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I have a solid core door set up that is near my windows and sink in my shop. I use an HVLP turbine set up (used to use a HVLP conversion gun). I partially open the dore, open the window, and insert a box fan blowing the air out. Personally, I think HVLP or LVLP is the key to being able to spray in a small shop. High pressure guns have just too much overspray in my opinion.
I do try to semi vacuum/clean up in the general area. I put a drop cloth over the bench/door, but on top of that, I use brown paper I buy from the BORG to keep from ruining my drop cloth with over spray. I have it mounted on a roller set up so all I have to do is roll off enough for whatever I am spraying. Heck, it even works well when I am working on say a small engine or something to keep from getting grease all over the door/bench.
When I was doing the cabinet project a while back I had built a lazy susan set up with wheels on it and screws through the top so I could rotate stuff, but as much lacquer as I sprayed it was useless by the time I was done. I have bought several sets of those new pyramid thingys. In a way they are a blessing and in other ways a PAIN. Still, having a plan/method for rotating and spraying the stuff is key.
I have become preferential to the Nitrite gloves from Harbor Freight. They sell true extra large, and hold up better than latex to finishing materials.
I did have a drying rack that I had built for that project, but dismantled it since it was so big and I don't spray a project with that many parts very often. Normally, I just distribute the sprayed parts around the shop as I finish spraying them.
I am going to use some precat and/or nitrocellulose lacquer soon (FRED YOU WILL BE VISITING WHEN I DO), but to date, I have stuck with spraying WB Lacquers. I have become very preferential to using dyes when I need to do coloring and now try to stay away from pigment stains like Minwax. I can spray dye very quickly, and it is super easy.
Lastly, I wear a respirator. I bought it from Lowes as they sell the replacement cartridges for it as well. When not in use, it is stashed in a 1 gallon ziploc bag.
I have a solid core door set up that is near my windows and sink in my shop. I use an HVLP turbine set up (used to use a HVLP conversion gun). I partially open the dore, open the window, and insert a box fan blowing the air out. Personally, I think HVLP or LVLP is the key to being able to spray in a small shop. High pressure guns have just too much overspray in my opinion.
I do try to semi vacuum/clean up in the general area. I put a drop cloth over the bench/door, but on top of that, I use brown paper I buy from the BORG to keep from ruining my drop cloth with over spray. I have it mounted on a roller set up so all I have to do is roll off enough for whatever I am spraying. Heck, it even works well when I am working on say a small engine or something to keep from getting grease all over the door/bench.
When I was doing the cabinet project a while back I had built a lazy susan set up with wheels on it and screws through the top so I could rotate stuff, but as much lacquer as I sprayed it was useless by the time I was done. I have bought several sets of those new pyramid thingys. In a way they are a blessing and in other ways a PAIN. Still, having a plan/method for rotating and spraying the stuff is key.
I have become preferential to the Nitrite gloves from Harbor Freight. They sell true extra large, and hold up better than latex to finishing materials.
I did have a drying rack that I had built for that project, but dismantled it since it was so big and I don't spray a project with that many parts very often. Normally, I just distribute the sprayed parts around the shop as I finish spraying them.
I am going to use some precat and/or nitrocellulose lacquer soon (FRED YOU WILL BE VISITING WHEN I DO), but to date, I have stuck with spraying WB Lacquers. I have become very preferential to using dyes when I need to do coloring and now try to stay away from pigment stains like Minwax. I can spray dye very quickly, and it is super easy.
Lastly, I wear a respirator. I bought it from Lowes as they sell the replacement cartridges for it as well. When not in use, it is stashed in a 1 gallon ziploc bag.
I'm working on setting up something for whenever it warms up a bit :5cold:. I got some tips from this video on the FWW website http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26509
For cardboard, I got a refrigerator box from the borg (free) and need to get another one. I already have a fan and filter, so I'm almost ready. :icon_thum
For cardboard, I got a refrigerator box from the borg (free) and need to get another one. I already have a fan and filter, so I'm almost ready. :icon_thum
Sometime this decade, when I get some storage built and my lumber organized, I will have room for a finishing area. My plan is to make a simple table with a lazy susan so the project can be rotated. To contain the overspray, I'll hang a shower curtain from the ceiling around three sides of the table. Of course, open a window for fresh air. The shower curtain can be drawn back and the table removed if I need to get to the lumber rack.
See the picture below. The table will sit by the window. You can see the 1x material on the ceiling from which the shower curtain will hang (I didn't put it there...I believe the previous owner was a woodworker!). Of course, this space is a complete disaster area right now holding lumber, sheet goods, junk, DC fittings, lights and numerous boxes. But the idea is that one day along the wall there will be a lumber rack!
I plan to only spray water-based finishes and shellac inside. For oil-based finishes...I can easily open the door and spray on the little patio area if necessary, assuming of course it's not raining, not too warm, not too cold, and there's not a lot of wind. I won't be spraying a lot of oil
You can't see this in the picture, but there's a sink in this room (wall opposite the window). That's really important, and a real luxury. Like Travis, I have an HVLP gun, although not quite as fancy (Earlex 5000).
At my previous place, I built a knockdown spray booth using 2" PVC pipe and fittings (roughly 6'x10'x4'), and some cheap shower curtains (Dollar General). I'd set it up in the garage (light, power) but leave the door open for ventilation. The shower curtains prevented a lot of dust settling on the project, and limited the overspray. As long as you don't glue the pipe, you can easily assemble/ disassemble it in about 5 minutes.
See the picture below. The table will sit by the window. You can see the 1x material on the ceiling from which the shower curtain will hang (I didn't put it there...I believe the previous owner was a woodworker!). Of course, this space is a complete disaster area right now holding lumber, sheet goods, junk, DC fittings, lights and numerous boxes. But the idea is that one day along the wall there will be a lumber rack!
I plan to only spray water-based finishes and shellac inside. For oil-based finishes...I can easily open the door and spray on the little patio area if necessary, assuming of course it's not raining, not too warm, not too cold, and there's not a lot of wind. I won't be spraying a lot of oil
You can't see this in the picture, but there's a sink in this room (wall opposite the window). That's really important, and a real luxury. Like Travis, I have an HVLP gun, although not quite as fancy (Earlex 5000).At my previous place, I built a knockdown spray booth using 2" PVC pipe and fittings (roughly 6'x10'x4'), and some cheap shower curtains (Dollar General). I'd set it up in the garage (light, power) but leave the door open for ventilation. The shower curtains prevented a lot of dust settling on the project, and limited the overspray. As long as you don't glue the pipe, you can easily assemble/ disassemble it in about 5 minutes.
I used my three car garage as a spray booth. I would blow out the garage the day before to get rid of dirt and junk. I then used milk crates to hold all my pieces I was spraying. If I needed heat, I had a kerosene torpedo heater that warmed up the garage nicely. I used a HVLP sprayer and water based lacquer. It worked well and I had plenty of room to work.
Red
Red
I must say the key to spraying in a non dedicated space is to use water based finish and HVLP. Before I spray I use the air gun to blow down the ceiling and walls while running the Jet over head air filter. Sweep and possibly damp down the floor, and then leave it for 24 hrs then do it again, especially if the piece is flat and large, like a table top or set of doors. I uses a simple drop cloth to cover the other close machinery but that's all. WB stuff dries to a fine white powder within a few feet of the spray area and has never caused a problem for me to wipe off any surface afterwards. Contrary to what you might read, it has NEVER caused rust on a metal surface it has landed on as this dust. I agree you need to plan how you are going to spray the piece all around before you even begin. A lazy susan will definitely help for the smaller parts.
:icon_thum I use a respirator purchased at the BORG and found that the bag storage works well, a lot of folks do not realize that sitting on a shelf uncovered does reduce the service life of cartridges and the mask itself accumulates dust.
When storing these type respirators you should also remove the cotton pre-filters if it has them before placing it in airtight bag.If they are in the bag with the charcoal filters they contribute to reduced service life of the cartridges.
With a shop as big as yours there is no reason not to have a dedicated finish area.:eusa_naug
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