Cutting Mortise for Loose Tenon

[rick7938]

I am working out the plans for shelf units for my son and his wife as a Christmas gift. I previously asked the question about the best type of joinery to use and the concensus seemed to be mortise and loose tenon.

I am planning on using a router with edge quide on a jig to cut the mortises on the ends of the short rails, but there are 6 rails on a horizontal shelf unit that will be at least 4-feet long, so they won't fit in my jig because they are too long.

I have decided to try to build a jig that fits on the fence of my rounter table that holds the rail vertically over the router table and will slide along the fence cutting the mortise about 1/4-in per pass. Does anyone have a better solution? If that jig works well, I may cut all of the mortises in the rails with the jig. I am planning to cut the mortises in the stiles by holding the stile against the router fence and dropping it on to the bit increasing the depth of cut about 1/4-inch per pass.

Any comments or suggestions on the technique? This is my first try at mortise and loose tenon.

Thanks

 

[Nativespec]

The Domino starts at $660. The "Bead Lock" is about $40. The Domino is one sweet tool. The Bead Lock works OK, but I found the stock to be very tight fitting and I ended up sanding the loose tenon (Bead Lock stock) in order to fit-I was not terribly pleased with it and I bought the Domino-the Bead Lock may be worth a try.

The method you describe above sounds kind of scary.

David

 

[DaveO]

Personally, if I am remembering your project correctly, I would make mortises on the vertical members and integral tenons on the horizontal members. At least on the middle section where the horizontal stock is so long. The integral tenons can be made on the table saw with a dado blade and miter guage.
Dave

 

[rick7938]

You may be right, Dave. I just bought a new dado set, so that isn't a problem. I guess that I am most concerned about the mortises. I probably could buy a cheap hollow-chisel mortiser for the same amount as the stock that I will waste if I mess up the mortises on the router.

I could buy a mortising attachment for my drill press, but they cost about as much as the HF mortiser. I can't begin to afford the Domino although I saw it at the WC shop in Raleigh and it looks nice.

Thanks for the insight.

 

[NCPete]

Rick, if you are up for a run to Hope Mills, I know where there is a mortiser you could use;-). just bear in mind that the owner works in retail, and is also currently installing a kitchen, so [strike]his[/strike] my schedule isn't exactly wide open right now I have the nice, heavy, cast-iron base Delta

 

[rick7938]

Thanks for the offer, Pete. I will contact you by PM when I have my stock dressed to size. My only warning is that I am notorious for picking brains for information, but I do go home eventually.

Thanks for the offer.

 

[McRabbet]

Rick,

Here is another method for cutting mortises for loose tenon joinery. I made the jig described in this thread a little over a year ago and it works well for cutting mortises in rails and stiles for raised panel doors. I'm about to use it with my 1/4" Trend plunge router and a 1/4" upcut spiral bit to make M&T joints that will strengthen the joints in 14 sets of doors I'm making for a large commission project -- I will cut these in the rail ends and stile sides where they'll be joined, but I'll also use my rail and stile bits to create the ogee transition and panel groove. The loose tenons will be 1" wide x 2" long x 1/4" thick, made of the same White Oak I'm using for the doors. Extra work, but a stronger joint.

The jig is fairly easy to make and can be used with a larger plunge router. I can send you the plans from ShopNotes if you want them; just PM me.

Rob

 

[rhett]

You should have no trouble cutting the mortises with a plunge router and a fence. Clamp a set of the stiles together mark them all at the same time and get to routing. With an upcut spiral bit and a couple light passes it should be done in no time. Keeping the stock clamped gives your router more surface to ride on. You don't even need stops, you can cut to the line by sight. Any variation in width will be taken care of with the shoulders of the rails. Your idea for routing loose tenons on the rail ends is exactly right. Taking your time and using your head often overrides the need to buy expensive gizmos. That just leaves more money for wood.

 

[NCPete]

Thanks for the offer, Pete. I will contact you by PM when I have my stock dressed to size. My only warning is that I am notorious for picking brains for information, but I do go home eventually.

Thanks for the offer.

I'll try to make sure Michael is there so that you can get some worthwhile information while picking brains:lol: