Electrical Question with Table Saw

[cc4digital]

Well, I decided and purchased a G1023SLW. Seems the overall comments are good and I think it will last me my life time. I ordered it Monday, and I received email today saying that it was shipped.
"The following merchandise shipped 11/06/2006 via Fedex Freight West (Viking) from our Bellingham, WA warehouse:
(1) G1023SLX 10" LEFT TILT TABLESAW W/EXTENSION TABLE
(1) FEDXLIFTGATE FEDEX/VIKING LIFTGATE REQUESTED"

To my big surprise, I will be recieving on the 8th. That is really fast. I expected a week :eusa_clap Ok, that a free plug for FED-X and the higher price{hopefully it has a smooth ride:eusa_pray}

Anyway, onto my question. I am running electrical tonight or maybe in the morning and I was wondering how to run the wire. Makes for a challenge when it in the middle of a room.
Options:
A) Run it along the ground, but then it a tripping hazzard.
B) Drop it from the ceiling, but then it might be in the way when I am cutting a large panel.
C) Cut a slot in the floor. Not an option at this location.

So, what is your setup or suggestion, please? :drunken_s

 

[Grgramps]

This looks like one of those situations where a compromise must be made. My table saw is near a wall where the outlet is located and I don't have a problem with the cable on the floor. The cable for the shop vac is often on the floor, so I suppose I'm used to watching for it. Perhaps someone else can be more creative.
Roy

 

[b4man]

My saw is in the middle of the shop and the outlet is on the wall. I cover the cord with an anti-fatigue mat made of heavy rubber.

 

[McRabbet]

I am fortunate that I could install a floor outlet behind my saw, so the cord is not a problem. If that had not been an option, I would have run the cord over the floor from the right side of the saw, which will be the less traveled side. I find I move around my saw to its left side much more often than the right. Barbara's suggestion of a mat over the cord is an excellent solution. If you do not have your 220 volt outlet installed yet, I recommend #10 wire to it and three wire twist-lock receptacle and plug for the connection (L5-20R and L5-20P). If you haven't done so, I'd also suggest you download the manual from Grizzly and read through it before your saw arrives.

Rob

 

[chris99z71]

I agree with Rob that floor outlets are the way to go - if possible. I have a basement shop with a concrete floor, so I have my saw set up with ceiling outlets. If you put it far to the right of the saw, past the limit of fence travel, you'll never have to worry about it getting in the way of ripping wide sheet goods. Warning, this may mean having to replace the cord on your saw to get the extra length needed, but that's pretty minor.
I also agree with Rob on the #10 wire and twist locks. I went with the L6-30P plugs. The L5-20P is only rated for 20A, whereas the L6-30P is rated for 30A. My saw motor is labeled 22.4A (5hp), so I decided to standardize all of my (future) 220V machines to the L6-30P.
Also, if you're doing overhead outlets, make sure you use a device for cord strain relief like this:

(Grainger catalog 397, page 556, about $15)

Congrats on the new saw! :icon_thum

 

[Monty]

I don't blame anyone for running with the heaviest gauge wire... "just in case" it's needed for future upgrades, but it's more expensive and not necessary for your saw. Running a 12 gauge wire is appropriate for a 20 amp circuit.

 

[jtdums]

I have the same saw located in the center of my shop and I replaced the factory cord on the saw with one that could reach all the way to my wall outlet. This way when not in use I can simply coil and store the cord with the saw and not have it in the way either on the floor or above. Works for me. :icon_thum
You may want to get the correct plug end ready so you can fire it up tonight. (Not supplied with mine.) Also it helps to have a buddy ready to attach those heavy cast iron wings.

 

[SteveColes]

Well, as we speak, cord reels are being hung from my ceiling for my saw.

 

[zimman20]

Well, as we speak, cord reels are being hung from my ceiling for my saw.

Steve...you don't think that a hanging wire will get in your way while working on the TS? :eusa_thin

 

[chris99z71]

I don't know how this cord could be in the way...

If it's way over to the right side beyond the limit of fence travel, what's going to hit it?

 

[DavidF]

I have a ceiling drop and it comes down on the far right corner of the extension table. It has never been in the way. I have firmly attached it to the saw and a strain relief at the top end.

 

[cc4digital]

McRabbet: "If you do not have your 220 volt outlet installed yet, I recommend #10 wire to it and three wire twist-lock receptacle and plug for the connection (L5-20R and L5-20P). If you haven't done so, I'd also suggest you download the manual from Grizzly and read through it before your saw arrives."

Yep, that exactly what item I have purchased. It just a matter of how to run them. My current thought is to run it on the ground with watertight conduit. But I prefer to come down from the ceiling. When possible, I don't like electrical cords on the floor.:icon_thum

Regarding the manual. Done it.:icon_thum

 

[cc4digital]

Exactly:icon_thum

I agree with Rob that floor outlets are the way to go - if possible. I have a basement shop with a concrete floor, so I have my saw set up with ceiling outlets. If you put it far to the right of the saw, past the limit of fence travel, you'll never have to worry about it getting in the way of ripping wide sheet goods. Warning, this may mean having to replace the cord on your saw to get the extra length needed, but that's pretty minor.
I also agree with Rob on the #10 wire and twist locks. I went with the L6-30P plugs. The L5-20P is only rated for 20A, whereas the L6-30P is rated for 30A. My saw motor is labeled 22.4A (5hp), so I decided to standardize all of my (future) 220V machines to the L6-30P.
Also, if you're doing overhead outlets, make sure you use a device for cord strain relief like this:

(Grainger catalog 397, page 556, about $15)

Congrats on the new saw! :icon_thum

 

[cc4digital]

For electrical code you are correct. But when you are turning on a motors or heaters wire can get very hot. The larger gauge will give you some protection. That is why, I always try to stay away from extenstion cords. Solid wire vs strand wire. Solid wire wins every time.

It never happend to me{knock on wood}, but that is why I like conduit. If you have a wire melt down the sparks, smoke and flame stay in the conduit until the breaker trips.

My girl friend mother house had romex hooked to a attic fan. Not sure, why the breaker didn't trip, but the wired melted down{motor froze). It then mananged to arc off of itself{Kinda like welding} and started a fire in the attic. I HATE ROMEX. Personally, I think it should be illegal and house should be wired with at least flex conduit. Everyone is always worried about COST COST COST, Saftey play in backfield. With the statement Romex is good enough.

I don't blame anyone for running with the heaviest gauge wire... "just in case" it's needed for future upgrades, but it's more expensive and not necessary for your saw. Running a 12 gauge wire is appropriate for a 20 amp circuit.

 

[SteveColes]

Steve...you don't think that a hanging wire will get in your way while working on the tablesaw? :eusa_thin

Actually, that was how I did it before I bought the new saw. I jutsr pull enough cord down so it is out of my way. The only now will be a better quality reel and 220

 

[jmauldin]

My suggestion would be to use waterproof conduit (#12 is sufficient) and fasten it to the concrete floor with metal clips. You can drill small holes in the floor and use concrete anchors to hold them in place. That way you don't trip over them, nor do they move.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[kota62]

I have my T/S and workbench set up as an island, i mounted a 4 outlet switchable extension to the side of my T/S. I use this to run the saw as well as other power tools with only one cord on the ground
Gary

 

[cc4digital]

Yep, if I don't hang it from the ceiling that is exactly how I will do it. I will use #10 because of many reasons. But the short answer is it allows for me to change the breaker from 20 amps and run 30 amps without running new wire.
:icon_thum

My suggestion would be to use waterproof conduit (#12 is sufficient) and fasten it to the concrete floor with metal clips. You can drill small holes in the floor and use concrete anchors to hold them in place. That way you don't trip over them, nor do they move.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[cc4digital]

I like the island, cool idea. And you save a lot of space

 

[Travis Porter]

I had mine in the wall, but I have moved mine the ceiling. I have a tendency to trip (read I am clumsy) and it makes it hard to roll stuff over them. I moved mine to the ceiling when I ran my dust collector piping.