Commissioned dining table WIP

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DavidF

New User
David
Just a reminder. The picture is in Isometric with no perspective added to show the top design.

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The QSWO was bought about 4 weeks ago from the hardwood store and was left for a week in the shop on a rack. I partially milled the pieces to just remove the "skin" and let them breath a little. A week later they were milled flat and square, but still not to finished dims. The next week they were finish milled to dims, but left long and the coopered pieces left slightly wide to allow for the bevel. BTW whoever said that QS doesn't move is wrong!! it may not cup, but it's still a bear to keep straight and flat in these conditions.

The full length staves are 1 1/2" and the cut staves are 1 1/4 to give a shadow line between the pieces. The bevel is 2 deg cut on the TS. The Wickey gauge was real bonus here!!! The cut staves were beveled long and then cross cut to 6". The arch jig is simply MDF and poplar with the side cut to 2 deg to hold the pieces. The two screws in the sides are put in at an angle to force the piece down and back in the jig. I bought a shear cut bit specifically for this job knowing that the end grain could present a problem. The cut was perfect.

The last pictures show the pieces laid out in their final pattern. All the pieces have been kept in their original plank. IE, Each complete end assy is from just two pieces of wood, the solid staves from one and the cut staves from another. The next job is to mill a 1 1/4 wide 1/16th deep groove in the beveled edges of the long staves, just the length of the cut pieces as a glue up aid, this should stop then moving about too much during glue up. I may put a single dowel in each to stop them sliding lengthwise.

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The bottoms will be flush, but the bench wasn't wide enough!!!!

BTW 12 hrs in machining time so far.
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
I am WAYYY behind on reading posts. I looked at the first 3 pics for 10 mins (especially the 3rd) and had no clue how this went together. Look at the 4th pic and DOH!

How did the flush trim bit you used do? Cuts pretty clean?
 
J

jeff...

You keep this up were going to have to nickname you Mr. Radius Angle.

That QSWO sure would look great with a clear finish ;-)
 

DavidF

New User
David
I am WAYYY behind on reading posts. I looked at the first 3 pics for 10 mins (especially the 3rd) and had no clue how this went together. Look at the 4th pic and DOH!

How did the flush trim bit you used do? Cuts pretty clean?

Hi Travis - the FIRST pic was supposed to give it away:lol:

The shear cut bit worked as I hoped, a good clean cut and the jig prevented breakout on the edges.

Since then I have machined all the through mortices, 18 altogether and put a bevel on the arc of all the cut staves (pics next week). I'm back in CA this week until Saturday evening so another day missed in the shop!

Thanks for your help with the bigger pieces.
 

DavidF

New User
David
Nice design David. Did you draw that picture? If so, what program did you use?

Hi Mike, yes, the design and the pic is mine. Solidworks with the Photoworks plug in. I really like the results. Plenty of trial renderings to get the lighting etc right, but really gives a good feel for what the end result is going to be.
 

DavidF

New User
David
You keep this up were going to have to nickname you Mr. Radius Angle.

That QSWO sure would look great with a clear finish ;-)

Hey, this straight line stuff (well almost) is so easy! no wonder Mr Stickley produced all his stuff this way:lol: :lol:

I have in mind General Finishes "seal-a-cell) and Arm-a-cell for the finish. I want a "Mission" type amber glow to it. No Stain, you can be sure of that.:lol:
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Plan, design, execute. You make it look so easy :cool:
Heck, your jigs look better than most of my stuff :lol:
Thanks for sharing!

Roger
 

DavidF

New User
David
Plan, design, execute. You make it look so easy :cool:
Heck, your jigs look better than most of my stuff :lol:
Thanks for sharing!

Roger

As Eagle would say "I just ran it through the table saw a few times and it came out that way" :lol: :lol:
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
Looking good so far, David. :icon_thum Great writeup with clear explanations and accompanying pics. I love the shot of the shear bit. Thanks for adding thickness details. It wasn't apparent from the pics that the stock was that thick.

I find myself being more and more careful with stock dimensioning as I gain experience. The wood MC seems to be very dynamic this time of year.

I wouldn't have the patience to cut a groove to accept the full width of the cut staves...especially on the joint between the straight stave groove with flat portion of the curved edge on the cut staves. But, looking closer at the curved end profile of the cut staves, I can see that it's all been planned out. :)

Keep the pics coming, you're really on a roll now. At this rate you should be able to easily finish in 2007. :lol: :lol:

Chuck
 

DavidF

New User
David
Looking good so far, David. :icon_thum Great writeup with clear explanations and accompanying pics. I love the shot of the shear bit. Thanks for adding thickness details. It wasn't apparent from the pics that the stock was that thick.

I find myself being more and more careful with stock dimensioning as I gain experience. The wood MC seems to be very dynamic this time of year.

I wouldn't have the patience to cut a groove to accept the full width of the cut staves...especially on the joint between the straight stave groove with flat portion of the curved edge on the cut staves. But, looking closer at the curved end profile of the cut staves, I can see that it's all been planned out. :)

Keep the pics coming, you're really on a roll now. At this rate you should be able to easily finish in 2007. :lol: :lol:

Chuck

Yes, if you look closely there is a small flat portion before the curve starts that was dimensioned to just be hidden in the 1/16th groove; it will be a "tad" wider at the back because of the 2 deg bevel.

Target delivery date is Thanks Giving! no table, no dinner! well on course at the moment, but the Shoji is going to be fun. The long pieces will need to be laminated into a long arc to spring against the table top as it needs to be removable for transport and therefore can't be glued. Why do I do this???
 

DavidF

New User
David
Latest progress:

First up was putting the bevel cut on the short staves around the curve. The curve is on the end grain so tear out was almost assured. The jig is a very tight fit on the stave and has run in and run off supports. The cuts were made in two passes with no tearout.

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Next up was fitting the short staves to the long ones. My aim was to sit the short staves into a 1/16th deep groove to aid glue up and alignment, unfortunately the bevel on the ends of the short staves would show if I cut the grooves straight across and the chances of cutting perfectly matched 45 deg cuts on 32 corners was non existant so I opted for a shorter groove and a notched front to the stave.

The length of the groove and the notch was hyper critical to make sure the other ends of the staves were pefectly aligned and that none of the groove showed when the stave was finally hammered home. The fit is very tight because the end grain join will show through the glass top of the table. In the picture showing the stave fitted you can just see the corner of the groove, this goes away with a sharp tap of a mallet on the end to line up the stave ends.

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I rounded the end staves full rad 1 1/2" with this large Bull nose cutter from MLCS. Each was cut in about 8 passes moving the fence a little at a time to expose the cutter. The most difficult part was getting the cut even on both sides. It may have been easier to use a 3/4 rad round over and come in from both sides.

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I also cut the through mortises in the centre end pieces for the stretchers.

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I will glue up the staves in sections and then sand to avoid changing the fit of everything.

36 hrs total shop time since first cut. My 40 hrs estimate is not going to cut it
 
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