Workbench Top Construction

[AnotherJim]

I have some 1" thick rough-sawn oak boards. If I wanted to build a 3"-thick 15" x 70" workbench top from them, I think I could do it one of two ways: thickness plane to 3/4", then (1) cut 20 3" wide strips, turn them on their sides, and laminate into the desired top; or (2) cut 8 6" wide and 4 3" wide strips and laminate them, staggered, in 4 layers to get the desired top. The latter would seem to be easier. Or, would it? I'd appreciate advice and comments. Thanks.

 

[Mike Davis]

I would look at the end grain and determine which orientation has the most strength and stability.

 

[mquan01]

option #1 here

 

[Graywolf]

Option 1 as well

 

[Rwe2156]

Mine is built like #2, but #1 is going to be easier.

Be sure you've got the grain all oriented the same direction!!

 

[Wilsoncb]

For option 1, I would not pre-determine the thickness to be 3/4”. I always take what each board gives me to minimize waste. I plane down to flat and flaw free and typically get between 15/16“ and 13/16”. It might save you 1 board, or allow a wider bench with the same number of boards.

 

[Martin Roper]

I bought a cheap 36x60" "butcher block style" kitchen table at a Habitat ReStore that I'm going to repurpose as a computer desk for my wife. I paid $35 or $40 for it. It appears to be 100% soft maple and about 5/4 in thickness.

This isn't it, but it looks just like it

This one is on Craigslist for $100 but I've seen them cheaper.

With nice legs and some bracing underneath I think it would make a serviceable bench.

 

[Martin Roper]

I repurposed my old workbench top to be the top of a rolling shop cabinet I made. The top was made out of a sheet of 3/4" ply and oak flooring laminated together which is about 1-1/2" thick. I milled some more oak as edging which you can see of you look closely at the pic.

Pay no attention to the mess. It was only temporary. There is a different one there now.

 

[Bill Clemmons]

I built my top out of Maple using option #1 more than 30 years ago. Rock solid. If you want to make sure the boards never separate, run some 1/4" or 3/8" threaded rod through the sections about every 16-18". Then use a washer and nut on each end to pull them tight. Do this before you apply the final board on each side.