I Can Finally Pull Power To The Shop!

[crokett]

The new panel is in. I programmed 4 hours, it took 4.5 included failing the first inspection. I got dinged on grounding issues. The range is 220 but is 2 hots and a bare ground. Inspector said that bare ground is now considered a neutral so I had to tape as much of it as I could and extend it also. Among other issues the old box had was no ground strap grounding the box itself to the bus, so had to fix that too. However, now I have a main breaker shut off and a few more spots for a couple circuits I need. I also learned a ton of stuff doing this.

Here's a pic of the new work, waiting for the PoCo. New box is the taller one on the left. The old box was gutted and all the circuits extended to the new. Oh yeah, that power control module hanging under the old box? Inspector said it is not rated for inside, so had to hang it outside. PoCo came to put the power back on and said he didn't know if it was rated for exposure.

He says normally they put them inside where the WH is. Just one more thing that was either cheap or wasn't done right the first time.

 

[Trent Mason]

David,

All though most of that is like a foreign language to me, I'll be the first to say congrats on getting everything fixed and wired up. :icon_thum I look forward to learning all of that stuff one day so I can finally understand these posts. :gar-La;

 

[ScottM]

Don't you love it when the buidling inspector says one thing and the real experts says another.

 

[ptt49er]

Now get that power pulled so you can get more shop time ;-)

Congrats on passing the inspection!

 

[Bas]

The new panel is in.

Congrats David, I'm sure you're very happy this is done. Having done some electrical work myself recently, it amazes me there is so much "variance" in what's considered code and/ or safe. And how inspectors sometimes make things up as they go along.

All though most of that is like a foreign language to me

It used to be acceptable to wire a range with just three wires: two hots (giving you 220V) and a ground. But, in addition to producing massive amounts of heat (for which you need the 220V), ranges typically have lights, clocks, etc. that require 110V. They simply used one of the hot wires and the ground wire to deliver 110V. That's not allowed anymore, today's ranges (and dryers) require 4 wires - 2 hots, a neutral and a ground.

 

[crokett]

It used to be acceptable to wire a range with just three wires: two hots (giving you 220V) and a ground. But, in addition to producing massive amounts of heat (for which you need the 220V), ranges typically have lights, clocks, etc. that require 110V. They simply used one of the hot wires and the ground wire to deliver 110V. That's not allowed anymore, today's ranges (and dryers) require 4 wires - 2 hots, a neutral and a ground.

I am very happy it is done since now I can stop stressing about having the house w/o power for several hours.

Yup. I know the reason why he wanted the ground taped up. I just missed it, since it was a bare ground. Also, since that ground/neutral carries current according to the inspector it must originate in the panel where the ground/neutral are bonded, not in a sub. 220V tools that don't normally carry current on the ground are not restricted to this. Along the way I discovered some illegal wiring in the condensate pump for the A/C. Whoever installed the heat pump did an-all around crappy job, starting with the location of the unit outside.

Plan now is to pull power to the shop in 2 weekends, of course this panel upgrade was supposed to be 6 weeks ago.