Yet another dumbbell screw Moxon vise

[pop-pop]

Ask Dr. Google about Moxon vises made using dumbbell screws and he will find many. Here is my variation using a Gold’s Gym dumbbell handle from Walmart for less than $7. First you need to cut off the rubber grip, saw it into 2 halves, and drill a 5/16” cross hole near the cut end.

This back view shows a handwheel and the clamp-down lug:

The jaw liner is 1/16” “crubber” from an auto store for around $8:

To test the vise, I made four storage drawers out of PWW (prime white wood aka resawn SPF 2x4):

Being of tails first persuasion, here is gang-sawing a pair of tail boards:

This vise has a clamping ledge to hold a tail board for transfer:

Using F-clamps for this was awkward. I plan on making a clamping bar and will post it later.

Anyhow, with some wood scraps and less than $20, one can build a useful dovetailing vise.

 

[TENdriver]

Pop-pop,

Had no idea there was anything posted about using the threaded dumbbells to make a Moxon.

I built a couple of Moxons with a few different dumbbells, and also settled on the exact same type as the most practical.

I didn’t put it to extended use. I was a bit concerned about the durability of the threaded nuts and I never tracked down any replacement nuts to keep the vise going if an original set were to wear out.

Thanks for posting about yours.

 

[mdbuntyn]

I used the same Gold's dumbbells for my mine. I left my dumbells full-length because all I have is a hacksaw, and ain't nobody got time for that. I also bought a third dumbbell so that I could use the extra nuts as locking nuts on the back side of the rear jaw.

 

[pop-pop]

You may need an “adult” hacksaw. These high tension hack saws are fairly new on the market. There are other brands too. I didn’t pay heed but I’m sure it was well under a minute to hack that mild steel screw in two. Need a quality blade too.

 

[Mike Davis]

Amazon.com : TOOGOO(R) 2x 1″ standard barbell spinlock collars screw clamp dumbbell bar weight lifting : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : TOOGOO(R) 2x 1″ standard barbell spinlock collars screw clamp dumbbell bar weight lifting : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

NEVERMIND, this is 25 mm and won't fit a 1 inch bar.

 

[pop-pop]

Mentioning one more detail. The screw is attached to the chop via a 1/4” brass rod in a blind hole through the 5/16” hole drilled in the screw. I tapped each rod’s end 10-24 so that it could be removed for repairs. The washer is HDPE machined from a cheap cutting board.

 

[mdbuntyn]

but I’m sure it was well under a minute to hack that mild steel screw in two.

I didn't realize that they were mild steel, though in hindsight, I should have known based on the price. I guess I'll give it a try

 

[cmboggs]

Is there any chance you could take a few more photos of the 'cut' end, with the cross hole, of the dum bell? I think I understand how it attaches to the other side of the vise, but just like to be sure.

Great set-up!

 

[pop-pop]

Here are some more pix:
Chop and screw assembly:

I used a 1” Forstner for the holes.

I added the steel washers before I found that I needed the HDPE spacers to make the nuts unscrew more easily. The clamping lugs should have been a bit longer.

1/4” brass rod 2-1/2” to 3” long with outside end tapped 10-24:

The screw has a 5/16” cross hole like 1/2” from the cut end.

‘

 

[Dreuxgrad]

Nice job, oh wise vise man!

 

[DavidK]

Thanks for sharing! Using dumbell screws is a great idea that I had not seen before. Your version looks great!

 

[cmboggs]

I understand the purpose of the brass rod inserted through the cut end of the dumb bell, however I am not sure I get the point of the outside end being tapped 10-24. Is that just to help with assembly/disassembly?

Sorry to trouble you with so many questions.

 

[pop-pop]

I understand the purpose of the brass rod inserted through the cut end of the dumb bell, however I am not sure I get the point of the outside end being tapped 10-24. Is that just to help with assembly/disassembly?

Sorry to trouble you with so many questions.

I try to make my vises repairable. The brass rod is in a blind hole thus inserting a screw into the tapped hole enables one to get purchase to pull the rod out. BTW, I had to pull one of the rods to drill the screw hole a bit deeper.

Questions in a forum like this are necessary, not trouble.

 

[cmboggs]

Thanks again.

I like your 'repairable' approach towards design. This sounds a lot better then my 'epoxy it and hope...' approach.

 

[Hmerkle]

pop-pop - have you considered (or have you seen) a version where the ends of the screw does not stick out?
(in other words, the screw turns and the "nut" is the driver" having been "pinned" in place, much like the rear chop in your version...)

 

[pop-pop]

pop-pop - have you considered (or have you seen) a version where the ends of the screw does not stick out?
(in other words, the screw turns and the "nut" is the driver" having been "pinned" in place, much like the rear chop in your version...)

First, the ends of the screw have to stick out either in the front or in the back. I prefer the screw sticking out in the back. Here is a larger and more complicated Moxon of my design where the screws turn that I posted a few years ago.

 

[Hmerkle]

First, the ends of the screw have to stick out either in the front or in the back. I prefer the screw sticking out in the back. Here is a larger and more complicated Moxon of my design where the screws turn that I posted a few years ago.
View attachment 186125

That is EXACTLY what I was thinking - forgot you did that.
So you are saying this was more complicated... why?
Because the screws stick out the back, or was it the hardware or???

 

[pop-pop]

That is EXACTLY what I was thinking - forgot you did that.
So you are saying this was more complicated... why?
Because the screws stick out the back, or was it the hardware or???

Here is a link to that thread:

ball-bearing Moxon vise

Here is yet another Moxon style vise with several unique design points. Seven of these were built last weekend in a Triangle Woodworkers Association workshop led my me using my design. This vise features four ball-bearings and Acme screws and I'll try to describe the design and the thinking...

www.ncwoodworker.net

That vise has over $75 worth of wood, Acme screws, nuts, bearings, handles, etc. and will hold a 24” carcase side. Super smooth action though.

 

[Hmerkle]

Thanks for the link - I remember reading your post about that!

 

[ste6168]

I made one of those a while back also. I like that your screws stick on the back, rather than the front. I had a welder friend weld plates onto the back of my screws, and I countersunk holes to secure them into the vice. It works fine, though the long screws can be cumbersome.