(Emergency) Wiring Help!!!!

[cpw]

The electrician is at the house working. He asked what type of receptacles I need for the 220 outlets in the shop - 125v or 240v?

I currently have no equipment and have never owned anything wired for 220 so I don't know the answer.

The only thing I know for sure is that I want to get a Clearvue CV1800. I know it needs to be on a 30Amp breaker, but what do I tell the electrician for outlets?

Thanks

 

[Mt. Gomer]

The electrician is at the house working. He asked what type of receptacles I need for the 220 outlets in the shop - 125v or 240v?

I currently have no equipment and have never owned anything wired for 220 so I don't know the answer.

The only thing I know for sure is that I want to get a Clearvue CV1800. I know it needs to be on a 30Amp breaker, but what do I tell the electrician for outlets?

Thanks

First, if you're going to run a 220 circuit then you definitley need outlets rated for 220 (240). Next, the outlets also must be rated to match the amperage of the circuit. So make sure he puts in outlets that are rated for 30A @ 240V. FYI: There are a few different types of plug/outlet combinatons (twist loc, etc). It really doesn't matter what he puts in now as long as it meets the above requirements. You can put a matching plug on your clearvue later.

Travis

 

[dlrion]

As long as you are torn into it I would say run your 220. It may be more expensive now, but it will pay off in tool longevity later. No, you don't absolutely need it but if he is there run 220.

 

[crokett]

First, if the circuit is 220, why is he asking whether you want 115 or 240V receptacles? If the circuit will be 220, you need a receptacle to support that.

Second, the receptacle doesn't really care whether you are running 220 vs 110 volts. I've seen 220 run on a regular grounded receptacle. The way you make a 110V circuit 220 is to replace the single pole breaker with a double and move the neutral from the bus bar to the 2nd pole on the breaker. What is more important is the amperage. The wiring comes into play because a 220 circuit can either be 4 wire (2 hots, neutral and ground) or 3 wire (2 hots and ground) Most tools in a workshop will be 3 wire. Dryers, ranges, etc require 4 wire because the control panels and the like are 110 and need the separate neutral as per the NEC. They would work fine wired to the ground on a 3-wire but that is not allowed since the mid-90s. That being said, when I wired my shop for my 220 circuits I used NEMA L6-20R receptacles as per this chart:

http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm

but only because one of my tools already had that kind of plug on it. I didn't need to pull 12-3, 12-2 would work but I also wanted the ability to rewire for 110V if I ever needed to.

 

[Mike Davis]

Be sure that someone can't come in and plug a 120V tool into your 220V circuits. Use a different type receptacle. Changing a plug is cheap, replacing a burnt motor can be expensive.

 

[striker]

If you don't have a ClearVue now I don't know that you're going to get one..... check out their website.

 

[zapdafish]

you might be able to call clearvue real quick and they can tell you about the receptacle.

that gives the motor power requirements

http://www.clearvuecyclones.com/Specifications.htm

Motor5 HP Leeson motor 230 Volts 1 Phase 20.8 FLA (Full Load Amps)

 

[reprosser]

What are you trying to get done - just a connection for ClearVue, or other things as well?

It seems odd that an electrician would ask if you wanted a 125v receptacle on a 220 volt outlet :icon_scra

Oh - for 30A breaker, you need to run 10 AWG wire.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I'd say the key thing is to get the lines run for 220/240 now and worry about the correct receptacle later. Just have him put in any receptacle that can handle that voltage w/ a 30 amp. breaker at the service panel. It's easy to come back later and change the receptacle at the outlet once you know what type plug you have. Just make sure you turn the power off at the breaker first.

Is he running 12/3 or 10/3 wiring? Either one can carry 220/240 volts, but the heavier wire (10/3) can carry more amps, which may come in handy later. Its better to pay a little extra now than wish you had the heavier wire later.

Bill

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Be sure that someone can't come in and plug a 120V tool into your 220V circuits. Use a different type receptacle. Changing a plug is cheap, replacing a burnt motor can be expensive.

+10000. There's a good reason 220 receptacles are configured differently!

 

[Skymaster]

The electrician is at the house working. He asked what type of receptacles I need for the 220 outlets in the shop - 125v or 240v?

Are you kidding? IF your so called electrician asked you that FIRE HIS BUTT NOW b4 he burns something down. :nah::no::swoon:
You should not be running anything less than 12 ga wire, 12/3 will allow 220 20A lines, 10/3 gets you up to 30A. NEVER run a recept,switch, or other device on a circuit with a different voltage than that which is spec'd by the mfg. ESPESHULLY if u put 110 receps on 220 line!!!!!!!!!!!!! THAT is instant disaster. Plug any 110 item into 220 and ZAP all gone and a fire is almost guaranteed

Find a REAL electrician

 

[crokett]

The receptacles don't know or care whether the voltage is 110 or 220. For that matter, they don't care about amperage until it exceeds their rating. :wink_smil The NEC allows 15A receptacles on 20A circuits. I wish I'd known that when I wired my shop, it would have saved me $$$. That said, I have seen 220 wired to an ordinary 3-prong receptacle. Heck, my jointer has an ordinary plug on it but could be wired for 220V. Most people are not going to put a new cord or plug on if they did the rewire. I agree that the danger there is plugging a 110V tool into that outlet and letting out the magic smoke.

 

[cpw]

The electrician is at the house working. He asked what type of receptacles I need for the 220 outlets in the shop - 125v or 240v?

Are you kidding? IF your so called electrician asked you that FIRE HIS BUTT NOW b4 he burns something down. :nah::no::swoon:
You should not be running anything less than 12 ga wire, 12/3 will allow 220 20A lines, 10/3 gets you up to 30A. NEVER run a recept,switch, or other device on a circuit with a different voltage than that which is spec'd by the mfg. ESPESHULLY if u put 110 receps on 220 line!!!!!!!!!!!!! THAT is instant disaster. Plug any 110 item into 220 and ZAP all gone and a fire is almost guaranteed

Find a REAL electrician

I am probably not quoting him correctly on the 125v vs. 240v thing since I don't speak "electrician". He's licensed, and insured and has a good reputation in this area. However, his background is industrial so I don't think he's had experience with any single phase WW equipment.

This chart really explains why I an so confused about this. One thing we did get clear is that all of the 220 will have 10/3. We agreed on a receptacle with one horizontal slot for the 220 20A and a different one with two slanted slots for the 220 30A.

However, when I get tools and go to put matching plugs on my motors, will it be obvious which wire goes to which prong? Is it possible to get the two hots be reversed? Or does it matter?

Thanks for all of the advice so far. I just know next to NOTHING about electricity.

 

[crokett]

On 220V it is not possible to reverse the hots. Doesn't matter which hot is on which pin. It is possible to get a hot wired to ground. That is bad.

If you look at this listing:
http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm

It has pinouts and tells you what gets wired where. Generally the ground will get wired to the differently shaped pin on the plug.

 

[cpw]

On 220V it is not possible to reverse the hots. Doesn't matter which hot is on which pin. It is possible to get a hot wired to ground. That is bad.

If you look at this listing:
http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm

It has pinouts and tells you what gets wired where. Generally the ground will get wired to the differently shaped pin on the plug.

Thanks David.

Is it generally easier to change the receptacle, or the plug?

 

[Bas]

Thanks David.

Is it generally easier to change the receptacle, or the plug?

Usually, it's easier to change the plug. For one, you don't need to shut off the breaker. There are also fewer screws to loosen/ tighten, no wires to twist etc.

 

[wayne]

The electrician is at the house working. He asked what type of receptacles I need for the 220 outlets in the shop - 125v or 240v?

I currently have no equipment and have never owned anything wired for 220 so I don't know the answer.

The only thing I know for sure is that I want to get a Clearvue CV1800. I know it needs to be on a 30Amp breaker, but what do I tell the electrician for outlets?

Thanks

Clearvue has ceased production and are looking to sell the company. Hate to be a bearer of bad news


wayne

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Charles: first, good decision on the 10/3 wire. Now you can run almost anything requiring 220 volts, assuming it's single phase.

Second, for 220 volts, both the black and white wires are hot, so it's not possible to get them reversed. In fact, most electricians will color code the white wire to black with either a magic marker or black electricians tape to let anyone know it's hot. You can screw up in the service panel, but unless you know what you're doing, you really don't need to be in there anyway: let the electrician do that for you.

Third, in my opinion, it's much easier to change a receptacle than a plug. Once you have your dust collector, or any 220 machine, see what the plug looks like and buy a receptacle that matches. You can get them at the BORG. FLIP THE CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF FIRST! Since the black and white wires are both hot, all you have to worry about is the ground wire, and that's usually green.

HTH, Bill Clemmons

 

[Skymaster]

for what it is worth, when I convert my machines over I buy both plug and recep at same time so they are a match. The second thing I do IS CUT OFF THE 110 PLUG. Third, go according to the schematic on the machine and change it over to 220, put plug on, and IF the recep is already in then just plug and play :gar-Bi:gar-Bi
As a rule for myself I use the SAME plugs and receps on all the SAME AMPERAGE circuits. What you want to avoid is NOT being able to plug into any outlet,anywhere in shop.
20A same plug & receps 30A DIFFERENT configuration but same principles:gar-Bi

 

[Mike Davis]

for what it is worth, when I convert my machines over I buy both plug and recep at same time so they are a match. The second thing I do IS CUT OFF THE 110 PLUG. Third, go according to the schematic on the machine and change it over to 220, put plug on, and IF the recep is already in then just plug and play :gar-Bi:gar-Bi
As a rule for myself I use the SAME plugs and receps on all the SAME AMPERAGE circuits. What you want to avoid is NOT being able to plug into any outlet,anywhere in shop.
20A same plug & receps 30A DIFFERENT configuration but same principles:gar-Bi

This is the best way to avoid a big headache. In the long run you want to be able to move your tools around as your shop grows and your tools change. Having all of the 220v 20a circuits with the same receptacle makes it easy to move the tool and hard to plug into the wrong voltage.

120V all the same

220V 20A all the same but different from 120v

220V 30A all the same and different from the other two.

It is crazy to have 14 different plugs with some that look the same yet have different voltage.

Standardize and make sure it is not possible to plug into the wrong thing.

Yes, YOU know and YOU will remember, but what about your wife, friend or brother?