Thanks for the thoughts folks - unfortunately I am alsmost done with the waterlox application. I tried the tape but fekt that I would have had too many areas where the tape would have left an exposed (unfinished) area outside of the shoulder of the tenon. In hindsight - it would have been a lot easier to touch up those areas than the method I am using - live and learn
Rick
It's good to learn and experiment along the way too. I'd like to see some pictures of your work in progress with the "mortise" fillers (temporary fake tenons) before and after finishing of the individual pieces. Just curious about that method. You'll probably have pretty good glue joints either way but you chose "the road less traveled".
Gelling is caused by oxygen. You have to use Bloxygen (argon gas) which blankets the unused product in the original container. Only pour out what you need for a finish and don't pour any leftovers back into the original container. I know this from $$ lost experience before I learned about Bloxygen. I usually buy 3 or 4 cans so there are spares on the shelf for next time.
http://www.bloxygen.com
I use the Original Sealer/Finish which is about 50% sheen and the satin is about 25% sheen. The Original can be knocked back with steel wool or ScotchBrite pads if you wish so it approximates the satin. You don't need to thin it and probably shouldn't either.
https://www.waterlox.com/products-item/waterlox-original-penetrating-tung-oil-floor-sealer-finish