Harpsichord Project Part 5 - Case Bottom

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ErnieM

Ernie
Corporate Member
Hi all,

The type of instrument we are building requires the case sides to sit ON TOP of the case bottom so the next component we need to build is the Bottom of the case. It would be easier to build the Bottom out of ½” plywood but, for tonal reasons, we can’t. Instead, we will build the Bottom out of ½” thick Select Pine boards. Because we want to control the direction of wood expansion we must build the Bottom in two sections. In the front of the instrument, the section where the jacks will pluck the strings, stability in the left-to-right direction is critical. Therefore, we build the front 17 11/16” section of the Bottom using boards that run from left to right (as seen front the front of the instrument). Since wood swells significantly more across the grain than with the grain this will give this area the most left-to-right stability. Any expansion of the wood in this area will be front-to-back which is not a problem. The remainder of the Bottom is built with the boards running front to back. Let’s build it!

The following illustration shows the plan of the Bottom.


bottom.jpg



The first photo shows the 4 pieces of stock that will make up the front portion of the case Bottom. The wood has been planed to ½” and all edges have been jointed.

BOTTOM1.JPG



The next photo shows the 4 pieces being glued up into a panel.

BOTTOM2.JPG



Next we have the glued up panel which has been cut to size and sanded.

BOTTOM3.JPG



The next photo shows the 7 pieces that will make up the rear portion of the Bottom.

BOTTOM4.JPG



In the next photo the longest 3 pieces are edge-glued together. This is a rather low tech but effective way of clampling. My workbench has rails on two sides that can be raised to act as a stop. The edge of the 1st piece is butted against the rail. Then wedges made out of scrap are used to apply pressure. One half of each wedge is nailed to the workbench with a couple of brads and its mate is wedged in to apply pressure. Weights are placed on top to prevent buckling of the pieces but the pressure applied is modest. Of course the boards must be well jointed. Small, thin strips of plastic are placed underneath each seam to prevent the panel from glueing itself to the workbench.

BOTTOM5.JPG



In the next photo the next two pieces are added to the panel. The brads are removed from the wedges and their positions are adjusted for the new pieces and re-nailed to the bench.

BOTTOM6.JPG



In the next photo the remaining two pieces are added to the panel.

BOTTOM7.JPG



In the next photo the panel has been cut to its correct width and the front edge is cut square to the sides with a router.

BOTTOM8.JPG



Next, we glue the front panel to the rear panel. The same wedge system is used. A couple of brads driven through the rear panel prevent it from moving backwards under pressure.

BOTTOM9.JPG



After the glue has dried we remove the Bottom from the workbench. We place the full-sized plan of the instrument on the bench and place the bentside on it. We move the bentside on the plan until we find the best match and place a mark on the bentside to show its front and rear locations.

BOTTOM10.JPG



The Bottom panel is placed on the workbench and the tail line is drawn onto the panel. Then we place the bentside onto the Bottom panel and trace its outline.

BOTTOM11.JPG



In the next photo the dark lines are the outline we just drew. The faint line is the line taken from the plan with carbon paper. The lines match perfectly except for the front several inches where our bentside has a little deeper curve than the plan. More than good enough.

BOTTOM12.JPG



The next photo shows the tail line being cut using a jig-saw and a wood guide.

BOTTOM13.JPG



The next photo shows the bentside being cut with a jig-saw. Unfortunately this must be done freehand so great care is taken to do this correctly.

BOTTOM14.JPG



The last photo shows the completed Bottom.

BOTTOM15.JPG



In Part 6 we will add the sides to the Bottom and, for the first time, have something that begins to look like a harpsichord. See you then.

Ernie

Part 1 - The Keyboard Part 2 -Keyboard con't. Part 3 - Keyboard con't. Part 4 - The Case (Bentside) Part 5 - Case Bottom Part 6 - Case Sides Part 7 - The Lower Braces Part 8 - Case Finished Part 9 - Building the Registers Part 10 - The Stand Part 11 - Jackrail & Moldings
Part 12 - The Music Desk
Part 13 - Building the Benchhttp://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/f101/harpsichord-project-part-12-music-desk-18962/
 
Last edited:
T

toolferone

Looks great, keep the info coming. So you have a end grain to edge grain glue up. Don't you have any movement issues there? It is a perpendicular glue up. Is the edge grain glue up strong enough? I am really enjoying this build.
 

bitbight

New User
Ray
Ernie,

This is so interesting, so many variables to be considered. I can see that this will definitely be one solid piece of equipment when it is complete. Keep it coming and thanks for letting us into your workshop.

Ray
 

ErnieM

Ernie
Corporate Member
Tom

Yes it is an edge grain to end grain joint. In Part 7 of this extravaganza we will glue a 3/4" thick bottom brace directly over this joint which will reinforce it and keep it from moving.

Glad you're enjoying the project. Keep those questions coming.

Ernie
 

Tar Heel

New User
Stuart
Ernie, You not only are doing a great job on the harpsichord, you are also doing a superb job in your photo / narrative tutorial. I know making the instrument is extremely complex but you make it look easy. Keep 'em coming.
 

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
Wow, Ernie, you are really cranking this one out!!! :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

Are you taking any time out to eat, sleep, etc.? Is this a Christmas present? You must becoming a "shop bachelor," or did you send your wife to the Bahamas for a few weeks? :wink_smil:wink_smil
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Ernie - just wanted to say I'm really enjoying this step-by-step description of the process. You're right, it's not that complicated at all. In fact, if I had your experience, shop, expertise and tools I could do it myself! :)
 

ErnieM

Ernie
Corporate Member
Wow, Ernie, you are really cranking this one out!!! :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

Are you taking any time out to eat, sleep, etc.? Is this a Christmas present? You must becoming a "shop bachelor," or did you send your wife to the Bahamas for a few weeks? :wink_smil:wink_smil


Alan,

Before I "retired" I couldn't wait to retire so I could get more sleep. Now that I'm retired I GET LESS!

Ernie
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Careful there, Ernie. If you give away all your secrets you'll have the whole website building harpsichords and the market will bottom out!:gar-La;
As for me, I'm enjoying it as much as anyone here. I can't carry a tune in a bucket but I do enjoy good music of all kinds. I once even made a 'redneck harpsichord' outa my fiance's piano with some thumbtacks on the hammers. I doubt it sounded as good as the real thing but we enjoyed it at the time.
 

ErnieM

Ernie
Corporate Member
Careful there, Ernie. If you give away all your secrets you'll have the whole website building harpsichords and the market will bottom out!:gar-La;
As for me, I'm enjoying it as much as anyone here. I can't carry a tune in a bucket but I do enjoy good music of all kinds. I once even made a 'redneck harpsichord' outa my fiance's piano with some thumbtacks on the hammers. I doubt it sounded as good as the real thing but we enjoyed it at the time.

Dennis

When I was in high school I tried the thumbtacks trick on my piano. I thought it sounded pretty neat but my piano tuner was not amused. I guess a lot of folks did the same thing because some piano companies now offer a "harpsichord" option on their instruments. It's a long aluminum bar that has 88 2" long fingers made out of a dense cloth attached to it. On the end of each finger is a small strip of metal. When you pull on a lever the aluminum strip is lowered so that the metal fingers lie between the hammers and the strings. When you play a note the hammer strikes the metal finger just before it hits the string and makes the metalic, harpsichord like sound. Pretty much sounds like the old thumbtack trick. Bet you didn't realize you were a pioneer!

Ernie
 

DIYGUY

New User
Mark
Dennis

When I was in high school I tried the thumbtacks trick on my piano. I thought it sounded pretty neat but my piano tuner was not amused. I guess a lot of folks did the same thing because some piano companies now offer a "harpsichord" option on their instruments. It's a long aluminum bar that has 88 2" long fingers made out of a dense cloth attached to it. On the end of each finger is a small strip of metal. When you pull on a lever the aluminum strip is lowered so that the metal fingers lie between the hammers and the strings. When you play a note the hammer strikes the metal finger just before it hits the string and makes the metalic, harpsichord like sound. Pretty much sounds like the old thumbtack trick. Bet you didn't realize you were a pioneer!

Ernie

We have a player piano in the family that is over 100 years old. It has a similar contraption. The metal buttons are hung on fingers of felt from a rod. A simple flip of a lever lowers the rod between the hammers and the strings. It does not sound anything like a harpsichord, but it is very different.

Aside - when my grandfather gave us this piano I was 10 years old. It did not work. My first mechanical challenge was diagnosing it and fixing it - which I did to the shock and amazement of my parents. Years later we had the entire bellows and player action recovered and restored. It is still going strong at my sisters house.
 
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