Chessboard Question

[Chiefifd32]

Hi All....
Thought I'd check with some experts about Chessboard construction. I'm thinking about making a chessboard for my Grandson, with two-inch squares and a frame of some type.
I know how to make the basic board, my question is I'd like to make the board from 3/4 inch thick probably curly maple and a figured walnut.
I'd concerned about warping, would you suggest gluing down the board to a say 1/2 inch particle board or a baltic birch? Baltic birch is pretty expensive to just bury under the hardwood for a stable flat base.
I'm thinking about rabbiting a slot in the board and frame similar to a floating cabinet door insert instead of particle board or plywood for the stability of the board.
Any thoughts would be appreciated........

 

[Martin Roper]

A chess board is on my to-do list as well. My plan is a maple and zebrawood board surrounded by a maple frame mitered at the corners and held in place by dominos. The board will float inside the frame via a tongue & groove joint. No glue between the frame and board. Similar to this...

...except my board will show face grain instead of end grain and the squares will be only slightly proud of the frame, not what looks like 1/2" on his. Maybe an 1/8th" or so.

 

[Chiefifd32]

Yup, I've watched this video too. This is very similar to what I'm hoping to replicate, with face grain also.
I have the same thoughts, a thicker frame holding the chessboard. I just don't want the board to warp, I could make the chessboard board as thick as 7/8 inch or slightly less. Maybe that would help, all my rough lumber comes approximately 13/16 ths. I could definitely see 1/4 inch boards warping without support.

 

[Matt Furjanic]

Just made one for my grandson. Walnut and maple with black- line spalted maple inlaybanding. Www.inlaybanding.com.
Easy using veneer on a 3/4” plywood base which is much more stable than solid wood.

 

[John Jimenez]

Ed, have you considered making it foldable with storage for the pieces inside? I’ve made a couple for my kids both foldable. The frame hides the sides 3/8” Baltic ply and then glued 3/8” squares on.

 

[Rwe2156]

I'm not an expert, and I've never built a chessboard, but I a lot of downside to using solid wood with no substrate.

The only way I would do it is with veneer, as @Matt Furjanic (nice work, BTW). Veneer also opens up other options like exotic and figured wood, inlays, etc. And you're never going to know the difference, and you'll end up with a more stable board.

 

[jsloane]

Yup, I've watched this video too. This is very similar to what I'm hoping to replicate, with face grain also.
I have the same thoughts, a thicker frame holding the chessboard. I just don't want the board to warp, I could make the chessboard board as thick as 7/8 inch or slightly less. Maybe that would help, all my rough lumber comes approximately 13/16 ths. I could definitely see 1/4 inch boards warping without support.

You could use quarter sawn wood.
Although I made my board a 3D board, middle four squares are 2" tall, I have seen no warping in the 20 years since I built it.

 

[FredP]

I start with 3/8" thickness. I leave all outside pieces a bit long. After the board is glued up I use a drum sander to flatten one side. (The bottom) then I glue it to 3/4" substrate. (Oversized) then cut to size on the table saw. Then add borders. Finally I drum sand the top flat. The squares end up being about 1/8" thickness. This eliminates or at least limits movement.

 

[Melinapex]

The boards I have made have all been pretty thin - 1/4" or less, so I do glue them to 1/2" Baltic birch - similar to Fred..... thin stuff moves less.

 

[Chiefifd32]

Ed, have you considered making it foldable with storage for the pieces inside? I’ve made a couple for my kids both foldable. The frame hides the sides 3/8” Baltic ply and then glued 3/8” squares on.

I have considered building storage inside. I don't have a lathe but plan on making square playing pieces. I have several months for the build, so gathering a little information. Mainly I want to build it so it stays flat, and looks great.

 

[Chiefifd32]

The boards I have made have all been pretty thin - 1/4" or less, so I do glue them to 1/2" Baltic birch - similar to Fred..... thin stuff moves less.

I'm thinking about making the chessboard a little more robust, so maybe it would be a bit more stable. I'm contemplating using dowels on all sides of the board and sliding them into the frame. I haven't noticed anyone trying that, might not work just a thought.

 

[Chiefifd32]

You could use quarter sawn wood.
Although I made my board a 3D board, middle four squares are 2" tall, I have seen no warping in the 20 years since I built it.

I'm liking the thick approach, kinda my thought. 13/16 inch hardwood glued to a 1/2 inch baltic birch.

I'm not an expert, and I've never built a chessboard, but I a lot of downside to using solid wood with no substrate.

The only way I would do it is with veneer, as @Matt Furjanic (nice work, BTW). Veneer also opens up other options like exotic and figured wood, inlays, etc. And you're never going to know the difference, and you'll end up with a more stable board.

Never worked with veneer wood of any kind. I have a great source of hardwood locally, kind of want to use that.
I'm in the early stages of this whole thing.
I really appreciate all the responses here, I'll take them all into consideration.
Thank you one and All........

 

[Matt Furjanic]

I'm liking the thick approach, kinda my thought. 13/16 inch hardwood glued to a 1/2 inch baltic birch.

Never worked with veneer wood of any kind. I have a great source of hardwood locally, kind of want to use that.
I'm in the early stages of this whole thing.
I really appreciate all the responses here, I'll take them all into consideration.
Thank you one and All........

Don’t be afraid to try veneer. It is nothing but thin wood…

 

[golfdad]

I started with 1/2”. Finish sanded to 3/8 .