- Status
J
jeff...
It's pegboard, my cordless drill, a 1/4 brad tip drill bit with a collar stop for me :-D.
I built one based on something I saw in a woog mag.
I had contemplated pegboard wut figurede it would get buggered up by the time I got to the last hole.
Took a piece of oak and laid the holes out and drilled with the drillpress.The key is to drill the hole a little smaller than a guid busing for your plung router.
Make the jig as long as the longest cabinet you are going to make.
Add a cleat at the bottom and rip it right down the center.
You will have a jig for either side of your cabinets and spacing is already the same for easch sourse of holes ebne if you are off.
Whatever shlef supports you use make sure you can always get the clips and a bit for them.
There is more than one size, both 1/4" and I think 5 mm for euro style cabinets.
Making the and using the jug is a no-brainer.
I still have the jig it stores easilky in the shop.hanging upside down from one of the cabinets I made the jig for.
I found a link for the jig I made.
WWA Shelf Pin Jig
Last edited:
I've been making and using a 5 to 6 inch wide strip of 1/2" plywood with a series of 5/8" holes drilled every inch and a 1/4" hole centered 1" above and below the last. To use it I clamp or screw the jig to the cabinet (had to screw it in a large cabinet when the request for adjustable shelves came after installation):BangHead:
To use, I chuck a 1/4" spiral bit in my plunge router with a 5/8" guide collar, set the depth of cut. You must remember to add 1/2" to allow for the plywood. Then I just go along putting the guide bushing in each hole and plunging the router. The spiral bit cuts very clean holes. With the 1/4" holes at the ends, I can use a 1/4" drill bit or 1/4" centering tool to advance the jig for a longer set of holes.:eusa_danc
I must say I discovered the first one I made did not have the holes drilled exactly 1 inch apart after having used it for a whole set of cabinets - this was not a problem because as long as all four sets matched, no one would notice that one set of holes was really 1 & 1/16" above or below the other.
I now use a small double square to lay out the line for drilling. The blade is 1" wide, I set the square to draw a line the length of the plywood, then use the width to draw cross lines at 1" intervals.
In use there is no destruction of the jig since only the guide busing touches the plywood.
A nice touch is to go over the holes with a reamer to very slightly flare the outside of each hole. The spiral bit cut cuts such clean holes, it can be difficult to get shelf pins started in the hole. ;-)
To use, I chuck a 1/4" spiral bit in my plunge router with a 5/8" guide collar, set the depth of cut. You must remember to add 1/2" to allow for the plywood. Then I just go along putting the guide bushing in each hole and plunging the router. The spiral bit cuts very clean holes. With the 1/4" holes at the ends, I can use a 1/4" drill bit or 1/4" centering tool to advance the jig for a longer set of holes.:eusa_danc
I must say I discovered the first one I made did not have the holes drilled exactly 1 inch apart after having used it for a whole set of cabinets - this was not a problem because as long as all four sets matched, no one would notice that one set of holes was really 1 & 1/16" above or below the other.
I now use a small double square to lay out the line for drilling. The blade is 1" wide, I set the square to draw a line the length of the plywood, then use the width to draw cross lines at 1" intervals.
In use there is no destruction of the jig since only the guide busing touches the plywood.
A nice touch is to go over the holes with a reamer to very slightly flare the outside of each hole. The spiral bit cut cuts such clean holes, it can be difficult to get shelf pins started in the hole. ;-)
I clamp a strip of steel with holes already punched in it from the BORG. Mount a bushing in the plunge router that fits snug, then punch away.
M
McRabbet
I'm afraid that I took the easy route and purchased a plexiglass jig with a self-centering bit for less than $25 (before discount) at Klingspor's Woodworking Store. It works very well and has paid for itself already.
Rob
Rob
I bought the same or similar jig as Rob, plexiglas with a 1/4 vix bit for about $22 from Woodcraft. Have done them manually on the drill press and get off every time.:cry:
The same jig as Travis P. and Rob at Klingspore. I went ahead and sprung for the 5mm bit as well. The 5mm bit fits the same plexiglass template. The 5mm is less noticable than th 1/4" and I found that it tears out less. The cool thing about the jig is it is perfectly symetrical so you can flip it to the back side of the shelf with no worries.
Yep, plexiglas jig and 1/4" self centering bit. Can't be beat for $25.
I also didn't drill all the holes either. Decided where the shelves were to go and only drilled those holes. If the shelves ever need moving I'll just drill the additional holes. it also makes a very nice installation for bookcases where it looks like the shelves are permanent (if you don't look too close).
In my house once the shelves are set and stuff is put on them they never seem to need moving again.
I also didn't drill all the holes either. Decided where the shelves were to go and only drilled those holes. If the shelves ever need moving I'll just drill the additional holes. it also makes a very nice installation for bookcases where it looks like the shelves are permanent (if you don't look too close).
In my house once the shelves are set and stuff is put on them they never seem to need moving again.
i bought a "gizmo 32" woodcraft had them on special for $ 35 after christmas a few years ago. I had been looking for a simple solution and thought it would be a great addition. ....uh I haven't used it yet though but it's reall neat.
Gizmo 32 Boring Jig 5mm - from McFeely's
Gizmo 32 Boring Jig 5mm - from McFeely's
- Status
