I need 1/4" oak plywood for a project (inside panels for desk). I found 5.2 mm at Lowe's, when checking with Ask Jeeves, i find that it is smaller than 1/4". 5mm = 3/16th and 6mm = just under 1/4". I think this will work but I appreciate knowledge from the group. BTW, the plywood looks very good. I will use 3/4" stile and rails with cente being cut 1/4" with stile and rail cutter on router table. These are the sides of a oak desk.
1/4" plywood
- Thread starter lwhughes149
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M
McRabbet
Lorraine,
The 5.2 mm plywood should work fine as long as the field (panel size) is not too large. It sounds like you are going to make rails and stiles to hold the plywood into a panel -- since the 1/4" cut for the panel in each rail and stile is oversized, I would recommend putting some foam into the slot to keep the panel from rattling. I've made my own pseudo-Space Balls for this by using a utility knife to cut off 1/2" pieces of 1/2" diameter foam Backer Rod (found in the weatherstripping department aisle at Lowe's). I stuff these into the groove every 5-6" and the panel won't rattle. I'd also recommend pre-finishing the panel insert (at least any stain and sealer coat) before you insert the panel and begin glue-up.
The 5.2 mm plywood should work fine as long as the field (panel size) is not too large. It sounds like you are going to make rails and stiles to hold the plywood into a panel -- since the 1/4" cut for the panel in each rail and stile is oversized, I would recommend putting some foam into the slot to keep the panel from rattling. I've made my own pseudo-Space Balls for this by using a utility knife to cut off 1/2" pieces of 1/2" diameter foam Backer Rod (found in the weatherstripping department aisle at Lowe's). I stuff these into the groove every 5-6" and the panel won't rattle. I'd also recommend pre-finishing the panel insert (at least any stain and sealer coat) before you insert the panel and begin glue-up.
You know exactly what I am doing and thanks for the suggestion about the foam, I will pick that up when I pick up the plywood. What are the concerns when you don't stain the panels before assembly? Hadn't thought of that, I didn't do that with the panel doors for my kitchen project. Thanks
Lorraine, I have used this plywood for a many a door. No problems. Try to do as posted about space foam/space balls and finishing.:icon_thum
I have forgotten or gotten in too big of a rush:embaresse and not pre finished the panels. You just have to stay on top of the process so that if the panels shift you don't end up with a exposed unfinished line.
I have forgotten or gotten in too big of a rush:embaresse and not pre finished the panels. You just have to stay on top of the process so that if the panels shift you don't end up with a exposed unfinished line.
M
McRabbet
Lorraine,
Mac answered it for me -- if you do not pre-finish, there is a chance that unfinished areas of the panel may show if the panel shifts slightly.
Mac answered it for me -- if you do not pre-finish, there is a chance that unfinished areas of the panel may show if the panel shifts slightly.
Thanks Rob, now I have a use for the excess quantity of backer rod I have and can save whatever the cost is of space balls :wsmile:
Thanks guys, I thought I had gotten an :dontknow:at Lowes when the man told me he had 1/4" oak plywood. I didn't realize they had 1/4" plywood in oak. He proved me wrong when I got to the store. I will pick it up on tuesday and start an oak desk for my daughter.
If you want the slot made by the cope and stick bit to match your plywood better, you can get a narrower cutter - at least you can for many brands. MLCS and others sell them.
If only one side of the panel will show, you may also want to use wedges to push the plywood towards the side that will show.
I think this would work better with oak than maple or cherry. A gap tends to look like a dark line but oak has so much figure I do not think the small gap will be a big deal.
Jim
If only one side of the panel will show, you may also want to use wedges to push the plywood towards the side that will show.
I think this would work better with oak than maple or cherry. A gap tends to look like a dark line but oak has so much figure I do not think the small gap will be a big deal.
Jim
T
toolferone
I have always glued my 1/4 ply panels into the door frames. Is there any reason this doesn't work?
Lorraine,
when ever your dealing with metric dimensioned stock remember that every millimeter is the equivalent of .039" .So if you take your 5.2 mm plywood,5.2 times .039= .2028,that ends up giving you a .048" gap which is actually good size even if you use some space balls or wedges in the rail.You will have to do something to keep it from rattling around.They do make a set of router bits for metric plywood but I can't remember who I got them from.It was at the Charlotte Show.They cover all the sizes from 1/4 to 3/4" metrically:no: speaking of course.
when ever your dealing with metric dimensioned stock remember that every millimeter is the equivalent of .039" .So if you take your 5.2 mm plywood,5.2 times .039= .2028,that ends up giving you a .048" gap which is actually good size even if you use some space balls or wedges in the rail.You will have to do something to keep it from rattling around.They do make a set of router bits for metric plywood but I can't remember who I got them from.It was at the Charlotte Show.They cover all the sizes from 1/4 to 3/4" metrically:no: speaking of course.
I used a tongue and groove bit set with my doors for the cherry kitchen I put together a couple of years ago and they worked very well. I didn't use space balls and didn't have a problem. Let's discuss wedges and glue. I didn't use space balls as I said and I didn't glue them, should I? Also, tell me more about wedges. I worked today on preparing the stiles and rails so I am moving right along. I pick up the 5/2mm panel of plywood in the mext couple of days.
In the future, it would be best to obtain 1/4 mdf core plywood. This is a true 1/4 thick. I also feel that prefinishing interior panels, especially plywood, is a myth and amounts to added work and wasted time. I worked for a cabinet maker in Wake forest who has been building custom cabinets and cabinet doors for other shops. Never once did we pre-finish panels, plywood or solid. In 35 years of building, which amounts to alot of doors, he never once had a door come back where the finish showed up raw under the stiles or rails. Thats enough proof for me. Just my .02.
I agree with you Tom, I built kitchen cabinets in my old house, which had big humidity changes because it was old and drafty, and chose to use plywood panels. They were glued in and ten years there were absolutely no problems.
Jimmy:mrgreen:
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Explain mdf core plywood please? And how does it differ from regular plywood?
MDF core plywood is MDF with a veneer of your choice attached. Veneer core plywood (what you normally find) is sheets of veneer laid up at opposing angles to each other and then topped with the desired wood species veneer. MDF core plywood starts with a cheap substrate so they don't have to skimp on the thickness. Veneer core ply is subjected to the cost of the wood veneer and is often "nominal sized" to save the materials.
Dave
Dave
I used mdf core cherry plywood for a kitchen island recently. The 1/4 thickness worked well but in this case I was not using a cope and stick bit so I could have adjusted the thickness of the dado.
I have used so called 1/4 veneered plywood before with cope and stick bits but it does leave a gap. Finish may fill it but there is still a gap. On painted doors, I caulk it before finishing. On clear, I leave it and let the finish stick the panel in place. I've done this on oak which to me is not a real pristine kind of wood - more character than fussy.
I normally do not deliberately glue the panel in place when clear finishing because that tends to get glue on the panel. It makes the door stronger, however, and you do not worry about wood movement with plywood (at least I do not). I always finish solid wood panels prior to glue-up, however. I have seen unfinished edges and do not want any on my work.
If I wanted to minimize the gaps on the side of the door that shows the most, I would wedge it from the back prior to appication of the first coat or two of finish. The finish should stick it in this position. That maximizes the gap on the other side, however. If you want to get real tricky, you could cut a little shim and drop it in the groove to close the gap. I do not find the gap to be that big of a deal, however.
Jim
I have used so called 1/4 veneered plywood before with cope and stick bits but it does leave a gap. Finish may fill it but there is still a gap. On painted doors, I caulk it before finishing. On clear, I leave it and let the finish stick the panel in place. I've done this on oak which to me is not a real pristine kind of wood - more character than fussy.
I normally do not deliberately glue the panel in place when clear finishing because that tends to get glue on the panel. It makes the door stronger, however, and you do not worry about wood movement with plywood (at least I do not). I always finish solid wood panels prior to glue-up, however. I have seen unfinished edges and do not want any on my work.
If I wanted to minimize the gaps on the side of the door that shows the most, I would wedge it from the back prior to appication of the first coat or two of finish. The finish should stick it in this position. That maximizes the gap on the other side, however. If you want to get real tricky, you could cut a little shim and drop it in the groove to close the gap. I do not find the gap to be that big of a deal, however.
Jim
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