Workshop ideas

[Gofor]

After working out of my garage for 10 years, finally bit the bullet and now have a shed:



http://

Next steps are flooring and electric. Any suggestions as to best floor for a woodworking shop? This will be a work-in-progress for a while depending on available time/budget, but need to empty the garage and start using it for its designed purpose!!

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[Obxwoody]

Mark can I pry as to how much money you have tied up in your new shed so far? I could use a little more space myself, and I was curious. That looks almost exactly like what I had in mind. I'm not even sure if I'd have to have a foundation poured or not... as for flooring I was just thinking of osb or plywood...easy to replace if need be and not expensive or time intensive to lay... I'm sure there are other opinions and a ton more experience than I have to offer

 

[junquecol]

http://
but need to empty the garage and start using it for its designed purpose!!

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Looks like you need to empty workshop and start using for designed purpose:rotflm:. I see too much non woodworking stuff in there already.

 

[JohnnyR]

Mark, nothing better than solid wood! I put down Barricade, formerly known as OVRX, over concrete and couldn't be happier. However, just looking at the BORG's, they don't seem to carry it anymore. See dricore as an alternative. It's OSB t&g panels over an insulation that also acts as a cushion. I put down 3 coats of poly and it's great. If I had to do it over I might paint it white first for light and so you can find those pieces you eventually drop. Since you already have a subfloor, if you don't need more insulation and it's good & tight quality, you could just slap some finish on it. I'd first look around and see if you can scrounge up some regular wood flooring.

 

[JimD]

My wife and I put t&g oak flooring that was 5/16 thick in her lake house before she sold it. We got it for $1/ft2 at Southeastern Salvage. They are a pain in not being able to come up with more material than what they then have but if they have enough of what you want, they have good prices. The thin stuff could maybe be sanded once but was prefinished so once stapled down it was done. Kind of fancy for a shop but it would work good and it's hard to beat $1/ft2.

I like OSB walls skimmed with drywall mud and painted white. I would run wiring and insulate first.

 

[Gofor]

If I can find something at $1/ft2 I would be happy. So far most of what I have priced ((including 1/2" BC ply, etc) has come in more than that. Looks like I need to find a good salvage outlet that's not too far away. I need about 360sf if I do the entire floor.

I definitely plan on the electric going in before any wall/ceiling work, as it will all have to be accessible for the code inspector. My electrical feed to the shed will be less than 50', so I should be able to go with #6 wire. Right now am planning on running 4 wires of #6 THHN through buried conduit for a 60 amp service.

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[KenOfCary]

Both Big Box stores still carry OVRX, it is just Special Order. It would be overkill in this shed though. It is meant to go over a concrete floor. Nothing better over concrete for making it easy to walk on. Dricore is rigid plastic, definitely not the same comfort level.

That said, for this shed with a wooden floor already I'd just use some T&G Plywood. If you want to get fancy go with a cheap engineered laminate wood, but again, this is a shop not a showcase.

No real need for fancy.

 

[Mike Davis]

My old farm house had t&g pine floors, been there over 150 years and still looked great.

if I wanted to build something to last, either that or quarter sawn oak is what I'd use.

 

[JimD]

Southeastern has 6 stores but they are pretty widely scattered. They must buy odd lots of material - leftovers. They will ask other stores if they have stock but won't go back to the manufacturer if they are out. I didn't see any stores in NC and the only one in SC is in Columbia. There are a couple in Tenn. They don't run many adds because they run out of material a lot. You pretty much have to go ready to make a decision and haul it off (although if you buy it they will hold it but I found out that process wasn't foolproof but they made it right). If their prices weren't low they wouldn't be worth the aggravation. They also have unfinished 3/4 oak in lower grades pretty cheap. Worth checking out if you are in the area of one but I don't know if I'd drive far just-in-case they had something I wanted. They've always had some of the thin oak when I've been there but they sell both solid oak and engineered. On a bad day you might have to buy engineered or take a color that isn't your first choice. Prices stay low. Special stapler I needed for installation was about $75 (you could do it with regular tools but the special one is much easier). You can't use a regular flooring nailer, the material is too thin. The stuff we bought was "Bruce" brand with a warranty on the finish.

We also used flooring from there in a couple additions we had put on the house last year. We wanted natural finish Oak in 3/4 thickness. They sell it but didn't have any. So we picked out maple and paid for it. Before I got there with a trailer they sold it to somebody else. Supposedly the guy who waited on us didn't get it in the computer right. But they gave us wider Hickory (3 1/4 inch) for the same price. I think it was about $2/ft2 versus about $3.25 normally. I later had to pay their full price for some more for the other area. But that was still cheaper than I could find Hickory anywhere else. My wife likes the Hickory better and it goes with our informal house better. It is also very hard and quite heavy. Should hold up.

 

[chris_goris]

Mark can I pry as to how much money you have tied up in your new shed so far? I could use a little more space myself, and I was curious. That looks almost exactly like what I had in mind. I'm not even sure if I'd have to have a foundation poured or not... as for flooring I was just thinking of osb or plywood...easy to replace if need be and not expensive or time intensive to lay... I'm sure there are other opinions and a ton more experience than I have to offer

I built this one for about $2700 complete.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51408&highlight=shed

 

[Charlie]

Mark, That's going to make you a great shop.

 

[Bas]

There's looks and there is function. Both matter. You definitely want a wooden floor of some kind, much easier on your feet. Lumber Liquidators has "utility oak" for a very good price for a really artisan look. Other wood flooring (e.g. pine) would be great as well.

Or, if you want to o cheaper, put down some plywood, and use the router with a straight bit to make shallow grooves and give the appearance of planks.

I'd put some sort of finish on the floor. It doesn't have to be pristine/ glossy, just enough to seal things and make cleanup easier.

 

[Gofor]

Definitely going with function over looks, especially for the inside. I want something I can sweep easily, but not too slick when I get sawdust on it. So far, the remarks here have lead me to look at some more options, so hopefully it will come together.

Thank You all for your inputs.

Go

 

[Jim M.]

Mark,
In my last shop I had VCT tile with a plywood under layment. I liked it very much, was good on the feet, but took some work to keep it clean. My new shop has concrete floors and I hate them. I've been thinking of making my own plank flooring from birch plywood to lay over the concrete. Google plywood plank flooring and see some cool stuff people are doing. Jim

 

[KenOfCary]

Not sure how it stacks up cost wise, but Agricultural Supply houses carry horse stall rubber. These are large interlocking sheets of very hard rubber. Might work for you. It stands up to a 1000 lb horse pacing back and forth on it and peeing on it so is pretty strong stuff - should hold up fine to machinery.

 

[Gofor]

Not sure how it stacks up cost wise, but Agricultural Supply houses carry horse stall rubber. These are large interlocking sheets of very hard rubber. Might work for you. It stands up to a 1000 lb horse pacing back and forth on it and peeing on it so is pretty strong stuff - should hold up fine to machinery.

I am using one from Tractor Supply as my truck bed liner. If I get them on sale there its about $1.25 per sf, so may be a player. For their normal price ($1.66/sf) I can get some good laminate flooring. Not sure how long it takes for the rubber smell to dissipate, though. The ones from Tractor Supply don't interlock and aren't too square on the edges but I could make them work.

They are pretty much indestructible.

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[thsb]

i had leftover laminate flooring that was .68 sq/ft (actually it was left over because i put it down and a year later when i wasn't freaking out about money i decided i didn't like it in our basement and put in some higher quality stuff that was a lighter color). I repurposed it in the workshop to go over the concrete floor and it has been great. easy to clean and the machines roll nicely on it. the padding was extra ( about 25.00/100 ft ) but worth it.

 

[tri4sale]

Pergo has outlet center in Garner right at I40 / Hwy 70 that usually has some good prices if you go with laminate floor. Just be sure it stays dry in the shop, water and laminate floors don't do good together.

 

[Gofor]

Ended up getting some pine utilty/flooring plywood (one surface is knot free) and am in the process of installing it. So, having gone this route, any suggestions on sealing/painting it?

I tend to go with latex for most stuff, and have never had really good luck with floor enamel. That said, going on bare wood, it may be a more durable coating. Anybody have pros or cons, or somethiing else like deck sealer, etc that I should consider?

The VTC that Woody mentioned could be in the future, but will push the budget too far at present.

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[scsmith42]

Mark, your new shop is looking great! Re finish for the floor, Rubio Monocoat is an oil finish that is easy to touch up.


Scott