Food safe finish

[BobcatBob]

I have a Spalted Maple goblet that I just finished turning on my lathe and I want to have the choice to actually drink out of it. What type of finish do you suggest that I use that will seal the wood from liquids and make it safe to drink out of? Here is a picture of the unfinished goblet.

 

[JRD]

Bob,

It may be overkill but I've used a product by Famowood called Glaze Coat. It's the epoxy finish often used on bars and restaurant tables. It goes on very thick, supposedly each coat is comparable to 60 coats of varnish.

I put it in a vase that I turned and it held water without any signs of leakage.
I think it would serve you well.

Jim

 

[Mike Davis]

I was going to say epoxy too, but I think I would thin it so it would soak into the wood instead of being so thick.

 

[Trent Mason]

I was going to say epoxy too, but I think I would thin it so it would soak into the wood instead of being so thick.

What do you use to thin epoxy?

 

[jlwest]

4 coats of tung oil and let dry between coatsand buff between coats. Good for ocasional use. Tung oil soaks into the wood and becomes part of it but it must build up. Bottom line unless you want to plastic coat it for eveyday use go with tung oil. Just my opinon.
Jeff

 

[Pop]

A beautiful goblet. AS much as spalted wood of any kind are usually quite unique and beautiful, do you know where spalting comes from? Spalting is divided into 3 main types: Pigmentation, White Rot and Zone Lines. In all three cases it's the result of a fungus growing within the wood. Even when turning most spalted woods it's recommended you wear a dust mask so you don't inhale any of the dust and fungus into your lungs. I've turned spalted maple as well as other spalted woods into pens, bowls (show only) and pencils but never into anything that's used for food or drink.

That's just my opinion but maybe some one else here has a view of their own.

It is a very beautiful turning though.

 

[DaveO]

I have a Spalted Maple goblet that I just finished turning on my lathe and I want to have the choice to actually drink out of it. What type of finish do you suggest that I use that will seal the wood from liquids and make it safe to drink out of? Here is a picture of the unfinished goblet.

All woodworking finishes are non-toxic once fully cured. But in this case you are wanting a finish that won't allow the penetration of what ever Vino, dark Porter or diet Cola to stain the wood. Epoxy, as mentioned, would probably be your best bet as it will totally seal the wood from liquid beverage penetration.
As far as the spalting goes once the wood is dry and sealed the fungus is a non-issue. I do agree that turning spalted wood, especially green, is an important time for respiratory protection. Fungi are not all bad, they are what make cheese taste good, bread rise, and ales/lagers oh so good. Fungi are very host specific too, one that is in wood probably has no interest in a human.

So I would finish it with what ever you feel comfortable with, epoxy being the best choice, and drink from it enjoying the potential flavor enhancements that the spalting might provide ;-)


Dave

 

[Sir Chiz]

Nice goblet Bob.

Another finishing option is "General Finishes" brand of "Salad Bowl Finish", it's a urethane base oil varnish.
I used it on a turned kitchen spoon several years ago, still no signs of staining yet.

I usually thin some 25-30% with naptha, wipe it on and rub it in,keep applying till it stops absorbing and stays "wet" looking, let it set for 10-15 minutes to tack up.
Start the lathe, with a clean white cloth, apply medium pressure and move the cloth along the piece, this will remove most of the surface varnish. Keep rotating the cloth to a clean area, applying more pressure each pass, once all the streaks are gone, apply enough pressure to build some heat and burnish the finish smooth.
This gives an "in the wood" finish without a coating that will chip off.
Most of the pieces in my album,with a low gloss finish, were finished this way.

Phil.

 

[Mike Davis]

The reason I suggested epoxy is the fungus issue. Epoxy won't let anything OUT of the wood as well as keeping liquids from getting into it.

Acetone will thin epoxy, never add more then 10%. Some epoxies may already contain a thinner and adding more may wreck the chemistry, may not harden or may peel later.

 

[BobcatBob]

The reason I suggested epoxy is the fungus issue. Epoxy won't let anything OUT of the wood as well as keeping liquids from getting into it.

Acetone will thin epoxy, never add more then 10%. Some epoxies may already contain a thinner and adding more may wreck the chemistry, may not harden or may peel later.

Mike, what brand were you thinking of and where can I purchase something like it? Thanks.

Bob

 

[Mike Davis]

Bob,

I usually get the little plunger tubes from my local hardware store. I think the brand is Devcon. I use the two ton clear epoxy because it takes a little longer to set up and is a lot tougher.

I made the mistake of buying a quart one time and used half of it, the other half ruined. So now I buy the little tubes.

I guess if I had to do something really big I would have to get a quart.