Drawer Construction question

[Travis]

I have another concern about drawer construction. What thickness should I use for the plywood bottoms. A little worried about the bottom sagging given the width of the drawers and the weight of clothes. Should I consider some type of support in the center of drawer underneath the plywood. Was planning on using full extension drawer slides attached to sides only. I did not give consideration to bottom support until today.:eusa_doh:

 

[adowden]

One thing I just did for a file cabinet where the weight was going to be on the bottom was to glue a piece of luan under a piece of 1/4 oak to add extra support. The overall thickness was around 0.40". I was very pleased with the extra strength this added.

Amy

 

[McRabbet]

Travis,

I would think that the narrow drawers in the center section will be fine with 1/4" plywood set in the sides, front and back (most of us set that dado 1/2" above the bottom of the sides). For the wider drawers at the right and far left, I would glue a 7/16" high strip of hardwood to the underside of the drawer bottom, running across the width of the drawer and forming a mini-"I"beam under the drawer bottom to add strength.

Rob

 

[4yanks]

You could also use 1/2" solid wood boards ship lapped (dry) with 1/4" tongues on the ends to slide into the same 1/4" grooves that the plywood pannels would have fit in. Where the last board goes under the drawer back screw it to the back using an elongated hole to allow for movement.

 

[Nativespec]

You could use 3/8" plywood. I have used 1/4" with supports in the center, but 3/8" does not give that "chinsy" sound that the 1/4" does and 3/8" does not cost much more.

Thanks,

David

 

[Joe Scharle]

Classic drawer construction calls for bottom stringers to give span support at roughly 15"-18" apart. They could also function as rub rails on a web frame if they're flush with the drawer bottoms. The drawer panels fit in grooves and inside the drawer the rub rails need be only 1/8" - 3/16" above the grooves and rounded over. The tenons will be short but do provide strenght. Maybe this pic helps explain.
Joe

 

[cpowell]

You've already received great advice!!

I would add that Baltic birch ply seems to be MUCH stronger than the crap at the BORG...and looks pretty darn good, too. If you use a center support as Joe suggested (a very nice look, Joe), 1/4 BB ply would work.

3/8 BB ply if you intend to store steel in them or just like overkill. :lol:

Chuck

 

[Travis]

Great, sounds like there are numerous solutions. I will probably go with the BB and runner or I beam on the middle bottom of the drawer.

 

[Dutchman]

Travis,
I think the 1/4" bb will be fine if it is captured in a groove in the front, sides and back. One thing you can do to really lock the bottom in and strengthen the drawer is to add drawer glue blocks - (glued to the sides, back front and to the bottom.) Just make sure your drawers are good and square before you add the glue blocks, they will not move after you add the glue blocks.

 

[Gofor]

Dry clothes do not weigh a lot (how thick is the bottom of your laundry basket?). However, a lot of pressure can be added when people try to put 3 cubic foot of clothes in a 2 cubic foot drawer:lol::lol:. 1/4 is plenty strong, but if over 24" width, you may want a center brace or use a centered slide runner.

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