor, I am doing without for now. I picked up an excellent Stanley #7 (Circa 1930) at one of the MWTCA meetings for $45. I may have been able to get one cheaper, but I was there, it was there, and I happened to have the $45, so it came home with me and I have been well satisfied with it. Expect to pay more (i.e. double) for a #8 that is somewhat ready for use. In jointing long boards, especially those of wider thickness ( 1 1/2"+), I have found that a #7 suffices well now that I have learned how to make a true straight edge for reference. In reality, my #5 and #6 get used more than the #7.

If you can wait, try to find a MWTCA meeting, (they are usually posted on here) get up with some of the people there who, although they may not have one with them, have many more at home, and will be glad to put one together for you. If you spend $100-$150 for a good #8, that leaves $100 to $300 for an LN smoother. If you are going to purchase a used plane, there are many here, as well as many sites on the web that will tell you what to look for in a good user plane. Pick it up, take it apart, and get the feel of it. If the seller won't let you touch it, walk away. You probably won't find perfection, but will find one that will suit what you want and what you can improve to your need. (i.e. if you are planning to buy a Hock A2 blade, you don't "need" the blade to be good; if you can repair a handle, a crack lessens the price, but still makes it a good buy for you, etc).

I don't think Lee Valley makes as large as a #8 anymore, by the by, and the remark by Pinwu about the feel of the handle is something to consider when buying unknown brand, sight unseen.

JMTCW

Go