There are obvious differences in quality when talking about table saw or miter saw blades, so I assume the same holds true for chain saws ... but I don't know anything about them! What do I look for in a "good quality" chainsaw blade?:icon_scra
Chain saw blade quality
- Thread starter WoodWrangler
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Now here's a post I can get my teeth into. I've been using chainsaws for many years and pretty heavily for the last two. I only buy Oregon brand or the Husqvarna brand for my saw. There is one other that I'd recommend and that would be Grandberg. http://www.granberg.com/ Their stuff is a bit pricey but the saw sharpener guide that I use by them is top notch. Like most things in life, you ask 10 different people, you're likely to get 10 different answers. :eusa_thin
The opinions above are mine based on my experiences. One of the biggest qualities for happiness with a chainsaw is a properly sharpened and adjusted chain.:icon_thum Dull and/or loose chains will drive you nuts not to mention the additional wear on your bar and saw.:BangHead: Another thing I do is avoid the "chain and bar oil" in the stores. It's expensive for one and whether or not it is impregnated with some super duper goodies that minimize friction, etc. isn't that big enough of a deal to me to warrant the extra cost.:dontknow: I go to Dollar General or Family Dollar and get the El Cheapo 30wt. motor oil. Been using that since 1978 and haven't "seen" any real proof that the high $$$ stuff is any better. YMMV
You asked........you got my opinions. Next...........
The opinions above are mine based on my experiences. One of the biggest qualities for happiness with a chainsaw is a properly sharpened and adjusted chain.:icon_thum Dull and/or loose chains will drive you nuts not to mention the additional wear on your bar and saw.:BangHead: Another thing I do is avoid the "chain and bar oil" in the stores. It's expensive for one and whether or not it is impregnated with some super duper goodies that minimize friction, etc. isn't that big enough of a deal to me to warrant the extra cost.:dontknow: I go to Dollar General or Family Dollar and get the El Cheapo 30wt. motor oil. Been using that since 1978 and haven't "seen" any real proof that the high $$$ stuff is any better. YMMV
You asked........you got my opinions. Next...........
I agree with David. I only use Husqvarna chain, which may well be Oregon made. A loose chain is a real bad thing, just because it's adjusted correctly when cold doesn't mean it will be during use.
One thing some friends do that makes the hair on my neck stand is use used motor oil for chain lube! For Pete's sake you take it out of your vehicle engine cause it's lost lubrication ability, why risk a ~$25 chain and $30+ bar to save a couple of bucks??
One thing some friends do that makes the hair on my neck stand is use used motor oil for chain lube! For Pete's sake you take it out of your vehicle engine cause it's lost lubrication ability, why risk a ~$25 chain and $30+ bar to save a couple of bucks??
One thing to keep in mind is that while quality will translate to how long they can go between sharpenings, even the best ones will only take a few minutes of hard use. I use a little round file specificly designed for chain saw sharpening. If I did more sawing, I might spring for one of the rotary tool attachments. So how do you know when to sharpen? Chips = sharp, coarse chunky sawdust = getting dull, sawdust = dull, smoking wood = very dull. IMO, you save time by sharpening often because it will cut faster and you will tire slower. I learned my lessons about chainsaws in September of '96, making a FEMA pile after Fran.
Most people will tell you that Husqvarna and Stihl are the top brands out there. I only buy Stihl. There is a James River near me that does Stihl and John Deere and it is nice to have a knowledgeable dealer nearby to fix things and such. I have 3 Stihl products and love each one. These things rival woodworking equipment in coolness. Be careful though, Sawstop hasn't come to chainsaws yet 
.
Sharpening is not very hard - these are not precision instruments - but it is tedious. Honestly, I tend to bring my main chainsaw in for a service once every 18 months or so and tell them to give it a sharpening so I don't have to.
It just occurred to me you may be talking about just the blade itself, and not the saw. I've never replaced one. I guess I would probably just go back to the Stihl dealer and ask them for another one.
.Sharpening is not very hard - these are not precision instruments - but it is tedious. Honestly, I tend to bring my main chainsaw in for a service once every 18 months or so and tell them to give it a sharpening so I don't have to.
It just occurred to me you may be talking about just the blade itself, and not the saw. I've never replaced one. I guess I would probably just go back to the Stihl dealer and ask them for another one.
I'm a Stihl man, have a chainsaw and three brush cutters.
I only buy Stihl brand chains, bars and parts for my saw. If you are sawing a lot of stumps and roots you may want to get a carbide tooth chain.
I agree on the chainsaw file, be sure to get the right size for your chain. I use the guide too, it keeps the file at the correct height on the tooth. I sharpen every time I add gas and bar oil. Just a quick couple strokes on each tooth.
Every 5th or 6th time I use a micrometer to find the shortest tooth, lock the mic on that setting and then file every tooth to that length. Makes a big difference in cutting efficiency to have all the teeth the same length.
I only buy Stihl brand chains, bars and parts for my saw. If you are sawing a lot of stumps and roots you may want to get a carbide tooth chain.
I agree on the chainsaw file, be sure to get the right size for your chain. I use the guide too, it keeps the file at the correct height on the tooth. I sharpen every time I add gas and bar oil. Just a quick couple strokes on each tooth.
Every 5th or 6th time I use a micrometer to find the shortest tooth, lock the mic on that setting and then file every tooth to that length. Makes a big difference in cutting efficiency to have all the teeth the same length.
I get much more cutting time between sharpenings with a Stihl chain than with an Oregon, especially in oak or pecan. However, I buy both, and use the Oregon chains (and an older bar) for cutting roots, dirty wood, and anything that may have metal in it. The Oregons work well if kept sharp. After cutting a lot of pine, I will also clean all the sap off the chain and then soak it in oil.
If you have a McCullough, Troybilt or Stihl saw, (and some Craftsman models) you may want to consider a Stihl chain, but it will cost twice as much. Also, check the bar to make sure it is in good shape. A worn one will increase the wear/heat on your chain, and will let the chain lay over on its side, so it will not cut well if at all.
As for bar oil, you want it thick enough so that it does not sling off the end of the chain as it goes around the tip of the bar. If it does, you are getting no lubrication where you need it, which is on the bottom of the bar where its cutting wood.
If buying a new saw, think Stihl!!
Go
If you have a McCullough, Troybilt or Stihl saw, (and some Craftsman models) you may want to consider a Stihl chain, but it will cost twice as much. Also, check the bar to make sure it is in good shape. A worn one will increase the wear/heat on your chain, and will let the chain lay over on its side, so it will not cut well if at all.
As for bar oil, you want it thick enough so that it does not sling off the end of the chain as it goes around the tip of the bar. If it does, you are getting no lubrication where you need it, which is on the bottom of the bar where its cutting wood.
If buying a new saw, think Stihl!!
Go
Okay, up for a few more questions?
I bought a Poulan Pro chainsaw from the BORG with an 18" bar. I've yet to take it out of the box because I had my mind set on a Stihl 18" or Husqvarna 20" ... until the reality of the price set in (and the furnace issues I'm having lately). While it's obvious the Poulan isn't quite the saw the others are, is it decent or should I take it back and save my money for something better?
I don't plan on becoming a lumberjack by any means, but like to have good equipment that works well. I may cut down a tree here or there, but mainly I am getting the saw to cut up fell logs and prep turning blanks.
I bought a Poulan Pro chainsaw from the BORG with an 18" bar. I've yet to take it out of the box because I had my mind set on a Stihl 18" or Husqvarna 20" ... until the reality of the price set in (and the furnace issues I'm having lately). While it's obvious the Poulan isn't quite the saw the others are, is it decent or should I take it back and save my money for something better?
I don't plan on becoming a lumberjack by any means, but like to have good equipment that works well. I may cut down a tree here or there, but mainly I am getting the saw to cut up fell logs and prep turning blanks.
Be careful though, Sawstop hasn't come to chainsaws yet
Check this out ... http://safeguardventures.com/
i've had a poulan for about 8 yrs and it's fine for me.
if i were wanting to make a living with a saw i'd get something better, but to whack up stray limbs and such it is fine.
i assume you want to buck down blanks for the lathe and occasional fire wood.
you should be fine with the poulan imho
get you a little file if one didn't come in the borg box. clamp the bar in a vice to sharpen the blade it makes it a lot easier.
let me know i could give you some pointers one day if you want. as a child i was around a lot of chain saw action.
if i were wanting to make a living with a saw i'd get something better, but to whack up stray limbs and such it is fine.
i assume you want to buck down blanks for the lathe and occasional fire wood.
you should be fine with the poulan imho
get you a little file if one didn't come in the borg box. clamp the bar in a vice to sharpen the blade it makes it a lot easier.
let me know i could give you some pointers one day if you want. as a child i was around a lot of chain saw action.
Personally, I would save for the Stihl or Husky saw, quality is quality. Both are great saws but there are differences in size comparisons. I was told by the Stihl dealer that the Husky 346xp will out cut the Sthil of the same size and cc. Do some research. Small saws ( 35 to 45CC) range in either brand should make you happy. The smaller Stihl brands are really nice.
I have two small Stihls, one small Echo and one big Echo. I am saving for the Husky 346xp,a pro model. I use the saws for carving and have a carving bar on the small Echo.
Sharpening is everything. Keep them sharp, the teeth the same length and the rakers filed to the right height. Bailey's sells everything you need and has a good service for any questions. You should be able to Google them.
Oregon chains are mass produced in China and the Sthil are Scandinavian made or were a couple years ago. Unless you cut alot either one will do although the Sthil is a better chain. If you want to experiment, use a low profile 3/8 chain. Cuts a smaller kerf and cuts fast, especially when cutting with the grain.
Good luck.
Stave
I have two small Stihls, one small Echo and one big Echo. I am saving for the Husky 346xp,a pro model. I use the saws for carving and have a carving bar on the small Echo.
Sharpening is everything. Keep them sharp, the teeth the same length and the rakers filed to the right height. Bailey's sells everything you need and has a good service for any questions. You should be able to Google them.
Oregon chains are mass produced in China and the Sthil are Scandinavian made or were a couple years ago. Unless you cut alot either one will do although the Sthil is a better chain. If you want to experiment, use a low profile 3/8 chain. Cuts a smaller kerf and cuts fast, especially when cutting with the grain.
Good luck.
Stave
LOL nice, I should have known someone would come up with something like that. Looks interesting. I am into being safe, and I will tell you that I actually try to remember to wear chainsaw chaps when I'm cutting, and always wear a hardhat (and glasses) when I'm bringing a tree down. You have to respect those tools.
Regarding the saw choice - prices for an 18 or 20" Stihl are high, but are you really planning to cut down trees that require a blade that big? Most backyard stuff can be done with smaller blades, and you won't tire so fast. All I can say is Lumberjacks must be some of the fittest men out there.
Regarding the saw choice - prices for an 18 or 20" Stihl are high, but are you really planning to cut down trees that require a blade that big? Most backyard stuff can be done with smaller blades, and you won't tire so fast. All I can say is Lumberjacks must be some of the fittest men out there.
My opinion? Take the Pewlan back to the BORG and go get a real saw. I've personally witnessed 2 of them die in the woods never to crank again. Oh, they were both brand new. Before I moved up here to NC, I never bought anything but a McCullough and never had one fail on me. Couldn't find one around these parts so I opted for the Husky and have never regretted it.
I like Husqvarna & Stihl saws too. Unfortunately, the thieves around here don't know how to spell & when they see, "Stihl" they think it's saying, "steal". :cry_smile Of course, that is the way it's pronounced.......
Insofar as having a saw for light shop & home use, why not consider an electric?
Insofar as having a saw for light shop & home use, why not consider an electric?
Go with Stihl. I have been using them religously for about 15 years and never had one miss a beat. If you do buy a husky, buy it from a dealer, not the "crap in a box" store. HD, Lowe's or wherever have low grade saws that are no better than a homelite (those saws in those stores are manufactured by homelite). I recommend finding a nice 090 Stihl (joke). No seriously as far a chain goes, oregon isn't bad, but dulls alot quicker that my Stihl Chain. Oregon make nice bars though, I go through about 1 bar every year or two and stick with Stihl, but had some Oregon Bars when in WA. I couldn't tell the difference between wear or oiling in the bars. As far as chain type goes, that will be a much harder question. You need to know what your chain sizes are. I run a 3/8" in my 390 and 192. I also use RFS (Rapid Full Skip) but the more saw you have with this chain the more chance of kickback. If you just cutting small stuff on a small saw with low/lower power I recommend using picco. I think it makes a smoother cut and if you get the ones with anti-back features that's even better as far a safety goes. Here is a good link for what chain is good with what saws: http://www.stihllibrary.com/pdfs/SawChainSelection.pdf. I disagree with the use of motor oil. In cold weather it may work ok, but to keep you bar and chain in the best of shape, use good QUALITY bar oil or you'll have more problems out of your saw.
That's what I had and the motor burnt up. It was a good saw, but couldn't handle much of a cut. The motor fried mid-cut last week. I'm in for gas now. I wish they made a 4-cycle ... I really hate gas/oil mix for many reasons.
I'm not sure where to buy Stihl saws around here ... but I know Lowes sells the Husky ones. Any opinions of the Husky 455 "Rancher" http://www.amazon.com/drillpress/B0...asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B00080MIJI)?
Just read Zach's post about the BORG saws not being the same as those at a dealer. Is this true for the "Rancher" one that I pointed out?
Any recommended dealers that you guys have used in the east Charlotte area?
Any recommended dealers that you guys have used in the east Charlotte area?
My Uncle was in the woods with a chainsaw earning a living all his life. He used to say "If yer gone' buy a big saw, git a Husky. If'n ye wanna small'n, git a Sthil.
That said, the best cutting saw I ever had my hands on was a McCullogh that a gocart racer had hopped up. What a BEAST!! That sucker would flat out eat! Dang exhaust pipe about 18" long would suck in the woods though. :rotflm:
That said, the best cutting saw I ever had my hands on was a McCullogh that a gocart racer had hopped up. What a BEAST!! That sucker would flat out eat! Dang exhaust pipe about 18" long would suck in the woods though. :rotflm:
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