Another newbie question

[mbolt512]

The surface of my tablesaw is beginning to look a little rough. What's the best way to restore that new table look? Would a light sanding be ok? Also, what should I put on it to protect it?:icon_scra

(If this question doesn't prove my newbie status just wait. I'm sure I'll have more.):embaresse

 

[Douglas Robinson]

What do you mean by "rough"? If it is normal discoloration and/or a little rust get some Boeshield rust remover and some T9 Rust Protectant. I use the firwst with a Scotchbrite pad. Afterwards I like to apply Mother's Polish, which you can get at an auto parts store. GeorgeL uses a car polisher (I think) and you can practically shve in the reflection from his table tops!

Doug

 

[mbolt512]

I was thinking it was normal discoloration but it doesn't feel as smooth as it was, so I'm assuming it is beginning to rust. Where can I get "Boeshield rust remover"? I already have a Scotchbrite, some Mother's polish and a car polisher.

Thanks for the info,

 

[Trent Mason]

I've always used mineral spirits to clean mine, then used something in an aresol can that I bought from Tools Plus. I can't remember what it's called but it is about $20 a can and protects against rust, etc. HTH

Trent

 

[Douglas Robinson]

Klingspor and Woodcraft both carry it.

I was thinking it was normal discoloration but it doesn't feel as smooth as it was, so I'm assuming it is beginning to rust. Where can I get "Boeshield rust remover"? I already have a Scotchbrite, some Mother's polish and a car polisher.

Thanks for the info,

 

[SteveCogs]

I believe T9 is on sale at Woodcraft right now. Sears may still beat the price and if I'm not mistaken there was a post here about sears having it on sale also.

 

[McRabbet]

I would be careful using any automotive polishes that may contain silicone in their waxes -- these may transfer onto your wood and will mess up any finishes you want to add later. I've used WD-40 and a Scotchbrite pad to clean my Cast Iron tablesaw top and then wipe it out fully with a clean terry cloth rag. The WD-40 stays in the pores of the CI for a long time and I've never had any problems with this treatment. If you insist on a high polish finish, then use some Gulf brand canning paraffin wax available in your super market's canning aisle.

 

[flatheadfisher]

As a newbie, I expect to learn some things the hard way. Recently, I made the mistake of using some Mother's Mag Wheel Polish on my hand planes. I followed the polish with the Mother's Carnauba Wax. I thought it only contained light abrasives. But, when I went to use them the next day, they had seriously rusted. I guess there was something in the wheel polish that resulted in the oxidation. I spent a couple of hours rubbing the rust out and it was back the next day. I spent another five hours rubbing them out then cleaning them to remove any trace of whatever it was. I oiled them and let them sit overnight then cleaned them again and put on another coat of carnauba. They haven't rusted anymore. That was a hard-learned lesson. I ordered some camellia oil to put on them in the future. I also ordered some Slip-it to put on my machines. I haven't used it yet but I intend to this weekend.

 

[crokett]

I use mineral spirits with a scotch brite pad to derust. The spirits will evaporate and not harm the metal. Then I use Johnson's paste wax to protect the surfaces. Easily renewable, easy to find and it does not contain silicone.

 

[Mike Davis]

I use a good flat piece of wood wrapped with 600 grit wet & dry paper and mineral spirits. Then wax with johnsons paste floor wax.

 

[Tarhead]

I spoke with one of the Chemists at Mother's a few years ago when researching this and he said absolutely zero silicone in any form is used in their Mag and Aluminum polish and their other metal polishes. He also said that he would not use their higher priced products on cast iron as there is little difference in the formulas that I would appreciate for the doubling/tripling cost.
When I rehabed my neglected/abused TS table I used a small random orbit sander fitted w/wet-dry paper and lubed with WD-40, followed by a green 3M pad/WD-40 and then the Mother's Mag/Al polish applied with old terrycloth towells and a big can of elbow grease. I've been a happy camper with a monthly spray and buff of grated Gulfwax disolved in mineral spirits (~1/2 block/10 ounces MS) on all of my cast iron tops. Figure I've got ~$4 invested in 20 years worth of supply.

 

[wdkits1]

So I've been reading what everyone uses to clean and wax their table tops and have seen some interesting suggestions.
I use 600 grit wet /dry paper or 4/0 steelwool to clean up but have found that good old PAM cooking spray is the cheapest and easiest way to prevent any rust plus is makes all surfaces as slick as glass. I use it for everything that needs lube including band saw blades, router table, jointer bed ,plainer bed--like I said everything. Just spray on and wipe off and your good to go.

Mike

 

[mbolt512]

good old PAM cooking spray is the cheapest and easiest way to prevent any rust plus is makes all surfaces as slick as glass. I use it for everything that needs lube including band saw blades, router table, jointer bed ,plainer bed--like I said everything. Just spray on and wipe off and your good to go.

Mike

This seems like a good inexpensive way to maintain a good surface, but I would have thought this would leave some type of residue, possibly transferring to my projects. Have you had any had any problems with this?

 

[wdkits1]

As long as the surface is wiped clean it leaves no residue and no smell.I've been using it for years and haven't had any problems . When I use it on my bandsaw it lubes the blade nicely and any residue left over is taken care of when I run the stock thru the planer.

Mike

 

[Travis Porter]

I use WD-40 and mothers mag wheel stuff on my cast iron followed up with either boeshield or paste wax. Johnsons paste wax is in the grocery store and contains no silicone.

As for the Pam, that is an interesting tidbit I had never considered, and it does make a lot of sense. We use Pam to keep stuff from sticking and to lubricate in high temperatures so it kind of makes sense that it would work on other stuff. I wonder how it would do on a saw blade?