Aftermarket riving knife (BORK) vs. fixed shark guard splitter?

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kooshball

David
Corporate Member
After experiencing my first table saw accident (while ripping, an off-cut came off the blade funny, got into the back of the blade, slid up on the blade then got a final max-velocity push from the front of the blade into my stomach) I am planning to do some safety upgrades. I am fine BTW, just a bruise.

I have a Grizzly G1023Z, rt. tilt saw and a quick search returned two popular safety upgrades:
1. an aftermarket riving knife (BORK)
2. The Shark Guard system (fixed splitter, anti-kickback paws, guard and DC)

I am now trying to figure out which will be best suited to my needs. The first and primary question that I have is, will a riving knife prevent the off cuts from getting thrown back or do I NEED those spring mounted paws to grab them? I like the idea of the paws but I don't like the idea of their added bulk potentially interfering with push sticks, Grrippers, and cross-cutting.

Any thoughts on pros and cons of each of these systems???

Thanks
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
I'm using the Shark Shorty Splitter w/5/16" 18 ratcheting handle on my old Unisaw and like it a lot. Quick on and off and it doesn't get in the way. Lee sells anti-kickback pawls to attach to the Shark splitter and the whole sheebang can be removed or attached to your saw in about 5 seconds with the ratcheting handle on a Uni or Griz saw. If you're using a Grripper correctly on smaller stock you really don't need a splitter or like me use the Shorty splitter which adds an extra layer of safety. The only time I have had a kickback was during a mitered rip cut without it attached and had the garage door open which distracted me.

The BORK would be an advantage over the Shark being able to be used during tilted blade operations, raises and lowers with and keeps the same position relative to the blade. I have no experience with one but like the idea. I wish the manufacturer would come out with a better attachment method than hose clamps.
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
I was raised with anti-kickback pawls and wouldn't feel safe without them. That's a big reason I haven't jumped on the riving knife wagon.
Grrippers by design don't allow use with spltters, but will allow true riving knives.
And incidently, I think push sticks are unsafe devices around tablesaws. I use shoes (like Grrippers).

Just my opinion...
 

JohnW

New User
John
T/S Safety Opinion from someone with bruises and scars caused by kickback.

Gripper may seem expensive but is the best "product" safety purchase I ever made. (Operation & Safety knowledge is by far the #1 safety insurance you can have)

I'm currently using the Micro Jig splitter installed in several zero clearance plates. They have some nice adjustable features that help you tweak in a perfect fit. All of my early accidents would have been avoided with this simple safety device...but this type of splitter has trade offs. It can only be used with 0 degree blade tilt. I also like the riving knife as a safety device, especially because it will work at any tilt from 0-45 degrees.

Since the majority of my rips are thin, the combination of Micro-Jig splitter (short height) and Gripper are a good combination. If your cuts tend to be wider and/or use blade tilt, like furniture making, a riving knife might be a better choice.

I'm personally don't use pawls, but they do act as a last line of defense if something does go horribly wrong.

Most cabinet T/S's with 3HP motor spin at 3600 RPM. A 10" blade grabbing a board and throwing it back at you travels over 100 MPH. Probably closer to 120 MPH depending on slippage, wind & elevation :wsmile:. NOBODY is fast enough to duck that and if you ever get hit with a hunk of wood traveling twice the legal speed limit on our interstates, you'll know why added safety features and proper operating procedures are important. (after you wake up):wink_smil
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Any thoughts on pros and cons of each of these systems???
#1 consideration is: What is your trade-off between safety and convenience? The best system in the world won't do you any good if it's so impractical you're never going to use it.

The main reason I didn't like the splitter/ guard that came with my saw is because it takes several minutes to get out the wrenches to remove it/ put it back. Not to mention fiddling with the splitter to get the thing to actually line up with the blade. When the 10 seconds you need for a quick cut turns into 10 minutes, it's just too tempting to not use it. I use the MicoJig splitter and Grr-rippers, which is a "zero excuse" setup. I can install/ remove the splitter in 5 seconds. Hard to beat that. I'd love to have a blade cover, but without something to attach it to, it will need to be an overarm guard, which isn't cheap.

A riving knife can be used for non-through cuts, and can typically be removed/ installed in seconds (there are some exceptions). Unlike a splitter, it also rotates with the blade. So that definitely falls in the "zero excuse" category. I don't have a Shark Guard, but I've looked at the design extensively, and it changeover appears to be pretty quick. The "zipcode" saw Joe uses also has a much better splitter/ guard design than most.

How important are kickback pawls? I don't like them, but that's because of the poor design of the ones on my saw. Like you, I'd rather avoid a kickback than having the pawls contain it. But any safety device that helps is a plus.
 

zapdafish

New User
Steve
I've got the shark if you want to check it out. I rarely use it anymore tho since I stared using the gripper for rip cuts and a crosscut sled for everything else. I tend to cut everything close to size with a track saw before running it through my tablesaw but every now and again something about a cut gets me to pull it out and install everything.
 

kooshball

David
Corporate Member
Thanks for all the responses.

After much consideration I have decided to go with the BORK instead of the Shark for a two reasons:
1. the BORK can stay in place for most operations and be used with my Grripper so it will simply be in the saw more often and as a result be safer
2. the BORK seems easier to install and won't tempt me with tangental projects like "how to hook up a portable over the table DC system" to feed into the Shark

I am convinced that my injury could have been prevented with either system but I keep leaning toward the one that will remain in the saw more often which in this case seems to be the BORK.

I will post pics and a quick review once things are installed...
 

zapdafish

New User
Steve
that bork looks pretty nice, I might be replacing my shark. At the time I couldn't find anything like it.
 

kooshball

David
Corporate Member
It is still in the box. I am still "finishing the finish" on my dresser, then I will have some time for shop upgrades.
 

kooshball

David
Corporate Member
Give the BORK folks a call, they called me after I placed my order to verify which saw I had and offer install tips, so I am sure they could get you squared away.
 

golfdad

Co-director of Outreach
Dirk
Corporate Member
david your lucky it wasjust a bruise...same thing happened to me a couple months ago and after surgery to fix a severed intestine I got to converse with hospital staff for 8 days.....still working on saftey upgrades...bought a Biesemeyer splitter and the gripper....still trying to install the splitter..glad to hear you escaped injury
 

nickster

New User
Nick
Give the BORK folks a call, they called me after I placed my order to verify which saw I had and offer install tips, so I am sure they could get you squared away.


Yeah I emailed them and they weren't sure at first... but after a couple emails they said it would work and told me about a 20% coupon they have... Going to order today...
 
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