What is the best way to attach a table top?

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cyclopentadiene

cyclopentadiene

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I am building a side table with an "elevated" top (using stretchers under the table. The plan I have uses screws and glue to attach the top. In my case, the top is a single walnut board 15 1/2" wide by 36" long and 1" thick. I am afraid if I glue, movement could cause the piece to split over time and if I just use screws, the top may be separated if the table is lifted via the top. Also although it would be on the bottom, either the screws or plugs would show.

Would biscuit joints and only glue around the biscuit work?

Any thoughts on the best wat to attach are appreciated.
 
Bas

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
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A picture would help to better describe what you mean by "elevated" top. Is it something like this?
1527620921_6613bda665.jpg


From lumberjocks.com:
The top is attached via pan head screws in over sized holes to account for wood movement. There is plenty of wood in the top to grab hold of as it’s about 3/4” thick, you can’t see it in these pics but the top is like an upside down raised panel (I think there is a pic in part 1 of this series) which a) gives the screws something to bite into, and b) enhances the floating effect. I designed the stretchers using the bezier curve plugin for sketchup.
Click to expand...

I would think screws by themselves are strong enough to lift the table. Or just tell people to lift them by the stretchers instead :)
 
bobby g

bobby g

Bob
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You intuition is correct... you should not mount the top in such a way as to not allow the wood to move or it will crack as you predicted. Assuming the stretchers to attach to are oriented across the grain, I suggest passing 3 screws through each of them into the top. One on the center line and one about 1 1/2" in from each edge. The holes for the screws near the edge need to be slots equal in length to about 3 screw diameters (for a #8 screw, this will be about 1/2") and 3/16" across. For the edge screws, center a washer head screw in the slot and take care to tighten the screws just snug... so that the wood can move. You can torque down more on the center one. Be sure to drill a pilot hole in the top at each screw location.

Hope this helps,

bobby g
 
cyclopentadiene

cyclopentadiene

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Thanks for the advise. The photo in the reply by Bas is a similar table.

The plan I am using has two stretchers that go across the grain. I will try the three screw approach, I will post photos as the project progresses. I have the top finished with the 45 degree bevel edge along the bottom. I have enough of the wide walnut to build two tables. I am thinking about building one with top and bottom in walnut and a second with a walnut top and maple bottom as in the plans (they used tiger maple which is a little too expensive for my taste, especially 8/4 stock for the legs. I already have some left over figured ambrosia maple in 8/4 and 4/4 from a previous project.
 
bobby g

bobby g

Bob
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You could also apply glue out from the center screw an inch or so in each direction but I don't think it's really needed. Be sure to post some pictures as you progress. If you haven't posted an introduction yet, now's a good time.

bobby g
 
Jim Wallace

Jim Wallace

jimwallacewoodturning.com
Jim
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Hey Jeff,

The two most accepted methods of attaching a table top to an apron or warping rails are using elongated screw holes as Bobby described, or using little spring clips that screw to the bottom of the table top and then register in a slot that you cut near the top of the apron or warping rail. You can get them from Woodcraft; just look for Table Top Fasteners.

Jim
 
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