Horizontal router table

[chris99z71]

Does anyone have or has anyone ever used a horizontal router table? I saw a picture of one in an ad in Wood Mag and I'm considering making one. My reasons are:
Easier access to router for changing bits, depth adjustments, etc.
Easier height adjustment.
It seems like it would be pretty easy to make raised panels with this using a vertical bit.
Here's a picture of the one that I was going to copy. They only want $189 for it, I think that's pretty cheap.

 

[TimRice]

As a matter of fact I was flipping through an old copy of Woodworkers Journal (their Router Special) last night and they had a plan for a horizontal milling machine using a router.

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/plans/index.cfm/plan_details/5/83/1885

 

[Jonz]

Interesting.

I'm curious if running horizontal all the time would shorten the life of the bearings or anything. I guess you can run them upside down in a table so it makes no difference.

 

[Steve D]

There are several versions of the horizontal mount that come off of the extension wing on a TS. They use a pivot pin as a fixed point and an arcing slot that allows for the adjustment of the depth of cut. I think I have a copy of this design at home in one of my router books. I'll look when I get home, I can share the details if you want to learn more.

 

[McRabbet]

There is a plan on pages 74-79 for a somewhat less elaborate Horizontal router table in Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack's book Woodworking with the Router. Although I haven't built one, it looks pretty easy to make.

 

[Steve D]

Ther version I was thinking of is out of Patrick Spielman's New Router Handbook. I have a copy if you would like to borrow it. It can be attached to the extension on a TS or to the back of a router table. It is pretty simple: a wedge shaped board (melamine or mdf w/ laminate) that the router is attached to. The router is attached directly to this in a recess. One side has a fixed pivot point, the other has an arc. Use a star knob and washer on the arc side to lock the position. You need to cut a notch into the extension or router table so the bit can be recessed into the table. If the pivot and arc are located properly, the whole thing is below the table and out of the way when not in use.

 

[chris99z71]

Thanks for the advice all.
Is this the idea of the simple homemade version that you are talking about? Except I can envision how it could be used on a table saw extension and designed so that it pivots right down out of the way...

 

[Joe Scharle]

Here's another view of the same idea. This is my first router table cut down for horizontal mounting. If I made one now, I'd just punch a bit hole through some decent ply because you don't need the plexiglass.

Joe

 

[Steve D]

Yes, that is the concept but instead of a square shape it was a wedge with the pivot at the point and the arc at the large end of the wedge. If the arc is cut so that it extends nearly to the edge then the system would be below the surface when it is down all the way. With the square shape, you would always have a corner sticking up.


One note of caution, this setup enables you to make cuts above the bit as well as between the bit and the table. It is very important to feed from the proper side to avoid "climb cutting" and to be wary of kickback if cuttting between the table and the bit. I see a lot of potential for injury if you aren't careful.

 

[chris99z71]

All good points, Steve D. Thanks to all for giving this so much thought. I definately intend to make it a tear-drop shape and fasten both the pivot point and the knob at the far end to lock it in place, below the table top.
I also agree that it's important for safety sake to keep the bit below the workpiece whenever possible.

 

[Joe Scharle]

One point; give yourself enough travel above the table to make mortises. That was my only reason for making it.
Joe

 

[DavidF]

Am I wrong or if it is mounted on the extension of the TS and the wood fed in from the front of the TS then the bit would need to be above the wood to avoid a climb cut. The picture at the top of the thread must show the wood "after" the completed cut. The router needs to be on your left to be able to keep the bit below the wood.

 

[chris99z71]

Or the wood could be fed from the other direction with the bit on bottom, right?

 

[DavidF]

Absolutely. It would just be very easy to get it wrong because of the normality of feeding from the front of the TS.

 

[Steve D]

The version in my book shows it mounted to the left wing of the TS for that very reason.

 

[chris99z71]

That would work too, provided I make a horizontal surface extended from the cast saw wing for the bit to pass down through. I'd rather just use the other end given the choice. But I see the argument for working off of the left end.

 

[chris99z71]

So would anyone like to share their experiences with using a horizontal table now that I know how to build one? Do you find yourself using the horizontal more than the traditional vertical, less, don't use it at all? Are raised panels more easily done this way? Is this a waste of my time?

 

[DavidF]

Hard to do curved top raised panels on the vertical.