101 on Kreg pocket jig

[lwhughes149]

I got a Kreg pocket jig for Christmas, per request and was wondering if someone would offer a few suggestions on its use for faceframes. I have instructions but instructions from the experts often helps best.

 

[dancam]

Go to Woodworking information and plans for woodworkers: WOOD Magazine, there is a free downloadable tutorial on pocket ho;e joinery that is really good.

Dan C.

 

[DaveO]

Lorraine, I just recently got one also, and it is very simple to use. Just clamp the jig on the end of one of the face frame boards, spacing the 1 or 2 guides evenly on the stock. Clamp that board down so it doesn't move. Drill with the provided bit and stop collar set at the correct distance for the stock thickness. You might have to extract the bit a few times to clear the waste. Once your pockets are drilled, use the clamp again to line up the two pieces to be joined, use a little glue if desire and screw them together.
There may be a few more details that I didn't mention because I have the mid-range kit, not the Rocket or the Master pack and they could have their own idiosyncrasies.

Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

Lets see, if you got the face frame clamp, use it when screwing the boards together. If you didn't get it, you can get buy with an F clamp, but the face frame clamp is a lot faster.

Personally, I try to put pocket holes where the are unobtrusive. On the outside of cabinets when they are going to but against a wall or something, and on the inside otherwise. Sometimes, it is wise to clamp the face frame assembly down before beginning to drive your screws to keep the frame from shifting DAMHIKT.

Normally, I use the 1 1/4 screws for 3/4 material. The screws come in both coarse and fine. I can't remember which is for what, and I have both, but most times I just use the fine ones.

Make some test joints in some scrap at right angle joints to be sure you don't have your bit depth too deep. If it is too deep you can sometimes have the point of the screw come through, again, DAMHIKT. :roll:

Lastly, if you break your step drill bit, only buy the Kreg brand. I dropped the drill and broke my original one, ordered three from WW supply (not Kreg) and all 3 broke the same day. I have since bought 2 Kreg bits and still have them both.

Other than that, a little glue as Dave suggests, and you will be cooking with gas.

 

[lwhughes149]

Thanks for the help, I look forward to using my new toy.

 

[junquecol]

The cheapest way to buy KREG step bits is to go to Lowes and buy the single hole jig (mini) for $19.99. Comes with jig, step bit, and stop collar. Usually bit by itself costs more.

 

[cpowell]

Lorraine there is a short learning curve to getting the face frame joints to align acceptably. I have had problems in the past with the joint pulling up as the screw is tightened so that the outer face is just a hair higher than the face with the hole drilled in it. Good solid clamps seem to take care of it. I did NOT buy their clamp with my jig.

I like the Kreg jig a lot.

Chuck

 

[toolferone]

Lorraine, As the instructions state, use a high speed (2500rpm) corded drill for the hole drilling, and as soon as the bit is in the guide get it up to full speed before you contact the wood. This will help with bit breakage and a cleaner hole. If the bit is set to the correct depth then there will NOT be an exit hole on the peice after you drill it. I am a big beliver in the Kreg jig. My first project was the headboard below that has 98 screws in it and was cut and assembled in 3 hours.

 

[lwhughes149]

Tom, the bed is awesome. I expect to become very friendly with my new jig, as soon as next week. I have the jig that came with two hole application and one drill bit and one clamp. I learn by putting the hand to the wood. So expect to hear from me again and I will have questions and pics. I went looking for a site that would explain and maybe have pics but couldn't find that fee download.