drawer slides

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Keye

Keye
Corporate Member
Next project is going to be bathroom vanities made similar to the old wash stands. I am going to have two doors like the old wash stands but I will make them a little wider so I can have drawers down one side. The drawers will not be very big so the slides will not need to carry very much weight. I really have no experience with drawer slides, except the cheap ones on the drawers in my shop. I really want to keep this simple and within reason as far as cost. I would love to do overlay drawers but I do not think they would look right with the style I am using. I also do not want to go to all the trouble as if I were making a fine piece of furniture. Sure would appreciate recommendations.:dontknow:

If anyone has built anything like this I sure would love to see some pictures. Oh, the sinks are going to be the vessel type that sit completely on top of the vanity. I just learned they are called vessel sinks from an earlier post:eusa_danc:eusa_danc.
 

russellellis

New User
Russell
You could always use the dado cut slide. That is the widest drawer box configuration i know of. But if not, then even hd and lowes carries bottom mount slides that are completely hidden, fully extend and carry a good bit of weight. plus they are easy to install.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Also there is nothing wrong with not using a slide mechanism at all. Just let the drawers ride in the opening. You'll need to make some L shaped guides that span across the dust frame. For small drawers that will have a face frame or divider between them that is the route I would go.
You might be able to see what I am talking about here in a drawer I made in a Greene & Greene styled sofa table -
B-day_gifts.jpg


HTH,
Dave:)
 

russellellis

New User
Russell
That is another perfect way. i would just add to that to make sure you also include top rails. so that when the drawer is pulled more than halfway out, the drawer will tilt down (obviously) and those top rails will keep it from falling down to the floor.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Good point, I did include them in that project, although not at the tolerances I would have liked. You can see in the pic that I get a little tip when the drawer is pulled out. Another thing to add is the use of a stop. I used a dry fitted dowel to keep the drawer from being pulled out all the way..and falling on my child :new_shock. As long as you can have access to the bottom of the drawer in the casework, you can do something like that. I would recommend not doing it with the bottom drawer as it couldn't fall enough to harm anyone and that will give you access to the bottom of the rest of the drawers.
Dave:)
 

Keye

Keye
Corporate Member
Dave, your way would be what I would typically lean toward but this time I am really trying to be lazy and just have some screws to put in.

I guess I really need to get off my duff and figure out the final design. I gave up golf for horses many years ago but when it is Masters week I still am glued to the TV. I went for twenty straight years so I really love the place. During Masters week I hardly get anything else done.
 

newtonc

New User
jak
Don't get me started about what I think of the quality of things found at the Depot,but...
I was there last weekend and they had a clearance sale on a lot of their drawer slides of various weights and lenghts.Only $3-4 a piece.Normal price @ $10+.
I took all of the 100lb rated ones they had.I have some shop storage I'm building that they will work out just fine with.At that price I wasn't going to complain.
I would bet most Depots are doing a similar thing,it might be worth a look.But I would get something a little nicer if it was going in my kitchen,something more durable and self closing perhaps.But they might be perfect for a bathroom project.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
I am preferential to these from Blum, and I am using them on the kitchen and bathrooms project I am working on. The Borg sells them as well as wwhardware.com. Model number blum 230M 3/4 extension slide epoxy coated. They have nice nylon rollers and mount to the side/bottom with screws. I like the fact they are epoxy coated to deal with the moisture levels in kitchens and baths, and the price is around $5 or so a pair depending on length. They take a 1/2" space on each side, and you can build a drawer box and just fit a false front over it. Make them overlay or not, your call. The cabinets I am building and using these on are frameless to give perspective.

 

DavidF

New User
David
My only comment would be to get the design sorted out first to get an overall feel for dimensions and then find the runners and then tweak the drawer dims to fit. I ran foul of not doing that. I made the cabs and drawers first and when I came to look for slides I couldn't find any that would fit!
 

Kicbak

New User
Wes
I've have also used the ones Travis is talking about. I did two smaller drawers on my miter saw cabinet. They work well. I can't remember exactly but in over to get the drawer in don't you need 3/4" on top b/c you angle the drawer into the tracks to put the drawer into place. The are also easy to use b/c its 1/2" on each side so you can easily make the drawer size and inch smaller then the opening.

Wes
 
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