Finish issue on table

[DSWalker]

Another lesson learned. Finished the table top and then the leaves at different stages. Color is about right, but the main table is a bit more shiny than the leaves. Not sure if I sanded different or what.

This is JUST stain. No poly or sealer of any kind yet. White oak, using minwax golden pecan as base, then a couple coats of dark walnut.

Any suggestions?

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

Sometimes the grain orientation can change how a board reflects light. As you walk around the table, do the breadboard ends suddenly become the shiny boards?

 

[DSWalker]

Sometimes the grain orientation can change how a board reflects light. As you walk around the table, do the breadboard ends suddenly become the shiny boards?

The ends are definately dull when compared to the top itself.

 

[DSWalker]

This is with the leaves safely tucked under the top. So at least if I don't get it fixed, it won't be noticeable all the time.

 

[Jeremy Scuteri]

You mentioned sanding. Any chance the ends were sanded to a lower grit? I suppose you could try to give everything a light sanding, maybe 220 grit and see if it evens out the look. The topcoat might even things out, but if it doesn't, things are a pain to correct at that point.

 

[DSWalker]

You mentioned sanding. Any chance the ends were sanded to a lower grit? I suppose you could try to give everything a light sanding, maybe 220 grit and see if it evens out the look. The topcoat might even things out, but if it doesn't, things are a pain to correct at that point.

That is what I'm thinking happened. One may have been to 150 and the other to 180. I know I used the belt sander on the table top, and only used the smaller 1/3 sheet sander on the ends. Thought I had the same grit paper, but just not positive.

 

[Jeff]

Wow, David! Nicely done. Curious. How was it building and fine tuning the sliding undercarriage that holds the end leaves for storage? Pic #4 is a tidy look too.

I suspect that the leaves and the table top boards have different grain patterns/textures no matter how you sanded them, but that's not a show stopper either. Interestingly stains aren't usually considered glossy or flat, however they do contain solid pigment particles and need to be well stirred to resuspend the particles in the medium when using them. Just an alternative thought (and fact).

Any suggestions?

Leave it be, don't fret, and carry on with your finishing schedule as planned. Your sister is gonna like it too!

 

[sawman101]

Regardless of how the final finish comes out, that is one fine, well built table David! Great craftsmanship again!

 

[DSWalker]

Wow, David! Nicely done. Curious. How was it building and fine tuning the sliding undercarriage that holds the end leaves for storage? Pic #4 is a tidy look too.

I cut the sliders exactly as on the plans. Well, as described on the plans. cut the slope at 1"x12" because that is the dimension of the leaves. I 'JUST' cut the second set last night and installed and then ran out for dinner. Haven't really looked that close, but one side was just a tiny bit lower that the top itself. I'll look into that this week and see if it is 'tweakable' with another set of the sliders.

 

[Travis Porter]

I suspect it is because of two different types of sanders, belt and sheet sander.

If it were me, I would lightly sand all of it with the sheet sander and put a light coat of stain. Don't sand to clear wood, but sand enough that it looks consistent. My .02 worth.

 

[Henry W]

Miinwax - "Stains and Seals"

Interestingly stains aren't usually considered glossy or flat, .....

Agreed, for most brands of stain but.... Minwax "Stains and Seals". There is a resin component in all the solvent based Minwax stains. That will impart some sheen.

Minwax Natural (without pigment or dye) seals the surface, much like other finishes; it imparts some golden/yellow color like most oil based finishes. I quite like it. Minwax Natural is useful as a dilutant/solvent to decrease the color of other stains or as a finish in and of itself.

 

[Wyatt Co.]

Re: Miinwax - "Stains and Seals"

All wood used came from the same stack?

150, 180, belt sander or ROS.......None of that should matter.

Stain isn't a finish

I hate stain and I hate paint so I'm extremely biased.

 

[Jeff]

I cut the sliders exactly as on the plans. Well, as described on the plans. cut the slope at 1"x12" because that is the dimension of the leaves. I 'JUST' cut the second set last night and installed and then ran out for dinner. Haven't really looked that close, but one side was just a tiny bit lower that the top itself. I'll look into that this week and see if it is 'tweakable' with another set of the sliders.

Or a hardwood shim glued on the that slider?

 

[Jeff]

Does that overall consistency and appearance really matter at the end of the day (the table leaves will likely be tucked away beneath the table top 50% of the time). It's a lot of work with minimal returns on the effort for a +50% show time in my opinion.

I like a good discussion so I'm not being cantankerous.

 

[DSWalker]

Re: Miinwax - "Stains and Seals"

All wood used came from the same stack?

150, 180, belt sander or ROS.......None of that should matter.

Stain isn't a finish

I hate stain and I hate paint so I'm extremely biased.

Yep, all the same stack, same tree. I had it milled 2 years ago.

 

[DSWalker]

Does that overall consistency and appearance really matter at the end of the day (the table leaves will likely be tucked away beneath the table top 50% of the time). It's a lot of work with minimal returns on the effort for a +50% show time in my opinion.

I like a good discussion so I'm not being cantankerous.

Good point and likely more like 95% of the time they will be tucked away. I may still exp just a little. Only time will tell.

Photos are of the FIX Jeff mentioned previously on one of the leaves being a little low. Added a shim and BAM, fixed her up.

 

[walnutjerry]

What has changed with the Minwax finishes? I have used their stain and poly for years and had no problems -----until recent years. About a year ago I refinished an oak table and had problems with the finish drying, about 6 months ago I built a table and bench for my granddaughter with the tops being cherry. My son applied the finish using stain and poly from Minwax and had issues with it curing. We both used a diluted poly (with MS) so the coats were wiped on so it was not a case of too heavy applications. Now I have been reading posts about the same type issues. Has there been a change the general public does not know about? Makes me wonder. BTW---the finishes I mentioned eventually cured but it took waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long.

Jerry

 

[danmart77]

Re: Miinwax - "Stains and Seals"

You are getting ahead of yourself here. The most important thing is how it will tone when you apply a finish. What I mean is the ends will match the table evenly.

So..

Take a rag and moisten it with some mineral spirits. Not soaked. Wipe the two surfaces and see how they look wet. This is close to what you will get when you apply your top coats. If you use poly the surface difference between 150 and 180 in really nothing.

Give it a try.

 

[MikeH]

Re: Miinwax - "Stains and Seals"

I don't have any input on the question at hand, but the table looks great and I do love the rich brown color of the table!

 

[TENdriver]

Re: Miinwax - "Stains and Seals"

BLUF...you could’ve finished everything to match perfectly and the reality is that the surface will change. If you keep the ends stowed and the other main top gets exposed to light, liquids, cleaners, spray waxes and abrasions from various projects, the top isn’t going to match for very long.

I think your topcoats will even out some of the variations. Probably even more so when you give the entire top it’s final finish sanding.