Cathy - ? about your basket/bowls

[CarvedTones]

Oen of my boys was really taken by those and wants to try making some. :eusa_danc (yes, I like to get them involved). I dug through my stacks and found a pattern from Weekend Woodcrafts Jan 99 issue. But I just pulled out the pattern sheets and have lost the mag along the way.

Anyway, the pattern is 9 layers and a a little over 6" diameter at the widest. Their plan also has a round (unscallopped) bottom and top lip. I think I will just used the scalloped pieces. I think that is what you do since you were saying it was all from one piece. Is that correct?

I have some walnut milled (thanks Matt, for resaw and planing help! :eusa_clap :eusa_clap ) to around 1/4", maybe a little more that I plan to use for stock. Will that thickness work well? I think the shape would be okay; somewhere in the 2" - 3" height range.

Thanks!

 

[PChristy]

Andy, I am sure Cathy will chime in here on this in a few. With my experience with scrolling and with your son being new at it - the 1/4 inch by itself will be hard for him to keep it on the line - the thinner the stock the more the blade wonders - when we cut this thickness or thinner we stack cut them - If you have a contrasting color @ 1/4 inch I think it would be cool if you would stack cut them then he would cut two out at the same time then have the contrasting layers for his baskets/bowls JMTCW:icon_scra

 

[CarvedTones]

the thinner the stock the more the blade wonders - when we cut this thickness or thinner we stack cut them - If you have a contrasting color @ 1/4 inch I think it would be cool if you would stack cut them then he would cut two out at the same time then have the contrasting layers for his baskets/bowls JMTCW:icon_scra

So what do you think the blade is curious about? :rotflm:

I know you meant wander (and all blades that wander are not lost ) and I may have him stack cut or I might just have him start a a slower speed. Besides, you are assuming I will give him actual new sharp blades to work with. :rolf: Which I will; I hope he takes to it.

Your idea about contrast is a good one. I have a couple of pieces of cherry sapwood that would likely work, but I will wait until he does a couple of walnut ones first. Besides, I don't want to wear out my welcome over at Matt's (Splint Eastwood) and the cherry would also need resaw and surfacing...

 

[cskipper]

Good morning. You are correct about the top an bottom pieces if different from the rest of the rings - I ignore them. My bottom is my inner-most ring.

Cutting contrasting woods is a great idea, especially when cutting 1/4" stock. An additional suggestion - have the grain of the two pieces running in opposite directions. It will help the blade not follow the grain, and since the basket is round the wood orientation doesn't really matter.

I'd suggest a #5 blade. If the walls are thick enough to sand out the entry hole lines from the layers go to a #7. The size of the kerf is fairly irrelevant so the larger the blade the better. This also helps with keeping it out of the grain path. I use blades from PS Wood Machines for straight cutting (except sizes over 1/4" plywood). Some will say to use skip tooth or double type blades, but you aren't going to have a tremendous amount of dust to worry about clearing. For plywood (all plywood projects except puzzles) I use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse. Both brands cut straighter than any others I have found.

I'd put painter's tape (quick release/delicate whatever they are currently calling it) on the wood, both the hold the stacks together and on bottom and top. Attach the pattern to the top of the painters tape. This will make it easy to remove the pattern with no residue. I use tape on both sides because there is a lot of belief that the glue lubricates the blade, and since this type of tape doesn't have a lot of glue I use on top and bottom.

If the pattern wants to lift while cutting, use scotch tape to pin it back down.

Most of all, have fun! The pattern is a guide not a mandate.

 

[PChristy]

- the thinner the stock the more the blade wonders - when we cut this thickness or thinner we stack cut them - :icon_scra

Andy, grammer at I never good wuz:rotflm: