Inlay and Stringing Work

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Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
As I mentioned earlier, here's a new thread on stringing and inlays. The topic of inlays and stringing came up multiple times yesterday with the NCWW folks, so it's probably worthy of some discussion. I happened to find a book at the MWTCA meeting "Charleston Furniture" by E. Milby Burton that is a history and information book about this style and period of furniture. Some of the features of this furniture is elaborate inlays, stringing, and carvings including the use of a lot of mahogany crotch veneers. Unfortunately the best picture is on the cover since the other pictures in the book are all black & white. The picture on the cover is a knockout as you can see below:

book.jpg


After I finish the book, I'll be glad to pass it along to someone else. This topic has gotten my attention because my current primary project has included a bunch of R&D in doing inlays and stringing. I'm building a walnut display case for my Marsh plane collection and have the end panels completed. I tried all afternoon to take some decent pictures, but it "ain't happenin" with this digital camera. So bear with the crappy pictures, maybe I can get better pictures later. The end panels are walnut, rail & stile construction with ebony pegged mortise & tenons, with bookmatched walnut burl veneered panels. The corner columns are round and fluted with ebony "rings" and finished off with corner pieces top & bottom with burl walnut inlays and ebonized stringing. Anyway, here's a pictures of one of the end panels:

endview3.jpg

The inlay fields of the corner pieces and the inner edges of the top and bottom rails have ebonized stringing. Following is another picture that hopefully shows a little more detail of these areas.

topdetail.jpg

The stringing is 1/8" ebonized "wood", probably maple or similar, because it flexes without breaking. Real ebony is very brittle and would be difficult to deal with as stringing. I inlayed the stringing in the rails with a dremel tool with the router base attachment, 1/8" straight router bit, and of course the fence. The curve in the top rail was routed by attaching the bandsaw scrap from sawing the curve, to the fence. Set the depth just shy of the thickness of the stringing. I was very concerned about screwing up with the Dremel, but it is actually very controllable and low risk, probably since you are actually only removing a small amount of wood. After the groove is routed and cleaned up, simply add a little dark Titebond down in the groove with an art brush, and place the stringing in the groove. I wouldn't put the glue on the stringing as this may cause the stringing to swell. A damp rag will take care of any glue squeeze-put. My stringing fit tight enough to not require any clamping. After it dries, simply sand the stringing flush with the face of your work. A very simple process that will add some nice highlights to your work.​

This has become quite long so I'll spare everyone and post later on how to do the inlays and stringing on the corner pieces.:icon_thum​
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Randy,

That is simply beautiful! Awesome work.

How tall is that section? And what size will the finished case be?

How many planes will it hold?

Will the front be glass?

And finally, is that all hand tool work?
 

nelsone

New User
Ed
Wow Randy, that piece looks great! You are quite talented indeed! How about some more pics of the cabinet? Excellent work on the stringing too. How did you size the stringing?

I may be interested in getting that book when you are done with it.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
I'm building a walnut display case for my Marsh plane collection and have the end panels completed. I tried all afternoon to take some decent pictures, but it "ain't happenin" with this digital camera. So bear with the crappy pictures, maybe I can get better pictures later. The end panels are walnut, rail & stile construction with ebony pegged mortise & tenons, with bookmatched walnut burl veneered panels. The corner columns are round and fluted with ebony "rings" and finished off with corner pieces top & bottom with burl walnut inlays and ebonized stringing. Anyway, here's a pictures of one of the end panels:

endview3.jpg

The inlay fields of the corner pieces and the inner edges of the top and bottom rails have ebonized stringing. Following is another picture that hopefully shows a little more detail of these areas.

topdetail.jpg

The stringing is 1/8" ebonized "wood", probably maple or similar, because it flexes without breaking. Real ebony is very brittle and would be difficult to deal with as stringing. I inlayed the stringing in the rails with a dremel tool with the router base attachment, 1/8" straight router bit, and of course the fence. The curve in the top rail was routed by attaching the bandsaw scrap from sawing the curve, to the fence. Set the depth just shy of the thickness of the stringing. I was very concerned about screwing up with the Dremel, but it is actually very controllable and low risk, probably since you are actually only removing a small amount of wood. After the groove is routed and cleaned up, simply add a little dark Titebond down in the groove with an art brush, and place the stringing in the groove. I wouldn't put the glue on the stringing as this may cause the stringing to swell. A damp rag will take care of any glue squeeze-put. My stringing fit tight enough to not require any clamping. After it dries, simply sand the stringing flush with the face of your work.​

You must really like your planes. That is looking like a cabinet fine enough to store a President's artifacts or the head of Bill Gates (when it is cryogenically frozen to be re-attached on another body in the future).

Dave:)
 

PChristy

New User
Phillip
Randy, that is one nice piese of furniture - looking forward to seeing the finished product -
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
Randy,

That is simply beautiful! Awesome work.

How tall is that section? And what size will the finished case be?

How many planes will it hold?

Will the front be glass?

And finally, is that all hand tool work?

Thanks Mike, I worked on the design for a couple of years, and also made a prototype. I put a lot of thought and changes into it before I made any sawdust. The end panels are about 32" tall, and the finished cabinet will be roughly 40" tall by 80" long. The finished cabinet will hold 41 planes which is one example of every type of plane that Marsh made, including bench planes, block planes and specialty planes. The doors will be 4 bi-fold doors each with 8-lite beveled glass. There's a whole lot of hand work in this but a lot of it was lathe work making the fluted columns, ebony rings and corner pieces.

Wow Randy, that piece looks great! You are quite talented indeed! How about some more pics of the cabinet? Excellent work on the stringing too. How did you size the stringing?

I may be interested in getting that book when you are done with it.

Thanks a lot Ed. I purchased the stringing from Acute Marquetry that sells on ebay. It's only $1.00 per 36" piece and consistent size and good quality, so there's no way I would try to make it when I can buy it that cheap. I'll post more pics of the cabinet as it comes along. Right now I'm working on the top, bottom and back.
 
M

McRabbet

Superb job, Randy! I know of your love for those Marsh planes an this case will certainly be appropriate to show them off! I want to be at the National M-WTCA Meeting where the case and collection will make its debut, because it will certainly be the hit of the show!
 

rbdoby

New User
Rick
Looking forward to seeing pictures of the finished piece. It's going to be beautiful. I've been doing a little research on inlaying and ran across a website for stringing and banding from a place in Monroe. Thought I'd pass it along.

www.inlaybanding.com

Rick Doby
 

PeteM

Pete
Corporate Member
That is going to be one awesome cabinet :icon_thum
Looking forward to seeing it full of planes!

pete
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Randy, you don't post your work often . . .but when you do you make quite a splash :icon_thum

That's a beautiful piece of work. Can't wait to see the finish project and improved pics. Thanks for sharing!

Roger
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Very nice, Randy. Do you have a pic of your Dremel base and arc guide you used to rout the curve.
Joe
Ditto. I'm kind of assuming the OP uses a Stew-Mac base.

I tried using a knock-off Dremel in a gen-u-ine Dremel plunge base and both were junk for inlay work like the below.

-Mark

Upper_leg_detail_640_by_480.jpg
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
Thanks everyone for your kind words. Joe and Mark, below is a picture of the Dremel and base. Both the rotary tool and the base are the Dremel brand and the base does leave a lot to be desired. Fortunately I only had to make 4 accurate cuts with it, so after many practice cuts to bolster my confidence, it actaully went quite well, probably because it was only removing a minute amount of material. The Dremel & base are laying on top of the fence. Notice the walnut bandsaw scrap screwed to the fence for cutting the arched top rail.

DremelRouter.jpg
 
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