I am making a frame for a pretty large photo print (20x36ish) for my son. It is curly maple (most llkely red maple) of medium curl. I decided to try using an old muzzle loading finish and I like the results so far.
The pic on the right shows a nearly finished sample on the top. Planed and then sanded to 220 grit, raised the grain with water and hit again with 220. I then dabbed the iron nitrate solution from Kibler longrifles on and let dry 30 minutes. At this stage the wood has a greenish cast as seen in the lower right.
I then proceeded to brand my forearm while using a heat gun to catalyze a reaction that changed the sample from the greenish tint to a much browner tone as seen in lower left.
To get the upper right/left sample I put on a coat of tried and true varnish oil. This brought out more warmth and brown/red tones. I think a coat or two of shellac might bring back some of the chatoyance. We will see.
So far I like the results. I have heard that the effect can vary between boards, so unless i plan on toning the entire piece, this may be only for smaller projects.
The pic on the right shows a nearly finished sample on the top. Planed and then sanded to 220 grit, raised the grain with water and hit again with 220. I then dabbed the iron nitrate solution from Kibler longrifles on and let dry 30 minutes. At this stage the wood has a greenish cast as seen in the lower right.
I then proceeded to brand my forearm while using a heat gun to catalyze a reaction that changed the sample from the greenish tint to a much browner tone as seen in lower left.
To get the upper right/left sample I put on a coat of tried and true varnish oil. This brought out more warmth and brown/red tones. I think a coat or two of shellac might bring back some of the chatoyance. We will see.
So far I like the results. I have heard that the effect can vary between boards, so unless i plan on toning the entire piece, this may be only for smaller projects.
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