Heartwood pine table - completed

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Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Here is the biggest project I have ever worked on - well at least the heaviest. This is an almost 10' long (116") kitchen table that is 40" wide and has a 2" thick table top. I have documented the process details and will describe that in subsequent posts.

IMG_3589.JPG

IMG_3588.JPG

and the piece at its destination:
IMG_3592.JPG


The material is primarily reclaimed heartwood pine - obtained from the relatively nearby Heartwood Pine Floors, Inc. in Pittsboro NC. http://www.heartwoodpine.com/
That was only a 45 minute drive for me, much closer than other options. They were a great company to work with - they primarily supply flooring, as their website shows, but they had no difficulty processing the material to the thicker dimensions I needed.

The exception to the heartwood pine material is the turned legs. The intended home for this table has a kitchen island with several turned posts. I found matching posts at Osborne Wood Products and ordered them in knotty pine.
http://www.osbornewood.com
The delivered posts were not all that knotty, since only two knots showed in the four posts I received. Next time I might choose (harder) maple instead, since I was staining the posts to match anyways.

For me the biggest challenge in building something this big and heavy was the scale - quite a revelation there wasn't it?! The weight and scale of these pieces changed my work flow. Several times I needed to take the tool to the work instead of the wood to the tool.
- The most obvious example of this was the table top. To crosscut the glue-up to length, I had to use a circular saw, not my table saw. The length and weight meant that once glued up I needed many more hands to move the table top - good thing I have some HS and college sons around at times.
- A second example was cross cuts on the posts - both the through cuts to define the length and partial depth cuts to define the tenon shoulders. The posts were too long and heavy to use a miter gauge and too thick for my cross cut sled. I also did not have sufficient depth of cut to cut even halfway through the through the post. Using the bandsaw was an option, but I am far less familiar and comfortable with the BS; I also quickly realized that making cut on these posts required a much larger BS table or outrigger support than I had available.

The other aspect of working on pieces this size is that my shop space was dominated by the parts - nothing else could happen when they were in there. When I sanded and stained the table top, it bridged my bench and TS. I could walk around the whole piece, and I could reach everything, but I certainly could not work on anything else with a several hundred pound, 40 SF table top on my TS and bench. I was happy to move that to the basement for further finishing.

A few other lessons learned:
- I am a poor estimator of how long a project like this might take. I estimated a 3 week minimum, and it took 4.5 weeks. It was actually 6 total weeks including 1.5 week Christmas break.
- making the table base became an exercise in pattern routing. I wore through a cheap Woodcraft pattern bit (was still a good value considering I paid $5 for it) and now I am in the market for more routers. I have a PC 690 router with 3 bases regular, D handle and plunge, but I changed bases, base plates, collets and bits more times than I care to remember in one project. Like I said, I am on the look out for another router.

I 'll stop here and inject more commentary on the "table process" threads that I will continue with later.

Henry W
 

Truefire

New User
Chris
Henry that is sweet looking, i can really appreciate your work involved in the production of this piece. Great looking job which i am sure the pictures don't serve it proper justice. Nice to have such room that this table will promptly provide. When guests come over you will actually have room for the food, condiments and the guests.

I really like your base, it appears very solid, well engineered and made.

Henry, the best feature overall that i cherish is the solid piece you have developed. The consumer cannot locate any furniture any longer that really is solid, that doesn't move under weight, etc; This table appears to be the exception.

I am certain it will withstand the pressure exerted by those that tend to "prop" their entire body weight on the edge of your tables. :saw: If it was any table other than the design of this one, well there you have it, a table in need of repair.

Looks like you have one that will be around for a while there my man.

Good job, Chris and thanks for sharing.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Beautiful work:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum

and I can appreciate the challenges of taking the tool to the work. (One of the reasons I became more involved with using hand tools).

....
- I am a poor estimator of how long a project like this might take. I estimated a 3 week minimum, and it took 4.5 weeks. It was actually 6 total weeks including 1.5 week Christmas break....

Henry W

Now that is a statement I can identify with! That's close to my best estimates. Sometimes my estimates translate from "weeks" to "months" to finally get to completion :elvis:

Looking forward to your "process" threads. Just flattening and finishing a large area like that top is a significant accomplishment. The logistics of assembly are something else. You have any stevedores in your lineage?

Go
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Henry, that really turned out nice - thanks for sharing.

The folks in Pittsboro are great to deal with - I bought all of the flooring in my house from them (before I had my sawmill).

Scott
 

leftoflefty

New User
Ricky
Absolutely fantastic!!!!!!!!!:thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up:thumbs_up I bet that was a humongous feeling of accomplishment when you finished it. I'm sure many family feasts will be had around this table.
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Just to be clear - I did this table for someone else. I wish I could have kept it.

If it was for me, I would have left the natural tones of the wood - beautiful golds, oranges, and yellows in that top. Rather I toned it all down to a much more uniform color that 'fit' much better in the final destination. Keeping the natural tones would have made coloring the posts on the base a nightmare though - this way I could stain it all and get to a uniform look.

Henry W
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
Very nicely done Henry, it is especially attractive to me since I am a big fan of recycled heart pine and have a rack full of it. Fortunately for me none of mine exceeeds 5/4 so I have to do little wrestling with heavy stock. :gar-La;
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Henry,

A very nicely executed piece that turned out exceptional! Did you send some pics to Dave Thurber at Heartwood Pine Flooring? I'm sure they'd like to put them in their website gallery. :eusa_clap

You're right about them being very good to work with. Very accommodating and they aim to please.

I'm headed over to your WIP thread. :icon_cheers
 

Mike Wilkins

Mike
Corporate Member
That is some fine woodworking there. You really did the heart pine justice. I have done some small projects in heart pine and it can be a challenge to work. Just a curious question: I did not see any mention of the finishing schedule for this table. What did you use for stain/topcoat? Thanks.
 

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Re: Heartwood pine table - completed - finishing schedule

Ahh Mike - I hate to make you wait .... there are other posts coming on this but I'll just answer your question. This may be more than you wanted to hear, but here it is....

I was trying, but failed, to create a somewhat pickled/whitewashed look because that is what the kitchen island has. Someone else tried and failed in that attempt too - you can't really see it but in the background of the last picture (the table at destination) there is a room paneled with pine boards (horizontally). The finisher there tried various combinations of stains to mimic the kitchen island, and could not do it. I could not match the island either, but i cam every close to the neighboring room pine walls!

I ended up using MinWax pickling stain (hard to find by the way), which is a water cleanup stain, that I custom mixed with the darkest brown water based stain that MinWax makes (Ipswitch Pine I think). These water based stains combine well (and NOT with their oil based stains; I knew better but had to try it anyways). They do not "stain and seal" as Minwax oil based stains do, they simply color (they are really very thin paints). The pickling stain states that the product should be wiped off before drying. I used the mixture in a "flood on and controlled wiping off" manner, being cautious not to flood the imperfections/nail holes/knots/ knot vacancies etc.
I let that dry and then spot stained any lighter areas using the by then saturated wipe off cloth.

Protective finish was several coats of wipe on Polyurethane - first ones were purchased as wipe-on poly, and the rest were a thnned mix of oil based polyurethane and solvents.

Michael Dresdner (http://www.michaeldresdner.com/) author of several of my books on finishing taught me that buying wipe-on varnishes was more expensive - they are simply thinned versions of full strength varnish. For small project I am happy not to have to mix stuff, but with a can of as purchased WipeOn Poly covering only 50-60 sq ft (i.e. not completely covering one coat of my table top on both sides), I started mixing my own.
- The second piece of wisdom that i applied from Dresdner is to use a Scotchbrite pad to apply poly. Poly urethane goes on in individual layers - unlike shellac the top layer does not disslve part of the next layer to combine one thick layer. For polyurethane the layers are distinct. That is one reason that they suggest sanding between coats, the existing layer is abraded to create some 'tooth' for the top layer to hold on to. During the build layers Dresdner suggests not waiting too long between coats (especially if using thinned poly) and using a scotchbrite pad to sand between coats, and apply a top coat simultaneously. For a final layer I think he suggests sanding first and then a final top coat.
All of this is what I have used after reading his advice many years ago (5, 8, who knows how many). So if you want to know precisely what he says, please go look at the source material (his books) and don't take my word for it. His and Jeff Jewitt's books provided me with the confidence to plunge ahead on projects ((ans still screw up!).

The finish on this piece was not intended to be high gloss smooth... because the table top was not that way either. Protection from usage with low sheen = satin polyurethane.

Note - I'll copy the text of this answer to the table top process thread which is here
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=37048

Henry W
 

Russ Denz

New User
Russ
WOW, Henry

The table is beautiful, and if you made any 'screwups' you hid them well. Overall, it's even better than you alluded to when we talked last Saturday. Good job; truly one you have every right to be proud of - keep up the good work.
Russ
 
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