I think I might be getting the hang of this

[DaveO]

A few new pens. The left one is Osage Orange and the right is Bocote. Satin nickle slimline kits. CA finished, and it's starting to work well for me :eusa_danc Thanks Clay, for the tutorial in Hickory.

Now here's my question for all you CA finishers....How the heck do you keep your bushings from getting glued to the barrels?? I have to break mine off with considerable force, and that has resulted in the finish occasionally chipping when they break loose. You can see the issue on the Osage Orange pen. Despite that difficulty, I will never finish a pen any other way, the results are unsurpassed by any other finish I've tried.

Dave:-D

 

[cskipper]

Gently turn the finish off the busings. Go very lightly to just remove the CA and not the metal. Oh yeah, buy some extra bushings because eventually you will decrease their size and your kits won't fit right.

 

[DaveO]

Gently turn the finish off the busings. Go very lightly to just remove the CA and not the metal. Oh yeah, buy some extra bushings because eventually you will decrease their size and your kits won't fit right.

Thanks Cathy, what would you recommend using for that? Parting tool, scraper, or heaven forbid <shaking> a skew <quivering> :icon_scra :icon_scra
Dave

 

[ChrisMathes]

Become one with the skew chisel, Dave... Seriously, I think you saw in Hickory that I like the chisel that has a rounded profile (on the side that rests on the tool rest.) Grab a scrap and turn it all the way down just to get the hang of it. You will catch a few times taking big divots out of the wood and then it will just click. I like to hold it so the edge is at about a 45 degree angle to the wood. So, if the wood is horizontal, the blade runs at 45 degress with the point on the left pointing down and the other side on the right and up in the air. Seriously, the skew is my favorite tool now and I definately walked out of the shop early on thinking I would never use it again. Once you get the hang of it, you can go nuts with detailing your spindle turnings (beads, etc.) In addition, I typically start sanding at 400 after using the skew...it's that smooth. It is well worth spending 1/2 to 1 hour practicing and you'll be on your way. I find myself working very small details on my pens that I previously would have shaped using sand paper (like rounding out the beads or getting the wood to match exactly to the bushings, etc.) Ok, I've rambled enough..but yes, that is what I use to clean the ca off of my busings. Then I pull the pen off and if the busings are still sticking, I grab the bushing with the pliers and twist...that gives me a smaller chance of breaking off the finish, like you did with the OO pen. It will only take 1-2 pens to get good at getting most of the ca off so that you just give a gentle twist to separate the pen and bushings.
\
Good luck!
Chris

 

[cskipper]

I use a parting tool.

 

[gsdoby]

Dave

I put some wax on the bushings. So far this has worked for me in my limited CA finishes. I use some paraffin. on the bushings and the mandrel(maybe overkill)

 

[DaveO]

Dave

I put some wax on the bushings. So far this has worked for me in my limited CA finishes. I use some paraffin. on the bushings and the mandrel(maybe overkill)

Gary, that was my first thought. But doesn't the CA still build up on the bushing? I know that the wax would keep it from sticking so the bushing should slide right out, but I would think that it would still leave a sleeve of CA that would have to be trimmed off :dontknow:
Dave

 

[cskipper]

Dave - ideally you are not coating the bushing with CA - that's only supposed to go on the wood!:lol:

 

[DaveO]

I was taught to start on the bushing and then move to the wood. The center bushing always gets a good coat because I cover both pieces in one pass :eusa_doh: :eusa_doh: :BangHead:
Dave

 

[dozer]

just soak your bushings in some nail polish remover or acetone.

 

[clowman]

Gently turn the ca off of the bushings with a parting tool. Careful not to turn your bushings away again. You'll sooner or later need to replace your bushings once you turned enough of them away. And, soaking them in acetone is also a good thing to do every now and then. Just don't leave them in there long enough for all of the acetone to evorporate out, or it'll rust your bushings. (DAMHIKT)

 

[SawDustier]

I use a parting tool or if I'm being really brave the point of a very sharp skew. Even doing this and using wax on the bushings some times the bushings are still a little stuck. A light tap on the bushing will break it away. Which ever method you use most times there is just a little CA extending beyond the pen blank. I use some old 400 grit sandpaper and ever so slightly tilt the blank and sand in a circular motion and then tilt the blank flat and once over the sandpaper that way. If there is any ca extending past the blank during assembly there is a very good chance that the pressure will not only break it off but will also lift some of the finish on the edge and you're left with ugly white spots.

 

[Eaglesc]

Dave - ideally you are not coating the bushing with CA - that's only supposed to go on the wood!:lol:

That may be true for some, but Ipurposely put a coat of CA on my bushings when I start to sand.I ususally seal with CA and don't worry about what gets on the bushings.
I use the skew to remaove it but A 1/4" woodworking chisel with a good edge would be better,(maybe I will find mine)
I turn the handwheel and remove the CA withthe chisel.
If you have problems with the filings from the bushings getting, out a seal coat of CA on the blank the CA coats the bushing and usually seals the woof so the metal doesn't stain it.
Another trick is to make a spacer out of a plastic bottler cap.put this between the edge of the bushing and the blank.
CA won't stick to it and it will save your bushings.Turn it down as you turn the blank.
I used to make them oput of breadboard material but the caps get thrown out anyway so why not?
They are a "uniform thickenss"