DP table, version 2

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Got a new DP earlier this year and temporarily used my previous table. Version 2 is the same overall design with a few dimension changes and improvements. The fence is WoodRiver and I bought an extra flip stop for it.
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The top and bottom layers are 1/2” BB ply and the middle layer is 5/8” BB ply. I extended the T-tracks for the fence a bit and that does make blind insertion by feel of the fence nut easier when re-installing the fence.
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The T-track is slightly thicker than 1/2” BB and a router plane was the ideal tool to deepen the groove slightly.
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The Kreg auto-adjust clamps have served me well. I almost always snap down both clamps or at least one clamp and the fence. No more whirling stock.
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The clamps came with a piece of slippery adhesive plastic tape that kept twisting. I made these HDPE saddles and so far seem to be an improvement.
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With a 2-1/2” Forstner, here are four positions on one side of a 5” square sacrificial insert. I miscut the square hole position by about 1/2”.
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With the slight bevel on the table, the elevator crank seems to have enough clearance.
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Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
I think that is GREAT!

I don't have the data, but I should look it up - there is a claim that the most occurrences of injury in the shop are from the operator "attempting" to hold a piece of stock during a drilling operation...
(I argued years ago that it couldn't be as dangerous as a miter saw or table saw, but at that time (late 90's) the list was long - broken wrist, cuts and abrasions in the hand or forearm and then impacts or other eye damage!)

Even if the data is not overwhelming, the short answer is- "Lock your stock!"
 

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
I did a show&tell on the above DP table tonight and this Kreg Autoclamp improvement caught the eye of several Triangle Woodworkers Association members. They had the same problem that I had with the original flimsy rectangular washer not staying put. The fix is a simple saddle made from slippery plastic like a cutting board.
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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
Nice build indeed!
Thanks. After a year and a half, it has worked pretty well for me. One hand to position the stock and the other to lock the first clamp. Then the second clamp.
Sometimes a quill handle would hit a clamp so I removed two handles and just use one.

The vac port sometimes gets most of the chips, other times not. I keep a cheap paintbrush nearby to sweep any remaining chips into the port after I remove the stock.
 

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
After a few years of use, a minor design error of mine has emerged. The fence hold-down runs out of t-track about 3/4” (my finger) too soon. Re-engaging the t-bolts interrupts my work flow enough to be a PITA. Here is the situation:
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I need remake the table and extend it back a couple of inches (with a notch for the post) to support longer tracks.
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Mike, I look forward to seeing your design modifications. Your tool and jig modifications are usually innovative or practical...or both!
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
A DP table is on my list. Probably the next shop upgrade after my next woodworking project. I like those clamps as my regular vise-lock drill press clamp is a pain to snug the ring below the table every time you move it. I gather the down pressure on the clamp also locks it onto the track. I do as much metal work though so I wonder if they hold firm enough. I was thinking about affixing the fence to one of those clamp/cutting guide. Maybe I should just stick with SOP and the T-tracks but affix the table with the clamp/guides to make switching from woodwork to metalwork quicker.

I love those gear jobs that move the crank and lock forward, but that is a lot of work and I hate my drill press anyway. Taiwan Delta. POS. Sheaves not round, quill play, not much more rigid than the Sears bench-top I hade before. No, can't justify a Nova.
 

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Man with many vises
Corporate Member
A DP table is on my list. Probably the next shop upgrade after my next woodworking project. I like those clamps as my regular vise-lock drill press clamp is a pain to snug the ring below the table every time you move it. I gather the down pressure on the clamp also locks it onto the track. I do as much metal work though so I wonder if they hold firm enough. I was thinking about affixing the fence to one of those clamp/cutting guide. Maybe I should just stick with SOP and the T-tracks but affix the table with the clamp/guides to make switching from woodwork to metalwork quicker.

I love those gear jobs that move the crank and lock forward, but that is a lot of work and I hate my drill press anyway. Taiwan Delta. POS. Sheaves not round, quill play, not much more rigid than the Sears bench-top I hade before. No, can't justify a Nova.
Down pressure does lock the clamp to the track.

I have a small shop yet 3 DPs: 1) Small Skil benchtop (my initial DP), 2) benchtop Nova pictured above primarily for woodworking, and 3) elderly floor model Craftsman with a cross-slide vise primarily for metal working and tall things and I would not give up any of them.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Thinking through this morning. Here is a concept for holding the woodworking table on the metal working table:
Table would sit on a riser block screwed to the two clamps. Naturally with the T-tracks, replaceable center, fence, dust collection...

Quick on and off so I would bother to use it. Not sure if the compliance of the clamps would have any play. As I type this, I am having second thoughts. Maybe better to attach with up-side down drill press Vise-grips as the clamps.
 

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pop-pop

Man with many vises
Corporate Member
After a few years of use, a minor design error of mine has emerged. The fence hold-down runs out of t-track about 3/4” (my finger) too soon. Re-engaging the t-bolts interrupts my work flow enough to be a PITA. Here is the situation:
View attachment 228539

I need remake the table and extend it back a couple of inches (with a notch for the post) to support longer tracks.

Rather than make a redesigned table, I figured there must be an in situ solution. I used new longer t-tracks with plywood extension support brackets.
IMG_5334.jpeg


Each table extension bracket looks like this:
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Grooving the table extensions beforehand made an in situ solution easy.
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Here is my DP table ready for use and no more risk of the fence slipping off the end of the t-tracks.
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