Agree with what Mike said.
There are many ways to achieve a sharp chisel or carving tool edge, and hence, often the confusion for novices. Add to that that so much of what is written seems to say that their method is best. In the end, it's not so much how you get there, but how does it work that counts.
95% of what I do with a chisel or carving tool is periodic honing or stroping. When the tool starts to drag a little, I hone the edge which takes about 10 seconds. My edges will last for years, maintained by periodic stroping for a few seconds when needed, before I might go back to a water stone. And when I do, it is a 4000, then an 8000 (or just the 8000) then back to stroping only when needed for years. I use a power honer/stroper whereby just a touch of the front and back edge at the proper angle creates an extremely sharp bevel. The back of this edge requires just as much attention as the bevel since it is where they cone together that counts.
Be sure to flatten your water stone with another lower grit stone. Flattening stones are inexpensive and available specifically for that purpose. If there is a concave surface, that could be preventing you from getting the back (and bevel) to the mirror polish that is ideal. Again, what Mike said: you need to be sure that you have gone as far as you can with the lowest grit, achieving uniform scratch marks across the entire surface of the back before going to eh next higher grit. Also, be careful that when polishing the back at each grit, that you are laying the back perfectly flat on the stone. Any lifting of the edge is deadly and will require regrinding that newly created, unwanted back bevel to a perfectly flat surface again.
Typically when working a nicked or ragged edge (an old tool or one from a low quality source), or one with a bevel angle that you want to change (I prefer mine around 25 degrees) you will need to rough grind to the proper angle or to remove the nick. Then I go to a 400 diamond stone,. Work at this sotne the longest until you have uniform scratch marks on the front and back. Only the cutting edge is important, so don't worry about anythin but the front 1/4" or so on the back -----> then 800 diamond or water stone ----> 1200 ---> 4000 ----> 8000. Typically about 10 strokes front and back on these. I do this free hand to save time, using the concave two high points on the front (upside) of the chisel created from the grinding on a wheel to assure the proper angle. But any of the sharpening jigs can be used. I think if you do this freehand you will quickly develop a feel for it and can eliminate the need for a jig. You should only have to do all this once and only for a tool that is in bad shape. From here you should only need to strop the edge as needed (as described above).
This is the essence of sharpening and IMO books and magazines have made this way more complicated than necessary.
I look at "sharpening" as two distinct processes:
1. Preparing a badly damaged edge by grinding and a series of stones, (rarely needed) and....
2. Maintaining an edge almost indefinitely by Stroping to maintain a useful edge. (95+ % of what you will be doing to keep your tools sharp)
I am developing a stroping machine for sale. It is the result of 40 years of thinking about, reading about, and trying every method for sharpening. It can handle any chisel, plane blade, or any carving tool. I use MDF wheels impregnated with a homemade compound (lamb tallow and some other compounds). A few seconds on this is equal to 5-10 minutes of stroping on leather by hand. I made this out of necessity for my carving tools, but ended up using it for all of my edge tools. Will be available at the store on my website soon (MaineCoastWorkshop.com).
Let me know if I can clarify anything.
Hope this helps,
--Bill