Issue: Upper wheel will not turn without scraping on upper wheel housing.
Background:
When I bought this saw used (28-203 w/riser block), it was tuned to perfection by former owner ( older gentleman).
I used the saw for 2 yrs with no problems. The only upgrade was I put urethane tires on wheels.
Then somehow (don't ask me how because I don't know), I broke the bolt that adjusts the tracking arm.
I tried to drill out the bolt while it was on the saw, but stopped because I was afraid I would damage the threads on the sliding bracket casting.
I was afraid to tear into it because I'm not really super mechanically inclined.
I left it that way for months, leaving the blade that was in the saw at the time and was tracking correctly.
I finally bit the bullet and called Iturra Design to order a new sliding bracket. He said he had none and couldn't source any. He called me back later and said a Jet sliding bracket would work.
When I received the new part, I removed the wheel and the original Delta bracket.
The only difference between the Delta and Jet bracket was the Jet bracket had 2 set screws on one side where the pin for the adjusting arm goes through.
Being an idiot, I centered the pin in the bracket with the set screws, however, I tightened the set screws, instead of leaving a small amount of play so the adjusting arm could swing.
That is when the real trouble started.
After replacing the wheel, I noticed that I couldn't turn the wheel by hand (no blade), without it scraping the upper housing, no matter which direction I turned the adjusting bolt. (I'm surprised that the bolt even turned because I had tightened those set screws).
I thought that if I put a blade on and tensioned the blade, the wheel might pull away from the housing. As I increased the tension (only to the 1/8" blade mark using a 3/8" blade, I heard a loud snap.
I took the wheel back off and removed the bracket, only to find one side of the bracket with the set screw broke off (because I had tightened the set screws).
The bracket is still usable I think, because it will still hold the pin, but only one set screw is on the bracket.
I really don't know what I did wrong ( besides tightening the set screws).
The wheel would not turn without scraping even before it broke. I did not change anything else.
I took the original Delta sliding bracket to a machine shop to have them remove the bolt without damaging the threads on the casting. I will then try to re-install it and hope all my problems go away. Maybe it was just the Jet sliding bracket actually won't work on a Delta, even though it fits.
Can anyone think of any other reason my wheel won't turn without scraping the housing?
Sorry for the extra long drawn out post, but I've tried to explain my situation in detail in hopes of getting some guidance.
To be continued......
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Background:
When I bought this saw used (28-203 w/riser block), it was tuned to perfection by former owner ( older gentleman).
I used the saw for 2 yrs with no problems. The only upgrade was I put urethane tires on wheels.
Then somehow (don't ask me how because I don't know), I broke the bolt that adjusts the tracking arm.
I tried to drill out the bolt while it was on the saw, but stopped because I was afraid I would damage the threads on the sliding bracket casting.
I was afraid to tear into it because I'm not really super mechanically inclined.
I left it that way for months, leaving the blade that was in the saw at the time and was tracking correctly.
I finally bit the bullet and called Iturra Design to order a new sliding bracket. He said he had none and couldn't source any. He called me back later and said a Jet sliding bracket would work.
When I received the new part, I removed the wheel and the original Delta bracket.
The only difference between the Delta and Jet bracket was the Jet bracket had 2 set screws on one side where the pin for the adjusting arm goes through.
Being an idiot, I centered the pin in the bracket with the set screws, however, I tightened the set screws, instead of leaving a small amount of play so the adjusting arm could swing.
That is when the real trouble started.
After replacing the wheel, I noticed that I couldn't turn the wheel by hand (no blade), without it scraping the upper housing, no matter which direction I turned the adjusting bolt. (I'm surprised that the bolt even turned because I had tightened those set screws).
I thought that if I put a blade on and tensioned the blade, the wheel might pull away from the housing. As I increased the tension (only to the 1/8" blade mark using a 3/8" blade, I heard a loud snap.
I took the wheel back off and removed the bracket, only to find one side of the bracket with the set screw broke off (because I had tightened the set screws).
The bracket is still usable I think, because it will still hold the pin, but only one set screw is on the bracket.
I really don't know what I did wrong ( besides tightening the set screws).
The wheel would not turn without scraping even before it broke. I did not change anything else.
I took the original Delta sliding bracket to a machine shop to have them remove the bolt without damaging the threads on the casting. I will then try to re-install it and hope all my problems go away. Maybe it was just the Jet sliding bracket actually won't work on a Delta, even though it fits.
Can anyone think of any other reason my wheel won't turn without scraping the housing?
Sorry for the extra long drawn out post, but I've tried to explain my situation in detail in hopes of getting some guidance.
To be continued......
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
