Looking at a DeWalt planer DW735 with Byrd Shellix cutterhead. What about it makes it worth the investment? Thanks for your opinions.
My original post (which I have now edited), suggested that my next planer might be another similar Delta. For the record, that is unlikely, unless I can find a nice 13 or 15" Delta/Invicta. It's more likely though that I'll end up with a Dewalt 735.In my experience all of the "Delta clone" planers with only two screws have way too much snipe. The design inherently allows the head to rock as the feed roller engages. A few have semi-clamps but they don't really work. ( DW374 and their like) Only the 4 screw types, of which the DeWalt is the only small one, are worth anything for decent woodwork. The 735 seems to be the go-to unit for everyone.
For some reason, I can nick a knife on the first board I run through. No knot, no grit, but it happens. As much as I hate DeWalt, the combination is my next purchase.
The next step up is something like the Jet, Northern, or Grizzly 15 inch jobs for $1800 to $2200 Generic Chinese stuff. Not portable, but 15 inch, 3 HP. 220 V. I have never used a "real" planer so I don't know if it worth the money. Usually, the bigger and heavier iron the better but in all the pictures of shops I see, it either the DeWalt or a monster industrial 20 incher and up.
There is also the Titan LUX head. No idea which is better as I have not used either.
PS: I have a mod for the old "Delta clone" that eliminates the snipe problem, but a big pain to use. Rikon and Jet both sell a spiral head "Delta clone" along with Cutech.
PC, valid comment on upgrades. I am struggling if to upgrade my table saw. My saw has done everything I ask of it (contractor class) but I really want big iron and the "boss" is in favor of the PCS. I am just choking on the cost.
Looking at a DeWalt planer DW735 with Byrd Shellix cutterhead. What about it makes it worth the investment? Thanks for your opinions.
I have seen report of people braggint that their shelix planed wood is so smooth they almost dont need to sand it but for a final grit sand. But I havent dont anything to prove it myself yetI would suggest shelix for the planner first. You flatten one face on the jointer thickness fat on the planner then flip it over and make another pass on the planner to get rid of any tear out left by the jointer. But then a dual drum sander makes life a little better.
I've seen them too. I ain't buying it. My strait knife lunch box does very good on non figured wood. Very little Sanding after but figured stuff gets the drum sander for final passes. My big planner (20") does the bulk of my work.I have seen report of people braggint that their shelix planed wood is so smooth they almost dont need to sand it but for a final grit sand. But I havent dont anything to prove it myself yet