9ft Tall Built-in Bookcase

[Matt307]

Hi All - Looking for some guidance for an upcoming project. I'm going to build built-in bookcases and have a 9 ft tall ceiling. Project will be painted and 16 inches deep (lower half is going to be cabinets). Was planning to use plywood for carcass but at 8 ft long this is where the conundrums started (I realize I could use 4/4 wood, but I don't want to deal with the glue ups to get to my depth).

1) if I build the cabinets and upper shelves as separate pieces, what's the safest way to join the two? Everything will be same depth.

2) is there a way to extend the ply to 9 ft? Via 1 ft extension box or something? If so, same question. Best joinery?

3) Do I not trouble myself and just add a 3-4 inch platform for it to sit on and then moulding at top to hide the rest of the gap?

Thanks for strong me in the right direction!

Matt

 

[Skymaster]

PM me I can help you

 

[Charles Lent]

Welcome aboard.

I think Skymaster will be a big help for you.

Fitting a 9' tall 16" deep piece into a 9' high room will be impossible if not built in two stackable sections. The diagonal dimension will be more than 9', so you will not be able to tip it up into place. Also, the floor to ceiling dimension is rarely and accurate measurement and the came over the full area of the project. You build a little shorter, and put trim around the gap at the top. Bookcase over closets is common with a step back for the bookcase. You don't need 16" depth for books. You should plan on a spacer/toe kick at the bottom or added doors (now or later) will not open easily over carpet. This is just a few of the many things to learn and keep in mind when you build something like this. Work closely with him and your next project will be much easier.

Charley

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Make the lower cabinets and the upper shelves in two pieces. This is how a lot of 17th through early 20th century furniture was made. The primary benefit was it could be knocked down for transportation--think shipped by boat from Europe and then covered wagons. Use dowels sticking up from the cabinet top to anchor the shelves. If you feel it necessary a few discreet screws at the top of the shelves will hold them permanently.

 

[Matt307]

Thanks all for the help! I've been reading around on here for a bit but glad to finally have an opportunity to pick everyone's brains.

Skymaster, will shoot you a note in a bit!

Thanks!
Matt

 

[mdbuntyn]

@Matt307 You can't send messages because you haven't met the minimum posting requirement. Introduce yourself in the "Who We Are" section, and comment on additional threads. If you do that today, you should achieve "User" status and be able to start Conversations sometime tomorrow. Remember to visit at least once every 30 days to maintain "User" status

@Skymaster You'll either have to PM him yourself, or wait a day or so for him to reach "User" status

 

[Skymaster]

Aye Aye roger wilco

 

[Charlie Buchanan]

Good advice above. Make your base cabinets with a provision for leveling them. Don’t count on floor being level. Set and level your base cabinet. Then you have a level surface to set your shelf unit on. Attach shelf unit to wall scribing as needed to match the wall while keeping the front plumb. Leave room at top for molding to cover the gap between shelf unit and ceiling.
If you can set and level base cabinet before building shelf unit it will be much simpler.

 

[JimD]

I would make it two pieces too. Much easier. I built a cabinet for my bath that goes to the 8 foot ceiling, kind of. I have crown molding so the top of the cabinet goes up just high enough to fasten crown to. Leaving it about 2 inches short of the ceiling made it a lot easier to get in place. It is one piece - but less than 8 feet tall.

I plan to put in an upper in my son's house next weekend and it will go to the ceiling too - but not the floor. They need more storage so I built a cabinet a little over 5 feet wide, 2 foot deep, and 4 feet tall. It goes over their washer and dryer. I left the face frame in pieces so I can fit it to the walls and then glue it up as I attach it to the cabinet which will be on the wall at that point. Again the crown molding will wrap the top. I should have a minimum of 1/4 clearance between the cabinet and the walls before the face frame is attached. I measured the tightest space at the top - drywall finishing. The face frame will hide the gap at the wall. I'm hoping to reuse the molding off the back wall which won't be seen any more to wrap the cabinet but I told my son we may have to get more - depends on how it is installed and how carefully we remove it. I think it is multiple pieces but won't know for sure until I get it out.

 

[Berta]

Two pieces is the correct way. Trim out the top with molding. SkyMaster is a pro at this stuff.

 

[Skymaster]

no more than i inch from ceiling

 

[Skymaster]

Two pieces is the correct way. Trim out the top with molding. SkyMaster is a pro at this stuff.

Thank you

 

[craftbeerguy]

I'm currently in the process of building a commissioned bookcase 11' wide by 8' tall. It's built in (4) 8' sections. As a few stated, build the bottom cabs as long (length) as you can and then build the top cases separate. I'd use plywood for the cases and shelves. Check the "Sagulator" calculator online to see how much reinforcement you may need to keep shelves from sagging. Prefinish before assembly. You'll be happy you did. Seeing as it's painted, you can attach the face frames on site with a nailer. My project is natural Maple so I'm stressing about attaching the face frames as I write. I've repeated most info from above but I'm happy to vent as my wife and puppy are no longer listening.

 

[markdavd]

If the piece is to be considered 'built in' then may I suggest using a few screws into the studs to hold the top firmly in place.

 

[Woodman2k]

Definitely good advice above but I have to ask, What exactly is going to be stored 9' off the floor and who is going to climb up the wall to retrieve it. I don't have pictures cause it's not completed but I'm doing a similar setup with a higher ceiling but 8' was as high as I really felt was necessary. You can always display items on the top of those shelving units and hide recessed ambient lighting.

 

[Matt307]

Thanks All! If I go the two pieces (Cabinets bottom, then shelves top), what's best way to attach the two? Or do I even need to and I just sink screws into the studs on some stretchers at the top?

I like where this is heading though, couple inches of toe kick at the bottom/platform for levelling, couple inches of space at top for molding, unlevel ceiling, lighting, etc. and then scribe the face frame.. That's all helpful! Two pieces gets me out of the 8' dilemma also.

 

[Matt307]

Definitely good advice above but I have to ask, What exactly is going to be stored 9' off the floor and who is going to climb up the wall to retrieve it. I don't have pictures cause it's not completed but I'm doing a similar setup with a higher ceiling but 8' was as high as I really felt was necessary. You can always display items on the top of those shelving units and hide recessed ambient lighting.

Last shelf would probably be somewhere around 7.5' mark off the floor, the rest of distance to ceiling was to just "complete the look" type thing.

I thought about ending the shelf at 8' off ground, and put stuff on top, but it wouldn't give the "built-in" look we were going for, but some kind of header/molding, etc. I think would help that.

 

[Matt307]

All - Thanks again for the help and guidance! Wanted to post a pic of the (99.9%) finished product. Total build took about 3-4 months but that's how life goes with 3 little kids. Super happy with the end result!

Built 4 cabinet boxes with adjustable shelving inside and then the 4 bookcases with dadoed shelving resting on top.

Just need to put the finished quarter round on the baseboard...

 

[Unknownroad]

That looks sharp! Built-ins are on my own to-do list, and I just assumed I'd go with pinned shelves for flexibility but I'm reconsidering after seeing how clean your fixed shelves look.

 

[HITCH-]

@Matt307 You can't send messages because you haven't met the minimum posting requirement. Introduce yourself in the "Who We Are" section, and comment on additional threads. If you do that today, you should achieve "User" status and be able to start Conversations sometime tomorrow. Remember to visit at least once every 30 days to maintain "User" status

@Skymaster You'll either have to PM him yourself, or wait a day or so for him to reach "User" status

Matt, I had to wait 30 days before I could send /receive PMs