aaarrrgh....@#%$* %%*&^

[Larry Rose]

:BangHead: As some of you may know from my last posting, I had just finished a pedestal table with a veneered top insert. I was waiting for some more drying to put on a coat of wax. Yesterday I went into the shop and noticed a small bubble in the veneer. As I looked closer more showed up. I tried the hot iron trick. Not only did it not fix the bubbles, but it ruined the finish (lesson learned). I don't know what happened but I've bought new glue and tossed the old. I was able to remove the veneered section and have started on a new one. Sorry no pics I was too mad to think about it. Oh well if it was easy we would all be a David Marks.......

 

[nelsone]

Sorry to hear about the problems! I was putting together a bookcase the other day and while assembling it, broke one of the end panels! It is definitely frustrating when you are sooooo close to finished to have a set back like that!

 

[Trent Mason]

Larry,

I'm sorry to hear about that. :no: I am starting on a nightstand tomorrow and was going to make my own veneer for the top. I can't wait to hear more input about this and I will definitely take it all into consideration. Did it happen to all of the veneer? Do you think it was the finish/glue? Once again, very sorry to hear that, that was a GREAT looking table, but I'm sure you'll get it back.

Trent

 

[Ray Martin]

Larry,

Sorry to hear that the project is giving you a hard time. What kind of glue were you using? Just wondering... maybe there's a warning in this for all of us. Was the glue old?

Ray

 

[Larry Rose]

I'm blaming it on the glue. I used a coldpress glue that is for veneering. I think came from Rockler. I don't know if it was old or something I did wrong. In any case I'm going back to Titebond II that I've used in the past with no problems.

 

[sapwood]

That is a huge Ouch!
Hope round two goes better :eusa_pray

But I like the thread title. Could you put aaarrrgh....@#%$* %%*&^ in the lexicon?

Roger

 

[skeeter]

Roger, maybe we'd better not translate!!! Could be "tmi".

 

[Larry Rose]

Roger, maybe we'd better not translate!!! Could be "tmi".

You really don't want to know what I said yesterday:realmad:

 

[LeftyTom]

Take a deep breath before you make a second go at it. I never seem to be able to fix anything if I am thinking about it went wrong the first time. :BangHead:

 

[jmauldin]

Rockler and others selling the cold press glue are all having problems with this glue. It does exactly what it did with you. Although hot hide glue is the best way to go, working with hide glue is a bit of a bother unless you use it a lot and often. You can use regular yellow glue and do just fine. (One thought - you can coat both pieces to be glued, lay them aside to dry, then after they are cured place the two pieces together and activate the glue with a warm iron - just don't use your wife's favorite iron.) This method is used in a lot of shops and has the advantage of being able to position the pieces without them sticking together like contact cement.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[SkintKnuckle]

Larry, I'm assuming the glue you were using is one of the spray dry u/f resin adhesives. If you would like an evaluation of the glue, I do have a friend who can do that in a wood lab, I no longer work there, but I'm sure he'll do it. The evaluation is pretty easy, just some block shears using hard maple, but will take about a week before the results are in.

You did, have the glue up at room temperature, say 70 degrees+ while the resin cured, I hope?

To give you an idea of the stability of dry UF resins, adhesives of that time typically have a shelf life of 1 year...but that would be from manufacture, liquid UF resins are probalby no more than a month. The plant I worked at for 15 years made commercial formulations of that type. I've seen lots go bad in less than a year, and others go as long as 2 years. Product rotation and shelf life are extremely critical!

You can maybe do a home quick home evaluation on the glue. If the mix is very grainy when you reconstitute it, or if it takes much more water for a mix to achieve proper viscosity, it's definately bad. The problem there is that if you're not very familiar which what it SHOULD look like, you're apt to not pick this up. I also want to point out that those mixes should generally run a much lower viscosity than you'll see with your PVA woodworking glues, about the viscosity of realy maple syrup, it'll appear runny compared to PVA.

Larry, if I were you, I'd save that sample, call up Rockler, and tell them that they owe you for the wood that their adhesive ruined.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

 

[Larry Rose]

Larry, I'm assuming the glue you were using is one of the spray dry u/f resin adhesives. If you would like an evaluation of the glue, I do have a friend who can do that in a wood lab, I no longer work there, but I'm sure he'll do it. The evaluation is pretty easy, just some block shears using hard maple, but will take about a week before the results are in.

You did, have the glue up at room temperature, say 70 degrees+ while the resin cured, I hope?

To give you an idea of the stability of dry UF resins, adhesives of that time typically have a shelf life of 1 year...but that would be from manufacture, liquid UF resins are probalby no more than a month. The plant I worked at for 15 years made commercial formulations of that type. I've seen lots go bad in less than a year, and others go as long as 2 years. Product rotation and shelf life are extremely critical!

You can maybe do a home quick home evaluation on the glue. If the mix is very grainy when you reconstitute it, or if it takes much more water for a mix to achieve proper viscosity, it's definately bad. The problem there is that if you're not very familiar which what it SHOULD look like, you're apt to not pick this up. I also want to point out that those mixes should generally run a much lower viscosity than you'll see with your PVA woodworking glues, about the viscosity of realy maple syrup, it'll appear runny compared to PVA.

Larry, if I were you, I'd save that sample, call up Rockler, and tell them that they owe you for the wood that their adhesive ruined.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

No, it was the liquid glue

 

[SkintKnuckle]

I'm curious now, Larry, I just checked the Rockler site, and only saw PVA, Resorcinol and some contact cement. Could you say which one it was?

I just assumed that Rockler sold the dry UF, but didn't see it there....I really don't buy much glue.

 

[Larry Rose]

I'm curious now, Larry, I just checked the Rockler site, and only saw PVA, Resorcinol and some contact cement. Could you say which one it was?

I just assumed that Rockler sold the dry UF, but didn't see it there....I really don't buy much glue.

It was the Tightbond in a quart bottle which I see is no longer in the catalogue.