Deck Replacement

[steviegwood]

Hi Y'all, I have a deck that is in need of the top boards being replaced. It is 2x6x8 and 2x6x10 treated pine. There are 54-8' and 95-10' and 1-2x8x10. I would like to replace the top with something better than the treated pine as it is not a covered deck and will not be covered anytime soon. The framing system that is there is on 3' centers but I can use a lot of the deck boards that I will be taking off for more framing if needed. I would like to have something that will not warp and bow so bad as the weather gets to it and the sun draws it. Also something that does not take a lot of maintenance would be nice. Any and all suggestions of what kind of wood that would be best for this and/or other materials. Thanks, Steve

 

[Dragon]

You might want to look into some of the newer composite stuff for decking. I hear it's the cat's meow in some applications.

 

[CrealBilly]

I love my ERC (eastern red cedar) pool deck - milled the heartwood deck boards 1 1/8" thick x 5 3/4" planed them down to 1" thick by 5 1/5" wide, I even planed the edges with a simple planer jig some of the boards were 20' long. I then used my router with a 3/8" round over bit and and bull nosed both edges. Beat the board down with 10d galv screw shank nails. It's turned a nice gray color and has not moved a bit, when you walk on it and it's stiff, not at all ike a PT pine deck and being ERC it'll out last PT any day.

hint: blunt your nail tips with a few hammer hits to avoid splitting - like most nails the points are to sharp

Here's a good overview http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/deck.handbook2.htm

 

[LeftyTom]

On using the composite, they may say you do not need to drill pilot holes, but you do. Else you will twist right many stainless steel screws.

 

[Gofor]

"Recycling" some of the current boards into additional framing (adding one between the 3' centers) will help, and will be definitely needed if using composites (they flex more than grained lumber).

Go

 

[steviegwood]

"Recycling" some of the current boards into additional framing (adding one between the 3' centers) will help, and will be definitely needed if using composites (they flex more than grained lumber).

Go

I have been looking at the TREX and it has to be braced 12"oc. If I have to have that much bracing at the cost of it I will just start sandwiching 2x6's together. When it gets bad on top just rent a floor sander and have at it. I would like to have 2x6 cedar or something to hold up to the weather. I wonder what 2x6 locust would be like? they use it for fence post. Steve

 

[gritz]

The 3 foot centers would be the first thing to address. Most lumberyards have span tables for Southern yellow pine. There was once a theory that 2x decking would allow you to cheat on the framing, but that never works. The 2x material spanning three feet has too much movement and "sun pull" so it warps and twists and pops the nails out. Hammering them back in does no good.

What is important to know now is the age, size, and span of the framing so you can be sure you support the new decking correctly. Also, be sure the deck is through-bolted to the band joist of the house, that the posts are properly secured with Simpson steel connectors and that they are correctly braced.

As a contractor, I always built a deck at least as hefty as a house. Always using 16 inch centers for (usually 2x10) framing and 5/4x6 treated wood for the decking. If you will use a hidden fastener system, apply CWF defender by Flood on the new deck and follow it up with a yearly coat of CWF-UV-5, your economical treated pine deck will last 30 to 40 years, be cool to the feets and look good as well. Always wear gloves and a mask when handling treated wood.

Good luck.

 

[Gotcha6]

Would an overlay onto the existing decking work without bringing up clearance problems? Or would this create an interface for water to stand via capillary action and cause the 2 woods/composite to decay faster?