Dry spots in Finish

drchristian

New User
David
For the world of me I can’t figure out where sheesh splotches are coming from. Finished wit Minwax penetrating stain and Minwax wipe on poly. Sanded with 600 before applying stain and using aqua coat grain filler. It is only on one shelf on one table. Any thoughts?
 

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Mike Davis

Board of Directors, President
Mike
Corporate Member
DQ
Looks like the grain is soaking up the finish. Either didn't fill well enough or wasn't filler cured. I would sand with 220, apply another coat, let it dry then sand again with 400 or 600 if you wish but really no reason to sand oak that fine. Third coat should look great.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Corporate Member
DQ
I suspect the Aquacoat grain filler caused this. I have had similar problems when using Aquacoat. Seems the water-based product does not always play well with oil. I would sand lightly with 400, apply a coat of dewaxed shellac and then recoat with poly. Plus throw away the Aquacoat
 

Graywolf

Richard
Corporate Member
DQ
Phil, is correct, it's the same as surface contamination, sand seal and re coat.
 

drchristian

New User
David
I suspect the Aquacoat grain filler caused this. I have had similar problems when using Aquacoat. Seems the water-based product does not always play well with oil. I would sand lightly with 400, apply a coat of dewaxed shellac and then recoat with poly. Plus throw away the Aquacoat
 

drchristian

New User
David
What is your recommendation for a open pore grain filler, this is red oak. I sanded with 400 and re-coated and have same issue, just in different areas. I suspect it is the aqua coat. Attachedd is a closeup of the finish while still wet. The bright reflection is the overhead light. As you can see the fisheyes are crazy. This is all new wood and never been waxed.
 

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Phil S

Phil Soper
Corporate Member
DQ
Couple of questions
After you resanded, what did you recoat with?
Before you recoated it did you wipe it off with a rag or paper towel? Really need to know exactly as many cloths have waxes or silicone to help leave a polished look

As for fillers, I use Mohawk or Behlin products
 

drchristian

New User
David
Couple of questions
After you resanded, what did you recoat with?
Before you recoated it did you wipe it off with a rag or paper towel? Really need to know exactly as many cloths have waxes or silicone to help leave a polished look

As for fillers, I use Mohawk or Behlin products
Old clean T-shirt piece dampened in mineral spirits and blew off with air gun. Fist time I used automotive tack cloth but trying to eliminate problem did not use it on second or third coat. Just rag and mineral spirits. I have some automotive dewaxer but I was afraid to use it on Helmsman poly.
 

drchristian

New User
David
Old clean T-shirt piece dampened in mineral spirits and blew off with air gun. Fist time I used automotive tack cloth but trying to eliminate problem did not use it on second or third coat. Just rag and mineral spirits. I have some automotive dewaxer but I was afraid to use it on Helmsman poly.
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Corporate Member
DQ
Old clean T-shirt piece dampened in mineral spirits and blew off with air gun. Fist time I used automotive tack cloth but trying to eliminate problem did not use it on second or third coat. Just rag and mineral spirits. I have some automotive dewaxer but I was afraid to use it on Helmsman poly.
OK the cloth with MS is good but did you then seal with shellac - if not the problem will just keep coming back
 

drchristian

New User
David
OK the cloth with MS is good but did you then seal with shellac - if not the problem will just keep coming back
No, was not sure if poly and shellacking were comparable. Just sanded with 400 then cleaned with rag with mineral spirits and revolted with poly. Can I put shellack sealer over poly? I really appreciate your help.
 

Jeff

Jeff
Corporate Member
DQ
I know that red and white oak have open grain but why are you using a grain filler to hide that characteristic to begin with? Yes, you want a smooth finish but grain filling isn't necessary to get that.

Sanding to 400 & 600 grit is overkill before staining and grain filling because you've ended up burnishing the wood surface. You should have only sanded to 120-150g.

It's 1 out of 2 bottom shelves and the rest of the piece is fine? Maybe that's a weird piece of red oak in that shelf.



What is your recommendation for a open pore grain filler, this is red oak. I sanded with 400 and re-coated and have same issue, just in different areas. I suspect it is the aqua coat. Attachedd is a closeup of the finish while still wet. The bright reflection is the overhead light. As you can see the fisheyes are crazy. This is all new wood and never been waxed.
 
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Phil S

Phil Soper
Corporate Member
DQ
What needs to happen is to create a separation between the aqua coat and the poly. That is what the shellac was for.
You could shellac right now and then add more poly but that will probably make the finish to thick and somewhat cloudy.
I would definitely sand the poly off, add a barrier coat of shellac and then add poly for durability if you want. Did you throw out that aqua coat ??
 

drchristian

New User
David
I am trying something new by getting a smooth top but the rest of the bedside table will be more traditional finish. The bottom shelf has more exposed grain to the touch with a wipe on poly finish. I always thought you should use a grain filler on open grain woods. I am trying to get better at finishing which is my weakness.
 

drchristian

New User
David
Just got back from woodcraft store with some dewaxed shellac. Acqacoat in the trash. Picked up some Behlem grain filler. Going to build queen size bed frame next. Thank you for all your help it is appreciated very much. I wish we had a local club so we could learn from each other
 

bowman

Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
DQ
There are quite a few members in the Concord/Charlotte area, so maybe someone will reach out to you.
 

tarheelz

Dave
Corporate Member
DQ
Unpopular Opinion: Aquacoat works really well for me one once I got the hang of it. (If you put it on too thick, it creates more work than it ever helps.) I've used it under Waterlox on multiple occasions. Never had a contamination/finish adherence problem.
 

drchristian

New User
David
I just had an epiphany, I bet I know where the contamination is coming from. A couple times a week I coat my tool cast surfaces with a rust inhibitor, lubricant. It is in a spay can. I did not cover my project and I bet some over spray got on the raw wood. My project was pieces were probably close enough to get contaminated. I'll bet the spray contains silicon.
 

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